Thursday, 20 June 2019

Pink Winter Coat - Burda 6845

Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin

There's something about making coats, isn't there?

They are such a labour of love, get so much use, and make you feel like you've really made something clever!

Introducing my latest make, my 2019 winter coat.

Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin


The Pattern

I used Burda 6845 in View A which is a slim-lined coat with a flap pockets, a lapel and a rear walking slit.

The Fabric

The outside of my coat is a beautiful fabric from Tessuti Fabrics made up of 50% wool and 50% mohair, with a weight of 570gsm. It is so soft and such a lovely pink and has such incredible warmth; a must for a winter coat!

I lined the coat with a silk dupion that I've had in my stash since the beginning of time. I love how it features different blocks of colour which compliment nicely with the coat fabric.

And did I carefully match up those squares of colour? Why yes, yes I did. Thanks for asking.

Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin

Notions

Buttons from Spotlight
Whisper-weft interfacing
Guterman thread no. 473
Uncovered shoulder pads doubled up.

The Details

I love how the LINING HAS A PLEAT at the centre back waist as well as at the base of the neck. It allows for extra movement when you're wearing your coat so that the lining doesn't rip or pull.

THE DRAFTING of BurdaStyle patterns is always so beautiful. Where they might lack in pattern instructions, they make up for in pattern details.
The princess seams flatter and shape the body, and the two piece sleeves naturally curve at the elbow and shape the arm.

I love the FLAP POCKETS which sit just at the right height, which I lined with liberty of london fabric for a little extra something.

I'm in love with the LENGTH OF THIS COAT. I had been day-dreaming for a while about a long coat, and this one hits the ankle at just the right point on my 5'4" frame.

I added thick, uncovered SHOULDER PADS to the coat and I love the balance and proportion it gives the finished look. Because of the structure and length of this coat, it absolutely needed a strong shoulder to balance the look.

The centre back of the coat features a WALKING VENT which is practical and polished.

The width and shaping of the COLLAR AND LAPELS is just right; not too bulky and with lovely sharp angles. I also added liberty fabric to the collar band for a little secret contrast.

Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin


The Buttonholes

One of the nicest techniques to do add to a jacket is bound buttonholes. It's what elevates a look from off the shelf to couture, and it's something you hardly see on a jacket anymore.

A bound buttonhole is the process of adding two 'lips' to make a place for your button to go through, rather than a slit wrapped tightly in thread. It definitely takes more time and requires a fair bit of concentration, but the end result is lovely and incredibly satisfying!  It's such a lovely way to treat yourself and your coat!

You can click here to follow my tutorial on how to make and face a bound buttonhole.

Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin

Changes

Before I even looked at patterns, I knew I wanted to make a midi length, oversized suit style coat that could be both formal, or dressed down with jeans and a tee.

This pattern comes with three centrefront front buttonholes as closures. I wanted to mimic more of a suit jacket, where the buttons started lower down. So I REMOVED THE TOP BUTTONHOLE, and slightly modified the angle of the lapel so that it sloped towards the new top buttonhole (originally the middle buttonhole).

I also removed the PLACKET ON THE SLEEVES as I felt the coat had enough detail already. The coating fabric is quite thick, and I didn't want to add extra bulk at the cuffs, or run the risk of it looking messy.

I interfaced the hems of the bodice and sleeves for extra structure and support.

I lined the pockets and pocket flaps with liberty fabric for a little extra detail, and hand tacked the pocket bags to the coat so that they wouldn't fold or move around.

Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia BobbinWool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin


Look Out For

I found step 30, which instructs you to attach the lining to the back vent quite confusing. In the end I pinned it in place and hand stitched it so I had more control and to ensure the lining didn't pull and distort the drape of the vent.

I also hand stitched the vent hems along the centre back to keep them in place before attaching the lining.

The instructions for adding the welt pocket and flap is also a little confusing.
I highly recommend you cut out one muslin pocket and practise on that before trying it in your proper fabric.
The pockets are time consuming and the success relies on precision and patience, so it is worth taking that extra time to establish the techniques if you haven't done one of these pockets before.

Tips For Bulky Seams

Tailors Clapper, where have you been all my LIFE?!!!

I love top stitching, and it's a great way to keep seams flat and neat. But for this coat I really wanted a crisp look without top stitching and I so I asked the internet Gods how to achieve this; they came through.

If you are wanting to get the cleanest, flattest seams then you absolutely have to invest in a tailors clapper.
It honestly made a huge difference to just steam ironing and when you're using thick fabric like this 570gsm coating it's a must.

When steam ironing your seams, you replace the iron immediately with the clapper and press it there for around 5 seconds. The wood absorbs the moisture from the steam and traps the heat into the fabric, rather than releasing the steam and heat into the air.

Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin

Final Thoughts

I'm not going to lie, thanks to this lining I've had 'Joseph and his amazing technicolour dream coat' stuck in my head on repeat. I may never be able to squash that ear worm and that's ok, because this coat makes it worth it.

I wanted a long coat, I wanted a warm coat, and I wanted one that would mimic a suit jacket. This coat has ticked all those boxes and I am thrilled that it was successful considering all the time I put into it.
It's another reminder that you never regret taking the time with techniques and fit.

Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin
Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin

Sunday, 26 May 2019

Leather Jacket #3 - BurdaStyle #108B

Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket

Before I started sewing, the number of leather garments that I owned was a big fat ZERO.

Now I own two leather skirts, have plans for a pair of leather pants and have just finished making my THIRD leather jacket.

The Pattern

It's my second time around, with BurdaStyle - Biker Style Peplum Jacket #108B

This pattern is so well drafted, has the perfect proportions for my body and is a wonderful pattern for sewing with leather as it has no darts and just princess seams.

This is a downloadable pattern from Burdastyle's website, so take note this pattern DOES NOT include seam allowances and the instructions that accompany the PDF download are very minimal.

 Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket

Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket

The Fabric

A stunning brown from Leffler's Leather. It's a sheep skin nappa, with a weight of 0.6-0.8 which gives such great shape to this jacket.

I've made this jacket before in a black leather which was slightly finer so the black jacket drapes a little differently.

Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket

Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket

The Lining

I kept looking for the 'right' lining for this jacket, and everything I found seemed to be missing the mark somehow.
Then one day, while sorting through my silk scraps from previous projects I was struck with a sudden idea!
I could use the left over silks and combine them together to make a beautiful lining, that was both resourceful and a lovely nod to my past projects!

Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket


JACKET BACK - I used a green silk satin from Tessuti that was left over from my Evie Bias Skirt pattern also by Tessuti Fabrics.

JACKET FRONT is lined with orange silk satin from The Cloth Shop, which I used for my Sadi Slip dress (pattern by Tessuti Fabrics).

SLEEVES are lined with a blue silk remnant that I've had in my cupboard from the beginning of time.

I love how these patch together and add a feature to the jacket! It's economical, minimises waste, and looks so luscious!

Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket

Details

The zippers on this jacket give it an edgy look, with one at each of the sleeve hems and a separating zipper at the side front of the bodice.

I had to shorten the centre zipper to fit the jacket but couldn't reattach the nickel zipper stops. After a lot of thought, I ended up sewing small little loops of leather onto the zipper tape to act as the stops and I love how clean it makes it look!

Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket

The peplum hem gives this piece great proportion and shape, without too much flounce.

I love the short collar along the neckline, which really completes the look.

The style of this jacket means you can change up the look by having the jacket done all the way up, half up with the lapels folded back, or completely unzipped for a relaxed look.

Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket

Changes

The pattern recommends woven fabrics for version B with leather detailing on the shoulders and yoke. I omitted the extra shoulder pieces, which are appliqu├ęd and made the whole jacket in leather.

As with my other leather jackets, I added shoulder pads to give balance and proportion and I love how strong the shoulders look with it.

I didn't add any press studs because I like the sleekness of the finished look with just the zippers.

I added bias strips to the inside hems of the bodice and sleeves so that I had something to hand stitch the lining onto. Hand stitching directly onto leather is hard work and even with a thimble is very slow going. The little gold bias strips that were added to make hand stitching easier, also give the finished project that little bit of 'extra'.

Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket

Tips for sewing with Leather

If you've decided to give leather a go and are unsure about how much to buy, MY ADVICE is to take your pattern pieces with you to the store and lay them out on the leather hides.
This way you can see exactly how many you need to buy.
Leather is expensive and each hide is different, so this really helps you get exactly what you need for your project.

CHECK OUT this post on my second leather jacket which has a very detailed list (about half way down blog post) of SEWING TIPS for working with leather.

You can also check out my other leather garments below:








A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin) on


Final Thoughts

I am stoked with how this jacket turned out and I have already gotten so much wear out of it!

The colour is versatile with the contents of my wardrobe, the shape is timeless and flattering, and every time I open my jacket I get a thrill of satisfaction when I see the colourful lining.

This is my second successful leather jacket with this pattern and I get a feeling it won't be my last :)

Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket

Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket
Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket