Christy Slip Dress + Kate Bias top HACK - Just Patterns

The Pattern
To make this dress I used the Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns, with the front neckline of the Kate Bias Top also by Just Patterns.

I've made the bias top THREE TIMES, and it's just a balanced, well engineered design, so it knew it would translate well into a dress.

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A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin) on Oct 1, 2019 at 4:41pm PDT

I'm wearing the dress with my me-made leather jacket, which you can read about here.

Pattern Hack
Because these two patterns are from the same company, this was a super easy hack.

I lay the Kate Bias top over the pattern for the Christy Slip, which both have the same width and shape from the side notch, which is conveniently positioned in the same spot.

I then simply traced the Kate Bias Top neckline onto the Christy Slip Dress pattern and cut out the modified pattern.

The Fabric
A glorious silk satin from Tessuti Fabrics.
It has a 22mm weight, and is the colour 'almond'.
Tessuti always stock the most beautiful silk satins, and I'm yet to find better quality elsewhere.

The fabric is cut on the bias, interfaced at the necklines with silk organza and fully lined with a poly georgette.

The Details
This is a classic, straightforward dress, and I love adding extra details that make a dress more wearable and more precious.

I FULLY LINED the dress, and FRENCHED my seams.

Instead of under-stitching the neckline with a machine, I PICK-STITCHED the neckline on the inside of the garment. This gave me so much more control, and allowed me to reach spots on the neckline that you normally can't get to with a machine.

Narrow bias cut SPAGHETTI STRAPS hold the dress up at the shoulders.

I finished the dress with a delicate NARROW HEM that looks so polished on bias cut fabric.

Neckline Tip
To stabilise the neckline, I forewent the iron-on stay tape and used the pattern pieces to cut out a facing of silk organza (about 8cm in length).

Silk satin cut on the bias is a tricky textile to deal with, and iron on interfacing, even stay tape, can distort the lovely drape of the bias fabric and the stiffness can show through to the outside of the garment.

Using silk organza, which is about 6momme (mm) in weight, gives the neckline structure, support and strength, without adding bulk and is invisible from the right side.

Just like regular interfacing, you attach it to the individual pattern pieces on the wrong side. I hand basted my organza facings along the necklines and side seams, and pinked the organza edges.

The finished result is a smooth, sharp neckline that doesn't pucker, pull, flip out or bulge. It's well worth the extra 15 minutes it might take to cut out and attach.

The Changes
I cut the pattern in a size 42 as the pattern was drafted with negative ease, and I wanted to make sure I allowed enough room for my lower body.

Aside from hacking the neckline from the Kate Top, there were no fit changes.

I added 18cm to the length at the hem, as I love silk in a midi length and the original hem sits just below the knee.

Final Thoughts
I love the proportions of this bias cut dress and I love how it can transition from a day look to a night time look, depending on the shoes or the accessories.

It's super comfortable, straight forward to make and surprisingly flattering to wear on this curvy frame.

I think I just found my new favourite pattern for summer!

Silk Cami - Kate Bias Top by Just Patterns

There has come a point in my life where I have realised that my dress sense is akin to that of a magpie. If it's bright and shiny, I want it on my body.

I'm ok with this.

The Pattern

Introducing my latest bright and shiny, the Kate Bias Top by Just Patterns
This is so beautifully cut and for some crazy reason, the pattern is only $3AUD. So actually, what are you waiting for.

This is my second time making this pattern and it's as good as I remember.

The Fabric

Luscious silk satin in a beautiful purple hue and 19mm weight, which I purchased from Home Craft Textiles.

I will never get over the feel and look of silk satin cut on the bias. It's just everything that is beautiful and wonderful about fabric and it soaks up colour like nothing else.

The Details

This bias top is free of darts, is cut on the bias and fully lined.

It is held at the shoulders with bias cut spaghetti straps and hemmed with a narrow hem.

It has a lovely soft V shaped neckline and is figure flattering but not form fitting.

Wearing with

And hey! My whole outfit is me-made! That's happening more and more these days and I find that so encouraging and exciting!

I've paired my silk cami with this self drafted sequinned skirt:

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A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin) on Jan 29, 2019 at 8:33pm PST

And my silk organza trench coat that I made using Simplicity 8554

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A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin) on Nov 29, 2018 at 7:17pm PST

Final Thoughts

A quick easy make, that looks and feels fancy and chic. This is my third silk cami and it will not be my last!

Misty Cami by 'Sew Altered Style' - The HACK-A-THON Blog Tour

NEW indie pattern company ALERT!

The talented Mac and Katie are the creatives behind the new pattern company 'Sew Altered Style' and they are kicking off their first pattern release with a 'Hack-A-Thon' blogger tour!
The concept is to take their new pattern, make a change (hack) big or small and have a bit of fun!

The Pattern

It's the Misty Cami and the first pattern released by Sew Altered Style.

This cami comes with four different views, which is made up of two different strap versions, two different back heights and the option of camisole or dress length.

The pattern ranges from sizes 0-30 and in addition, you also select between two cup size options, A/B or C/D. If you fall outside those sizes don't worry, the pattern comes with instructions on how to do a 'full bust adjustment'.

Sizing and View

I MADE View A (low back camisole) in a size 10 with the A/B cup(!) option.

For reference, my bra size varies from anywhere between D-EE depending on the brand and, like, how much cheese I've eaten.

The instructions get you to measure the width of your breasts at the widest point, and then the width of the upper breast. The variation in length determines what cup size you need, and I'm not sure why but the difference between the two measurements for me was small.

With the size 10 cut on the bias, the smaller bust option fit well, and I love a loose drape in a camisole. The bust darts sit a little low (which doesn't bother me), but this was a tester pattern and it has since been corrected on the official pattern.

Fabric

I used a stunning, saturated, chocolate silk satin that almost literally looks like melted chocolate.
This beautiful fabric was purchased from the wonderful people of The Cloth Shop in Ivanhoe

Details + Changes

This flattering, loose fitting pattern calls for light weight, drapey woven fabrics with the direction of the grain line following the selvage of the fabric.  Because I was making my cami out of silk, I decided to go a little extra and CUT ALL MY PIECES ON THE BIAS.
The neckline and the straps sit so well when cut on this angle, and I love how it makes the silk drape.

Instead of the regular hem and to accomodate the bias cut of the silk, I decided to finish the cami with a NARROW HEM.

I eliminated the FRONT CENTRE SEAM. The pattern gives you the option of a centre seam in the front, or to cut the front piece on the fold.

I also chose not to interface the facing pieces. When it comes to camisoles made of silk, I like both pieces of fabric to behave and drape the same, and I find the under-stitching on the neckline is enough to give structure and shape in a bias cut.

In addition to cutting my pieces on the bias, my PATTERN HACK was to change the shoulder straps to thin, BIAS CUT TIE STRAPS.
Not only does it look great, but it means you can adjust the length of your straps as you wear it, rather than in the construction stages of the garment.

Final Thoughts

It's incredibly satisfying to make something beautiful and clean and to be able to finish it in one sitting.
A camisole is such a classic wardrobe staple that can be paired with almost anything and for any occasion.

I love the fit and cut of this beautiful pattern, (which is 20% off with code MISTY20 until August 4)  and I'm very excited to see what else Sew Altered Style has for us in the future!

The Evie Bias Skirt - Tessuti Patterns

Hi friends, you know that mythical skirt pattern? That one that goes with everything, looks fantastic AND is easy to make?

Well you guys, you can stop looking because I FOUND IT.

The Pattern

It's the Evie Bias Skirt in View B by Tessuti Patterns.
It's a classic shape, cut on the bias and comes with two waistband finishes.

View A is finished with a bound waistline and side zipper opening, and View B is a pull-on version with a scalloped elasticised waist.

The Fabric

This stunning fabric is the most perfect silk satin with a 22mm weight from Tessuti Fabrics.
Honestly it's one of the most beautiful fabrics I've ever touched. It's soft, it's got the most beautiful drape, and it moves like running water.

You can see it in action below:

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🤔 THESE DAYS, if you make a new garment and you don’t do the #handmadehustle , do you even instagram? #profound . IN ANY CASE I just finished making up the #EvieBiasSkirt in a heavenly silk satin; both pattern and fabric from @tessutifabrics and let me tell you, it is TRUE LOVE 😍😍😍 . 👉 SWIPE To see this fabric in action. 💃🏻 It is so divine it looks like some sort of mixture of running water and melted gold. . 🎧 SONG is ‘Saw Her Standing There’ by The Beatles. I know every lyric but I employed IMMENSE self control so that you didn’t have to see my dancing/singing face. No one is ready for that #youarewelcome . FACT - my dad and I recently lit up the dance floor with this tune at my sisters wedding and it may or may not be immortalised on film. No one is safe. . . . #silk #silkskirt #biascut #fashion #silkslip #sew #sewing #sewersofinstagram #tessutipatterns #tessutifabrics #thebeatles #johnlennon #thehandmadehustle

A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin) on Feb 22, 2019 at 8:21pm PST

The Details

This skirt is cut on the bias for a loose but form flattering shape.

I chose View B for the waistband, which finishes the waistband with a scalloped edge elastic. This makes the skirt quick and easy to make as there are no zippers or buttons and can be all done in one sitting.

I french seamed the side seams for a polished finish, and hemmed the skirt with a delicate narrow hem.

I cut a size 12 but ended up taking in the side seams by about 4cm and, pinched out about 10cm from the just above the widest part of my hip up to the waistline.
The great thing about a bias cut though, is even if you cut it in a bigger size, the cut will still drape to your shape so it will never look boxy.

Worn With

I've paired my skirt with my me-made leather jacket, BurdaStyle #108B which you can read about here

This jacket happens to be lined with a stunning silk twill that I also bought from Tessuti about 9 years ago, so it seems fitting that I should wear it with this skirt.

Final Thoughts

This cut and this colour make for such a great 'sew-frosting-but-still-a-basic' staple in my wardrobe. The green acts as a neutral and goes so well with most colours and styles.
It can be dressed up with heals and a blouse, or kept casual with sneakers and a tee. I love how versatile it is, but how it elevates every look.

I'm definitely not over this pattern and I plan to make it again in all the colours.