Sunday, 15 September 2019

DIY Red Bombshell Dress

Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin
Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin
Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin

I did one of those things I've been wanting to do for a long time.

I bought a dress (online! On sale! cheap! polyester!) and tried my hand at copying it and making my own version.
I loved the drape of the neckline, and the classic silhouette. It is such a sassy dress, and I upped the drama by making it in red. As you do.

Fabric

I purchased a lolly-red, cotton sateen from GJ's Discount Fabrics.
The original purchased dress (black) had the look and subtle stretch of a cotton sateen and I wanted to mimic the fabric as close as possible to achieve the same fit.

Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin

Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin

Details

The bodice is fully faced (lined) with the same fabric. The bodice front is actually one big mirrored piece that folds over itself at the neckline.

I cut the bodice on the bias, and added spaghetti straps at the shoulders.
The bodice is shaped with two big pleats on either side of the bust which creates the cowl shape.

The skirt finishes just below the knee with a thigh high split.

The original dress by Chancery in blue. Image from www.theiconic.com.au


Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin
Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin
Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin

Final Thoughts

I love how this turned out, and I'm shocked how straight forward it was!
Makes me look differently at some of my old favourites in my closet that are on their last legs. You could trace them or pull them apart to make pattern pieces and reincarnate something you love.

Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin
Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin


Wednesday, 31 July 2019

Misty Cami by 'Sew Altered Style' - The HACK-A-THON Blog Tour

Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
IMG_4401

NEW indie pattern company ALERT!

The talented Mac and Katie are the creatives behind the new pattern company 'Sew Altered Style' and they are kicking off their first pattern release with a 'Hack-A-Thon' blogger tour!
The concept is to take their new pattern, make a change (hack) big or small and have a bit of fun!

Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin

The Pattern

It's the Misty Cami and the first pattern released by Sew Altered Style.

This cami comes with four different views, which is made up of two different strap versions, two different back heights and the option of camisole or dress length.

The pattern ranges from sizes 0-30 and in addition, you also select between two cup size options, A/B or C/D. If you fall outside those sizes don't worry, the pattern comes with instructions on how to do a 'full bust adjustment'.

Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin

Sizing and View

I MADE View A (low back camisole) in a size 10 with the A/B cup(!) option.

For reference, my bra size varies from anywhere between D-EE depending on the brand and, like, how much cheese I've eaten.

The instructions get you to measure the width of your breasts at the widest point, and then the width of the upper breast. The variation in length determines what cup size you need, and I'm not sure why but the difference between the two measurements for me was small.

With the size 10 cut on the bias, the smaller bust option fit well, and I love a loose drape in a camisole. The bust darts sit a little low (which doesn't bother me), but this was a tester pattern and it has since been corrected on the official pattern.

Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
IMG_4349 (1)

Fabric

I used a stunning, saturated, chocolate silk satin that almost literally looks like melted chocolate.
This beautiful fabric was purchased from the wonderful people of The Cloth Shop in Ivanhoe

IMG_4434 (1)
IMG_4421

Details + Changes

This flattering, loose fitting pattern calls for light weight, drapey woven fabrics with the direction of the grain line following the selvage of the fabric.  Because I was making my cami out of silk, I decided to go a little extra and CUT ALL MY PIECES ON THE BIAS.
The neckline and the straps sit so well when cut on this angle, and I love how it makes the silk drape.

Instead of the regular hem and to accomodate the bias cut of the silk, I decided to finish the cami with a NARROW HEM.

I eliminated the FRONT CENTRE SEAM. The pattern gives you the option of a centre seam in the front, or to cut the front piece on the fold.

I also chose not to interface the facing pieces. When it comes to camisoles made of silk, I like both pieces of fabric to behave and drape the same, and I find the under-stitching on the neckline is enough to give structure and shape in a bias cut.

In addition to cutting my pieces on the bias, my PATTERN HACK was to change the shoulder straps to thin, BIAS CUT TIE STRAPS.
Not only does it look great, but it means you can adjust the length of your straps as you wear it, rather than in the construction stages of the garment.

Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin

Final Thoughts

It's incredibly satisfying to make something beautiful and clean and to be able to finish it in one sitting.
A camisole is such a classic wardrobe staple that can be paired with almost anything and for any occasion.

I love the fit and cut of this beautiful pattern, (which is 20% off with code MISTY20 until August 4)  and I'm very excited to see what else Sew Altered Style has for us in the future!

Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin
Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin


Saturday, 13 July 2019

DIY Copy Cat - BALMAIN Sequinned JACKET and Faux Wrap SKIRT

I don't know when, I don't know how, but somehow I've become obsessed with making jackets. And what could bring home that realisation more, than a SEQUINNED jacket. I ask you.

Introducing my latest make, a Balmain inspired, Versace buttoned sequinned blazer dress:

DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look

The Pattern

JACKET:

To make this look I used Burda 6380, View B in a size 12.

This double-breasted vest pattern comes in two length variations, with the option to add a welt pocket and contrasting lapel.

This pattern doesn't come with sleeves, so I used the sleeve pattern from Burda 6845, which I recently used to make my long suit style winter coat.

The sleeve pattern pieces paired perfectly and had matching notches and markings.

SKIRT:

Self drafted, with a waistband, faux button closure and pocket flaps.

DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look

The Fabric

JACKET:

I found a beautiful sequinned fabric from an Etsy store called Lots of Fabrics . This is the second time I have purchased from this store and the quality is excellent.
The fabric has a slight stretch to it and the sequins are all sewn on, rather than glued.

I using a black sateen on the lapel for a contrast, and lined the jacket in a black poly satin.

SKIRT:

A beautiful, soft Japanese cotton sateen from Tessuti Fabrics.

DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look

Copy Cat Challenge

Together with the talented superstar Faith and wedding dress extraordinaire Kelly , we decided to do a celebrity copy cat look.

For this inspiration we decided to choose one of our favourite Olivia Palermo looks. Olivia has a great personal style, so choosing one was hard!

I decided on her Balmain jacket and skirt that she wore in January 2019 to the Balmain Haute Couture show in Paris during Haute Couture Fashion Week.

You can see the full look in my instagram post below:


The Details + Changes

THE JACKET:

I love THIN LAPELS on this pattern, which I made in a cotton sateen to contrast, as I thought the doubled up sequin lapel could end up looking lumpy, and would likely get lost.

I also eliminated the WELT for the same reasons.

I added SLEEVES from Burda 6845 and fitted the sleeve heads with SHOULDER PADS

DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look

DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look

To avoid drag lines around my hips and butt, I added a SEPARATING ZIPPER to close the jacket.

I was nervous about adding buttonholes on a sequinned fabric (could get messy real quick) but more importantly, the zipper balanced the stress of a fitted skirt evenly over my curvy lower body, where buttons would have gaped and caused drag lines.

The black zipper blends with the sequins, and it makes wearing the blazer as a dress more comfortable. The buttons were then sewn on top, with a SNAP BUTTON added just underneath the top closing button to hold in place.

I also REMOVED THE BACK WALKING VENT as I planned to wear this as a blazer dress.

THE SKIRT:

I made a MOCK WRAP at the front to mimic the original Balmain skirt, which I held in place with vintage versace buttons.
The skirt is closed with an INVISIBLE ZIPPER down the centre back seam.

I added POCKET FLAPS on the skirt front and lined them with a contrasting silk fabric.

DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look

Notions + Tools

NOTIONS:

6 x 22mm Versace Medusa Head Buttons in matte gold and matte silver from Vintage Buttons N Beads
1 x Separating zipper
1 x Invisible zipper (skirt)
1 x Snap button
1 pair of shoulder pads

TOOLS:

Janome DC2101
Walking Foot/Even Feed Foot
Stretch Needle
Clapper

DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look

Final Thoughts

Well that was fun!
I'm a sucker for all things shiny and fancy, and this outfit ticked all those boxes!
The original Balmain jacket retailed for $4500USD and the skirt for $785USD. Just another reminder of how wonderful it is to be able to sew your own clothes!

I'm also pleased to report that I have already worn this outfit out and it was an instant mood booster. I love how a good outfit can do that!

Thanks to Faith and Kelly for a fun challenge!

DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look
DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look