You know your sewing techniques are getting crazier when you can easily have the following conversation with your partner and he doesn't even bat an eye lid:
Me: "Hey honey, do you have any fishing line?"
Husband (H): "Yeah probably, why?"
Me: " Oh, I need some for my sewing."
Slight pause as he contemplates whether it's worth asking how the heck I can use fishing line in my sewing. Decides it's best not to ask.
H: "Oh, ok sure. I'll get you some."
My latest tutorial involves a beautiful structured rolled hem with the aid of fishing line, and all sewn on a sewing machine! I learnt this technique from an inspirational and absolute sewing master who is the grandmother of a very talented friend Katherine. We shall call her 'Katherine's Grandmother'.
Nice.
But before I get prattling away, let's talk ...
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Tutorial
What you'll need:- Fabric strips cut on the cross grain Looks really pretty on light weight fabrics like silk, organza and tulle.
- Scissors
- Sewing machine
- Thread (a bucket load of it, rolled hems like to gobble it up) for a prettier finish it's recommended you use a fancy glossy thread like a poly-sheen
- Fishing line (seriously) 55mm, 30 pound line - you can experiment with different thicknesses. Have fun walking into a tackle shop in your gorgeous couture and asking for fishing line. Tell the shocked shop attendant it's for sewing. Enjoy watching his freaked out expression.
- A kick-ass backing track.
Let's do this:
Machine settings
Zig Zag stitch (that's #8 on my machine)
Stitch width - 4
Stitch length - 0.5
Zig Zag stitch (that's #8 on my machine)
Stitch width - 4
Stitch length - 0.5
The wide stitch will help flick the edge of the fabric around the fishing line, the short length of the stitch will make the stitches nice and close together, keeping everything in place and looking pretty.
Position the fabric so that there is about a 1/4 inch seam allowance. This allowance needs to be small because it will be flicked up into the stitch and 'rolled' to make the hem.
Place the fishing line directly on top of the fabric, centred through the foot. If you were doing a straight stitch the fishing line would be directly under the needle. Because it's a zig zag stitch the needle will always fall either side of the fishing line.
Make sure you pull a bit of fishing line out the back of the machine, just like you would do with the first threads. You're going to want to gently hold onto the fishing line for the first few stitches so that the stitching doesn't get stuck and bunch up. Once it starts moving you can let go.
Lightly guide the fishing line so that it stays near the edge of the fabric and centred under the foot. You can see above how I'm holding onto the line to keep it close to the edge, but I am not pulling on it. Guide, don't pull.
Finish the row of stitching and then trim the threads and the fishing line at the ends. You end up with a flouncy, 3D structured hem.
Here's the one I made previously ...
Nice huh? Katherine's grandmother would explain this better (and do a much prettier job) but you get the idea. I love how it can all be done on a sewing machine (yay to no overlocker/serger!) and the result is so strong and pretty.
This look would look great as a feature on a one shoulder dress, or as flouncy sleeves, or a veil for a wedding dress. The possibilities are endless!
Oh, and for those with a strong stomach (get it?! get it??!!), here's what I made for my Halloween costume this year. Disgustingly awesome and mildly inappropriate.
Happy sewing!
