Tuesday, 1 October 2019

Silk Cami - Kate Bias Top by Just Patterns

Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin
Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin
Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin

There has come a point in my life where I have realised that my dress sense is akin to that of a magpie. If it's bright and shiny, I want it on my body.

I'm ok with this.

The Pattern

Introducing my latest bright and shiny, the Kate Bias Top by Just Patterns
This is so beautifully cut and for some crazy reason, the pattern is only $3AUD. So actually, what are you waiting for.

This is my second time making this pattern and it's as good as I remember.

Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin

The Fabric

Luscious silk satin in a beautiful purple hue and 19mm weight, which I purchased from Home Craft Textiles.

I will never get over the feel and look of silk satin cut on the bias. It's just everything that is beautiful and wonderful about fabric and it soaks up colour like nothing else.

Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin
Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin

The Details

This bias top is free of darts, is cut on the bias and fully lined.

It is held at the shoulders with bias cut spaghetti straps and hemmed with a narrow hem.

It has a lovely soft V shaped neckline and is figure flattering but not form fitting.

Wearing with

And hey! My whole outfit is me-made! That's happening more and more these days and I find that so encouraging and exciting!

I've paired my silk cami with this self drafted sequinned skirt:


And my silk organza trench coat that I made using Simplicity 8554


Final Thoughts

A quick easy make, that looks and feels fancy and chic. This is my third silk cami and it will not be my last!

Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin
Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin
Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin

Tuesday, 24 September 2019

Pattern Hack DRESS - Adrienne meets Rita!

Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup
Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup

I had a hack attack ...

The Pattern(S)

It'll surprise no one to learn that I love the Rita Blouse by Charm Patterns, seeing as I've made it THREE times, and then hacked it into a dress TWICE.

But then I saw the Adrienne blouse by Friday Pattern Company and the hamsters started running circles in my head again!

Meet the Rita Blouse MEETS Adrienne Blouse MEETS dress hack!

Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup
Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup

The BODICE is The Rita Blouse, the SLEEVES are the from The Adrienne Blouse and the SKIRT is a self drafted skirt with a flounce at the hem.

Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup
Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup

The Fabric

This beautiful floral silk from Tessuti Fabrics was enough to tempt me away from my solid colours.

It's a beautiful fabric that I purchased and made this skirt with back in 2014 (yep).


I liked the fabric so much I panic purchased another two metres and I finally decided to stop staring at it and actually use it.

The bodice and skirt is underlined with a light (and white) linen for extra body, and the sleeves and flounce are just the single layer of silk.

Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup
Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup
Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup

My previous Rita Blouses and Dress Mashups




The Details

The Rita blouse has an ELASTICISED neckline and sleeve cuffs, so it was easy to substitute the Adrienne sleeve pattern, which also has elasticised sleeves and neck edging.

The BODICE is gathered under the bust, and then shaped with princess seams below the bust to the hem.

The Dress is closed with an INVISIBLE ZIPPER on the side seam. 
I took the zipper all the way up to the arm pit to try and maximise the opening for when putting on the dress. The underbust seam always has to be man-handled to get it past my bust when putting the dress on.

Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup
Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup
Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup

Final Thoughts

It's not often I wear a print, so when I do I go HARD.

This was a quick and straight forward make, and I'm glad I finally put this stunning fabric to good use; just in time for a Melbourne Spring,

Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup
Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup
Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup
Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup

Sunday, 15 September 2019

DIY Red Bombshell Dress

Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin
Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin
Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin

I did one of those things I've been wanting to do for a long time.

I bought a dress (online! On sale! cheap! polyester!) and tried my hand at copying it and making my own version.
I loved the drape of the neckline, and the classic silhouette. It is such a sassy dress, and I upped the drama by making it in red. As you do.

Fabric

I purchased a lolly-red, cotton sateen from GJ's Discount Fabrics.
The original purchased dress (black) had the look and subtle stretch of a cotton sateen and I wanted to mimic the fabric as close as possible to achieve the same fit.

Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin
IMG_4693

Details

The bodice is fully faced (lined) with the same fabric. The bodice front is actually one big mirrored piece that folds over itself at the neckline.

I cut the bodice on the bias, and added spaghetti straps at the shoulders.
The bodice is shaped with two big pleats on either side of the bust which creates the cowl shape.

The skirt finishes just below the knee with a thigh high split.

The original dress by Chancery in blue. Image from www.theiconic.com.au


Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin
Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin
Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin

Final Thoughts

I love how this turned out, and I'm shocked how straight forward it was!
Makes me look differently at some of my old favourites in my closet that are on their last legs. You could trace them or pull them apart to make pattern pieces and reincarnate something you love.

Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin
Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin
IMG_4665



  

Wednesday, 31 July 2019

Misty Cami by 'Sew Altered Style' - The HACK-A-THON Blog Tour

Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
IMG_4401

NEW indie pattern company ALERT!

The talented Mac and Katie are the creatives behind the new pattern company 'Sew Altered Style' and they are kicking off their first pattern release with a 'Hack-A-Thon' blogger tour!
The concept is to take their new pattern, make a change (hack) big or small and have a bit of fun!

Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin

The Pattern

It's the Misty Cami and the first pattern released by Sew Altered Style.

This cami comes with four different views, which is made up of two different strap versions, two different back heights and the option of camisole or dress length.

The pattern ranges from sizes 0-30 and in addition, you also select between two cup size options, A/B or C/D. If you fall outside those sizes don't worry, the pattern comes with instructions on how to do a 'full bust adjustment'.

Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin

Sizing and View

I MADE View A (low back camisole) in a size 10 with the A/B cup(!) option.

For reference, my bra size varies from anywhere between D-EE depending on the brand and, like, how much cheese I've eaten.

The instructions get you to measure the width of your breasts at the widest point, and then the width of the upper breast. The variation in length determines what cup size you need, and I'm not sure why but the difference between the two measurements for me was small.

With the size 10 cut on the bias, the smaller bust option fit well, and I love a loose drape in a camisole. The bust darts sit a little low (which doesn't bother me), but this was a tester pattern and it has since been corrected on the official pattern.

Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
IMG_4349 (1)

Fabric

I used a stunning, saturated, chocolate silk satin that almost literally looks like melted chocolate.
This beautiful fabric was purchased from the wonderful people of The Cloth Shop in Ivanhoe

IMG_4434 (1)
IMG_4421

Details + Changes

This flattering, loose fitting pattern calls for light weight, drapey woven fabrics with the direction of the grain line following the selvage of the fabric.  Because I was making my cami out of silk, I decided to go a little extra and CUT ALL MY PIECES ON THE BIAS.
The neckline and the straps sit so well when cut on this angle, and I love how it makes the silk drape.

Instead of the regular hem and to accomodate the bias cut of the silk, I decided to finish the cami with a NARROW HEM.

I eliminated the FRONT CENTRE SEAM. The pattern gives you the option of a centre seam in the front, or to cut the front piece on the fold.

I also chose not to interface the facing pieces. When it comes to camisoles made of silk, I like both pieces of fabric to behave and drape the same, and I find the under-stitching on the neckline is enough to give structure and shape in a bias cut.

In addition to cutting my pieces on the bias, my PATTERN HACK was to change the shoulder straps to thin, BIAS CUT TIE STRAPS.
Not only does it look great, but it means you can adjust the length of your straps as you wear it, rather than in the construction stages of the garment.

Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin

Final Thoughts

It's incredibly satisfying to make something beautiful and clean and to be able to finish it in one sitting.
A camisole is such a classic wardrobe staple that can be paired with almost anything and for any occasion.

I love the fit and cut of this beautiful pattern, (which is 20% off with code MISTY20 until August 4)  and I'm very excited to see what else Sew Altered Style has for us in the future!

Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin