Misty Cami by 'Sew Altered Style' - The HACK-A-THON Blog Tour

NEW indie pattern company ALERT!

The talented Mac and Katie are the creatives behind the new pattern company 'Sew Altered Style' and they are kicking off their first pattern release with a 'Hack-A-Thon' blogger tour!
The concept is to take their new pattern, make a change (hack) big or small and have a bit of fun!

The Pattern

It's the Misty Cami and the first pattern released by Sew Altered Style.

This cami comes with four different views, which is made up of two different strap versions, two different back heights and the option of camisole or dress length.

The pattern ranges from sizes 0-30 and in addition, you also select between two cup size options, A/B or C/D. If you fall outside those sizes don't worry, the pattern comes with instructions on how to do a 'full bust adjustment'.

Sizing and View

I MADE View A (low back camisole) in a size 10 with the A/B cup(!) option.

For reference, my bra size varies from anywhere between D-EE depending on the brand and, like, how much cheese I've eaten.

The instructions get you to measure the width of your breasts at the widest point, and then the width of the upper breast. The variation in length determines what cup size you need, and I'm not sure why but the difference between the two measurements for me was small.

With the size 10 cut on the bias, the smaller bust option fit well, and I love a loose drape in a camisole. The bust darts sit a little low (which doesn't bother me), but this was a tester pattern and it has since been corrected on the official pattern.

Fabric

I used a stunning, saturated, chocolate silk satin that almost literally looks like melted chocolate.
This beautiful fabric was purchased from the wonderful people of The Cloth Shop in Ivanhoe

Details + Changes

This flattering, loose fitting pattern calls for light weight, drapey woven fabrics with the direction of the grain line following the selvage of the fabric.  Because I was making my cami out of silk, I decided to go a little extra and CUT ALL MY PIECES ON THE BIAS.
The neckline and the straps sit so well when cut on this angle, and I love how it makes the silk drape.

Instead of the regular hem and to accomodate the bias cut of the silk, I decided to finish the cami with a NARROW HEM.

I eliminated the FRONT CENTRE SEAM. The pattern gives you the option of a centre seam in the front, or to cut the front piece on the fold.

I also chose not to interface the facing pieces. When it comes to camisoles made of silk, I like both pieces of fabric to behave and drape the same, and I find the under-stitching on the neckline is enough to give structure and shape in a bias cut.

In addition to cutting my pieces on the bias, my PATTERN HACK was to change the shoulder straps to thin, BIAS CUT TIE STRAPS.
Not only does it look great, but it means you can adjust the length of your straps as you wear it, rather than in the construction stages of the garment.

Final Thoughts

It's incredibly satisfying to make something beautiful and clean and to be able to finish it in one sitting.
A camisole is such a classic wardrobe staple that can be paired with almost anything and for any occasion.

I love the fit and cut of this beautiful pattern, (which is 20% off with code MISTY20 until August 4)  and I'm very excited to see what else Sew Altered Style has for us in the future!

Kate Bias Top - By Just Patterns

Is sewing with silk a super power?

Because this silk camisole, saturated in the most beautiful mustard yellow is making me feel a little bit EXTRA and people need to KNOW.

The Pattern

It's the Kate Bias Top by Just Patterns and it's available in sizes 34 to 46.

The top is lined, cut on the bias and has self-fabric spaghetti straps.

I'm wearing this top with my me-made leather skirt which you can read about here.

The Fabric

I purchased this stunning crepe de chine silk from The Fabric Store. In fact I loved it so much that I later went back and purchased another three metres.

It has the most beautiful drape, vibrant in colour and hangs so nicely on the body when cut on the bias.

A word to the wise - pre-wash this fabric. I made the HUGE mistake of thinking I could make a dress out of this without washing it first - stay in school kids. I got a tiny bit of water on it, which ended up staining it and shrinking it in that one area. So I washed the whole dress and now it's too darn small. The. Shame. Is. Real.

I lined this bias top with a polyester georgette that I purchased from Spotlight. Ideally this camisole would have been best lined with silk, but I do like the extra body the poly gives, and it saves me a bit of coin; cutting on the bias chews up meterage!

Changes

I didn't add fusible stay-tape to the neckline and that was the only change that I made. Because camisoles are body skimming but not form fitting, there is room for error in the fitting department.

I kept the side-seams clean with french seams, and under-stitched the neckline to the lining.

Tip: French seams are more labour intensive, but so well suited to delicate fabrics such as silk. Overlocked/serged edges can sometimes show through, add weight to light fabrics, and even leave indents on the delicate fabric.

Take Note: The seam allowances vary through this pattern, with 1/2" for side seams and 1/4" for neckline and hems. Be mindful when you're sewing not to go into automatic 1.5cm seam allowance mode.

Loves

Those spaghetti straps look so pretty and petite and the neckline is such a flattering cut.

This whole top is giving me some serious nineties vibes and I have strong urges to put some butterfly clips in my hair, chuck on some doc martins and watch 'Reality Bites' (oh Troy!).

Conclusion

Oh, do I have plans for this pattern. A top that is both gorgeous and comfortable is a winner for any wardrobe, and I have plans to make many more.