TWO Tutorials - Couture Rolled Hem + Hand Pick Stitch AND a Silk Slip Dress

Hi sewing friends!

Today I have two mini hand sewing tutorials to share with you, and a fresh new silk slip dress!

The Dress

Made with the most divine, 22mm silk satin from Tessuti Fabrics, this self drafted cowl neck dress features:

• fully lined in a beautiful chocolate silk satin from The Cloth Shop
• French seams
• Bias cut silk
• pick stitched underlining
• bias cut spaghetti straps
• hand rolled hem

I love taking a simple dress and making it 'extra' by adding couture techniques, such as a hand pick stitched lining instead of a machine under stitching.

Hand Sewing Is Your Friend!

Typically, when we think about hand sewing we associate it with 'hard work', but friends, I am here to tell you that hand sewing is misunderstood!

I used to do everything I could to avoid hand sewing, associating it with the chore part of making a garment; necessary but not enjoyable.

Looking back I realised that the reason I felt that way is because I never really understood HOW to do it, and didn't appreciate how transformative and useful it was to a garment.

Once you realise the benefits of hand sewing and learn how to do it (it's actually easier than using a machine!) the dread is taken away. In fact in my experience I now actually enjoy it! Now I look at patterns to see where I can actually substitute machine sewing for hand sewing.

So what are the benefits of hand sewing?

• AESTHETICALLY PLEASING - there is nothing quite like hand finished details on a garment. It signifies couture and indicates the amount of effort and love put into a garment. The slight variations in stitches that are typical of a hand stitch, are in stark contrast to the uniform flat stitches of a machine.
• THE CONTROL - Hand sewing allows you to be exact. You can manipulate the fabric in front of you and place it exactly where it needs to go. 
• KINDER TO YOUR GARMENT - When you sew on the machine, you're forcing your whole garment under one small space, the needle. With hand sewing, you can sew with the garment on your lap, on a dress from, standing and sitting. You work on just the relevant area and don't add stress to the rest of the garment.
• DELICATE FABRICS -When sewing with fabrics such as silk, hand stitching allows you to use less thread, and control the amount of layers you want the stitch to go through. On a machine the thread is continuous and goes through all of the layers, which can distort the fabric. Ever tried sewing a machine stitched narrow hem on bias cut silk chiffon? It's almost inevitable to end up with a hem that is twisted in some spots. This is basically non existent on a hand rolled hem.

The Hand Rolled Hem

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A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin) on Mar 8, 2020 at 1:06pm PDT

SWIPE for left and right-handed views.

I am currently having a love affair with hand rolled hems. It just seems to be one of those things that once you've tried it, nothing else compares.

Not only is a hand rolled hem visually pleasing with it's tube like plump finish, it is also mesmerising how it works! Making those stitches and then pulling the thread and watching them roll, is some sort of sewing magic. WATCH the first video above to see it in action!

As with anything, there are many ways to roll a hem, but the above is how I do it.
There are two types of finishes for a hand rolled hem: The Italian and The French finish.

THE FRENCH rolled hem has the roll turned to the 'wrong' side of the fabric, which is typical for dress and skirt hems.

Above is an example of a French rolled hem, where the roll is on the 'wrong' side of the fabric.
This silk/wool blend pocket square is from Gentelman's Gazette.

THE ITALIAN rolled hem, and my personal favourite, is where the roll is turned to the right side of fabric. 

This is a typical finish on couture pocket squares (my other current obsession) and scarves and a favourite for couture houses such as Hermes (which is French; the irony!).

An Italian rolled hem, the roll is visible on the 'right' side of the fabric. The above silk twill pocket squares are from Rampley & Co

The Hand Pick Stitch

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A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin) on Feb 8, 2020 at 3:07pm PST

SWIPE for left and right-handed views.

A pick, or prick stitch refers to small, subtle back stitches that can be used to under-stitch a facing or lining (as I've done in the above video for my slip dress), or as decorative top stitch on garments such as lapels and pockets.

A hand pick stitched lapel on a suit is a strong indicator of a bespoke, high quality suit. Because of this, many 'ready-to-wear' brands use pick stitching on their garments to make it look high-end, but when you look up close, the uniformity of the stitch is a clear give away that it was done by machine.

A hand pick-stitch has slight irregularities and is usually done with a silk thread. Once you see the difference it's quite easy to spot.

A subtle, hand pick-stitched lapel from bespoke tailors Burdi Clothing

Final Thoughts

The more I go down the rabbit hole of couture sewing, the more I fall in love with it and want to learn more! 

What excites me the most, is that these techniques, though they may take a bit more time than a machine, are not complicated or reserved for the experienced and highly skilled. They are repetitive, easy enough stitches that home sewers can achieve whether beginner or advanced.

The end result is something beautiful, well engineered and a push back on fast fashion where everything is mass produced and not built to last. Hand sewing for the win!

Me-Mades in 2019 - A Year In Review

2019 in the year of sewing has been an absolute joy.

I've had more time in front of my machine then I have had in over six years.

I celebrated my ten year sewing anniversary, and I fell head over heals in love with hand sewing and tailoring. I made my first (and second!) hand sewn, tailored jacket and I'm making good strides on my first three piece SUIT.

Click above to see more progress shots

I've had the extreme pleasure of being interviewed for 'Sew Organised Style' Podcast, been featured in 'Sewn Magazine', participated in two 'Celebrity Copy Cat Challenges' with my friend Faith, and got to indulge in the #sewfrosting delight that is Melbourne Frocktails!

Clockwise from top left: 1. Podcast episode with 'Sew Organised Style'  2. Sewn Magazine Feature 3. Olivia Palermo copy-cat challenge 4. Rihanna copy-cat challenge

This year I have made the total of 25 new garments (three not yet blogged), which include:

Judging by the above data (Oh my God how good is a pie chart, though?!!) in 2019 you were likely to see me make a dress using silk with a solid colour.

On Reflection

There's nothing like the closing of a year to make you stop and reflect back.

I know new years resolutions can seem like a set up, but I love the energy and hope that surrounds the early weeks of a new year, where anything and everything is possible and people seem more engaged and optimistic.

In 2020 I hope to see more hand-sewn, couture additions to my wardrobe and I am excited and grateful for the new year ahead.

THANK YOU to my readers for all your love and support you've shown me and my makes this year; it means more than you know <3

Scroll below to see all my makes for 2019 - CLICK ON THE IMAGES to be directed to the blog post :)

DIY Red Bombshell Dress

I did one of those things I've been wanting to do for a long time.

I bought a dress (online! On sale! cheap! polyester!) and tried my hand at copying it and making my own version.
I loved the drape of the neckline, and the classic silhouette. It is such a sassy dress, and I upped the drama by making it in red. As you do.

Fabric

I purchased a lolly-red, cotton sateen from GJ's Discount Fabrics.
The original purchased dress (black) had the look and subtle stretch of a cotton sateen and I wanted to mimic the fabric as close as possible to achieve the same fit.

Details

The bodice is fully faced (lined) with the same fabric. The bodice front is actually one big mirrored piece that folds over itself at the neckline.

I cut the bodice on the bias, and added spaghetti straps at the shoulders.
The bodice is shaped with two big pleats on either side of the bust which creates the cowl shape.

The skirt finishes just below the knee with a thigh high split.

The original dress by Chancery in blue. Image from www.theiconic.com.au

Final Thoughts

I love how this turned out, and I'm shocked how straight forward it was!
Makes me look differently at some of my old favourites in my closet that are on their last legs. You could trace them or pull them apart to make pattern pieces and reincarnate something you love.

Pink Winter Coat - Burda 6845

There's something about making coats, isn't there?

They are such a labour of love, get so much use, and make you feel like you've really made something clever!

Introducing my latest make, my 2019 winter coat.

The Pattern

I used Burda 6845 in View A which is a slim-lined coat with a flap pockets, a lapel and a rear walking slit.

The Fabric

The outside of my coat is a beautiful fabric from Tessuti Fabrics made up of 50% wool and 50% mohair, with a weight of 570gsm. It is so soft and such a lovely pink and has such incredible warmth; a must for a winter coat!

I lined the coat with a silk dupion that I've had in my stash since the beginning of time. I love how it features different blocks of colour which compliment nicely with the coat fabric.

And did I carefully match up those squares of colour? Why yes, yes I did. Thanks for asking.

Notions

Buttons from Spotlight
Whisper-weft interfacing
Guterman thread no. 473
Uncovered shoulder pads doubled up.

The Details

I love how the LINING HAS A PLEAT at the centre back waist as well as at the base of the neck. It allows for extra movement when you're wearing your coat so that the lining doesn't rip or pull.

THE DRAFTING of BurdaStyle patterns is always so beautiful. Where they might lack in pattern instructions, they make up for in pattern details.
The princess seams flatter and shape the body, and the two piece sleeves naturally curve at the elbow and shape the arm.

I love the FLAP POCKETS which sit just at the right height, which I lined with liberty of london fabric for a little extra something.

I'm in love with the LENGTH OF THIS COAT. I had been day-dreaming for a while about a long coat, and this one hits the ankle at just the right point on my 5'4" frame.

I added thick, uncovered SHOULDER PADS to the coat and I love the balance and proportion it gives the finished look. Because of the structure and length of this coat, it absolutely needed a strong shoulder to balance the look.

The centre back of the coat features a WALKING VENT which is practical and polished.

The width and shaping of the COLLAR AND LAPELS is just right; not too bulky and with lovely sharp angles. I also added liberty fabric to the collar band for a little secret contrast.

The Buttonholes

One of the nicest techniques to do add to a jacket is bound buttonholes. It's what elevates a look from off the shelf to couture, and it's something you hardly see on a jacket anymore.

A bound buttonhole is the process of adding two 'lips' to make a place for your button to go through, rather than a slit wrapped tightly in thread. It definitely takes more time and requires a fair bit of concentration, but the end result is lovely and incredibly satisfying!  It's such a lovely way to treat yourself and your coat!

You can click here to follow my tutorial on how to make and face a bound buttonhole.

Changes

Before I even looked at patterns, I knew I wanted to make a midi length, oversized suit style coat that could be both formal, or dressed down with jeans and a tee.

This pattern comes with three centrefront front buttonholes as closures. I wanted to mimic more of a suit jacket, where the buttons started lower down. So I REMOVED THE TOP BUTTONHOLE, and slightly modified the angle of the lapel so that it sloped towards the new top buttonhole (originally the middle buttonhole).

I also removed the PLACKET ON THE SLEEVES as I felt the coat had enough detail already. The coating fabric is quite thick, and I didn't want to add extra bulk at the cuffs, or run the risk of it looking messy.

I interfaced the hems of the bodice and sleeves for extra structure and support.

I lined the pockets and pocket flaps with liberty fabric for a little extra detail, and hand tacked the pocket bags to the coat so that they wouldn't fold or move around.






Look Out For

I found step 30, which instructs you to attach the lining to the back vent quite confusing. In the end I pinned it in place and hand stitched it so I had more control and to ensure the lining didn't pull and distort the drape of the vent.

I also hand stitched the vent hems along the centre back to keep them in place before attaching the lining.

The instructions for adding the welt pocket and flap is also a little confusing.
I highly recommend you cut out one muslin pocket and practise on that before trying it in your proper fabric.
The pockets are time consuming and the success relies on precision and patience, so it is worth taking that extra time to establish the techniques if you haven't done one of these pockets before.

Tips For Bulky Seams

Tailors Clapper, where have you been all my LIFE?!!!

I love top stitching, and it's a great way to keep seams flat and neat. But for this coat I really wanted a crisp look without top stitching and I so I asked the internet Gods how to achieve this; they came through.

If you are wanting to get the cleanest, flattest seams then you absolutely have to invest in a tailors clapper.
It honestly made a huge difference to just steam ironing and when you're using thick fabric like this 570gsm coating it's a must.

When steam ironing your seams, you replace the iron immediately with the clapper and press it there for around 5 seconds. The wood absorbs the moisture from the steam and traps the heat into the fabric, rather than releasing the steam and heat into the air.

Final Thoughts

I'm not going to lie, thanks to this lining I've had 'Joseph and his amazing technicolour dream coat' stuck in my head on repeat. I may never be able to squash that ear worm and that's ok, because this coat makes it worth it.

I wanted a long coat, I wanted a warm coat, and I wanted one that would mimic a suit jacket. This coat has ticked all those boxes and I am thrilled that it was successful considering all the time I put into it.

It's another reminder that you never regret taking the time with techniques and fit.