The Pattern
To make this dress I used the Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns, with the front neckline of the Kate Bias Top also by Just Patterns.
I've made the bias top THREE TIMES, and it's just a balanced, well engineered design, so it knew it would translate well into a dress.
I'm wearing the dress with my me-made leather jacket, which you can read about here.
Pattern Hack
Because these two patterns are from the same company, this was a super easy hack.
I lay the Kate Bias top over the pattern for the Christy Slip, which both have the same width and shape from the side notch, which is conveniently positioned in the same spot.
I then simply traced the Kate Bias Top neckline onto the Christy Slip Dress pattern and cut out the modified pattern.
The Fabric
A glorious silk satin from Tessuti Fabrics.
It has a 22mm weight, and is the colour 'almond'.
Tessuti always stock the most beautiful silk satins, and I'm yet to find better quality elsewhere.
The fabric is cut on the bias, interfaced at the necklines with silk organza and fully lined with a poly georgette.
The Details
This is a classic, straightforward dress, and I love adding extra details that make a dress more wearable and more precious.
I FULLY LINED the dress, and FRENCHED my seams.
Instead of under-stitching the neckline with a machine, I PICK-STITCHED the neckline on the inside of the garment. This gave me so much more control, and allowed me to reach spots on the neckline that you normally can't get to with a machine.
Narrow bias cut SPAGHETTI STRAPS hold the dress up at the shoulders.
I finished the dress with a delicate NARROW HEM that looks so polished on bias cut fabric.
Neckline Tip
To stabilise the neckline, I forewent the iron-on stay tape and used the pattern pieces to cut out a facing of silk organza (about 8cm in length).
Silk satin cut on the bias is a tricky textile to deal with, and iron on interfacing, even stay tape, can distort the lovely drape of the bias fabric and the stiffness can show through to the outside of the garment.
Using silk organza, which is about 6momme (mm) in weight, gives the neckline structure, support and strength, without adding bulk and is invisible from the right side.
Just like regular interfacing, you attach it to the individual pattern pieces on the wrong side. I hand basted my organza facings along the necklines and side seams, and pinked the organza edges.
The finished result is a smooth, sharp neckline that doesn't pucker, pull, flip out or bulge. It's well worth the extra 15 minutes it might take to cut out and attach.
The Changes
I cut the pattern in a size 42 as the pattern was drafted with negative ease, and I wanted to make sure I allowed enough room for my lower body.
Aside from hacking the neckline from the Kate Top, there were no fit changes.
I added 18cm to the length at the hem, as I love silk in a midi length and the original hem sits just below the knee.
Final Thoughts
I love the proportions of this bias cut dress and I love how it can transition from a day look to a night time look, depending on the shoes or the accessories.
It's super comfortable, straight forward to make and surprisingly flattering to wear on this curvy frame.
I think I just found my new favourite pattern for summer!
