DIY Copy Cat - BALMAIN Sequinned JACKET and Faux Wrap SKIRT

I don't know when, I don't know how, but somehow I've become obsessed with making jackets. And what could bring home that realisation more, than a SEQUINNED jacket. I ask you.

Introducing my latest make, a Balmain inspired, Versace buttoned sequinned blazer dress:

The Pattern

JACKET:

To make this look I used Burda 6380, View B in a size 12.

This double-breasted vest pattern comes in two length variations, with the option to add a welt pocket and contrasting lapel.

This pattern doesn't come with sleeves, so I used the sleeve pattern from Burda 6845, which I recently used to make my long suit style winter coat.

The sleeve pattern pieces paired perfectly and had matching notches and markings.

SKIRT:

Self drafted, with a waistband, faux button closure and pocket flaps.

The Fabric

JACKET:

I found a beautiful sequinned fabric from an Etsy store called Lots of Fabrics . This is the second time I have purchased from this store and the quality is excellent.
The fabric has a slight stretch to it and the sequins are all sewn on, rather than glued.

I using a black sateen on the lapel for a contrast, and lined the jacket in a black poly satin.

SKIRT:

A beautiful, soft Japanese cotton sateen from Tessuti Fabrics.

Copy Cat Challenge

Together with the talented superstar Faith and wedding dress extraordinaire Kelly , we decided to do a celebrity copy cat look.

For this inspiration we decided to choose one of our favourite Olivia Palermo looks. Olivia has a great personal style, so choosing one was hard!

I decided on her Balmain jacket and skirt that she wore in January 2019 to the Balmain Haute Couture show in Paris during Haute Couture Fashion Week.

You can see the full look in my instagram post below:

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A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin) on Jul 12, 2019 at 6:08pm PDT

The Details + Changes

THE JACKET:

I love THIN LAPELS on this pattern, which I made in a cotton sateen to contrast, as I thought the doubled up sequin lapel could end up looking lumpy, and would likely get lost.

I also eliminated the WELT for the same reasons.

I added SLEEVES from Burda 6845 and fitted the sleeve heads with SHOULDER PADS

To avoid drag lines around my hips and butt, I added a SEPARATING ZIPPER to close the jacket.

I was nervous about adding buttonholes on a sequinned fabric (could get messy real quick) but more importantly, the zipper balanced the stress of a fitted skirt evenly over my curvy lower body, where buttons would have gaped and caused drag lines.

The black zipper blends with the sequins, and it makes wearing the blazer as a dress more comfortable. The buttons were then sewn on top, with a SNAP BUTTON added just underneath the top closing button to hold in place.

I also REMOVED THE BACK WALKING VENT as I planned to wear this as a blazer dress.

THE SKIRT:

I made a MOCK WRAP at the front to mimic the original Balmain skirt, which I held in place with vintage versace buttons.
The skirt is closed with an INVISIBLE ZIPPER down the centre back seam.

I added POCKET FLAPS on the skirt front and lined them with a contrasting silk fabric.

Notions + Tools

NOTIONS:

6 x 22mm Versace Medusa Head Buttons in matte gold and matte silver from Vintage Buttons N Beads
1 x Separating zipper
1 x Invisible zipper (skirt)
1 x Snap button
1 pair of shoulder pads

TOOLS:

Janome DC2101
Walking Foot/Even Feed Foot
Stretch Needle
Clapper

Final Thoughts

Well that was fun!
I'm a sucker for all things shiny and fancy, and this outfit ticked all those boxes!
The original Balmain jacket retailed for $4500USD and the skirt for $785USD. Just another reminder of how wonderful it is to be able to sew your own clothes!

I'm also pleased to report that I have already worn this outfit out and it was an instant mood booster. I love how a good outfit can do that!

Thanks to Faith and Kelly for a fun challenge!

Leather Jacket #3 - BurdaStyle #108B

Before I started sewing, the number of leather garments that I owned was a big fat ZERO.

Now I own two leather skirts, have plans for a pair of leather pants and have just finished making my THIRD leather jacket.

The Pattern

It's my second time around, with BurdaStyle - Biker Style Peplum Jacket #108B

This pattern is so well drafted, has the perfect proportions for my body and is a wonderful pattern for sewing with leather as it has no darts and just princess seams.

This is a downloadable pattern from Burdastyle's website, so take note this pattern DOES NOT include seam allowances and the instructions that accompany the PDF download are very minimal.

 

The Fabric

A stunning brown from Leffler's Leather. It's a sheep skin nappa, with a weight of 0.6-0.8 which gives such great shape to this jacket.

I've made this jacket before in a black leather which was slightly finer so the black jacket drapes a little differently.

The Lining

I kept looking for the 'right' lining for this jacket, and everything I found seemed to be missing the mark somehow.
Then one day, while sorting through my silk scraps from previous projects I was struck with a sudden idea!
I could use the left over silks and combine them together to make a beautiful lining, that was both resourceful and a lovely nod to my past projects!

JACKET BACK - I used a green silk satin from Tessuti that was left over from my Evie Bias Skirt pattern also by Tessuti Fabrics.

JACKET FRONT is lined with orange silk satin from The Cloth Shop, which I used for my Sadi Slip dress (pattern by Tessuti Fabrics).

SLEEVES are lined with a blue silk remnant that I've had in my cupboard from the beginning of time.

I love how these patch together and add a feature to the jacket! It's economical, minimises waste, and looks so luscious!

Details

The zippers on this jacket give it an edgy look, with one at each of the sleeve hems and a separating zipper at the side front of the bodice.

I had to shorten the centre zipper to fit the jacket but couldn't reattach the nickel zipper stops. After a lot of thought, I ended up sewing small little loops of leather onto the zipper tape to act as the stops and I love how clean it makes it look!

The peplum hem gives this piece great proportion and shape, without too much flounce.

I love the short collar along the neckline, which really completes the look.

The style of this jacket means you can change up the look by having the jacket done all the way up, half up with the lapels folded back, or completely unzipped for a relaxed look.

Changes

The pattern recommends woven fabrics for version B with leather detailing on the shoulders and yoke. I omitted the extra shoulder pieces, which are appliquéd and made the whole jacket in leather.

As with my other leather jackets, I added shoulder pads to give balance and proportion and I love how strong the shoulders look with it.

I didn't add any press studs because I like the sleekness of the finished look with just the zippers.

I added bias strips to the inside hems of the bodice and sleeves so that I had something to hand stitch the lining onto. Hand stitching directly onto leather is hard work and even with a thimble is very slow going. The little gold bias strips that were added to make hand stitching easier, also give the finished project that little bit of 'extra'.

Tips for sewing with Leather

If you've decided to give leather a go and are unsure about how much to buy, MY ADVICE is to take your pattern pieces with you to the store and lay them out on the leather hides.
This way you can see exactly how many you need to buy.
Leather is expensive and each hide is different, so this really helps you get exactly what you need for your project.

CHECK OUT this post on my second leather jacket which has a very detailed list (about half way down blog post) of SEWING TIPS for working with leather.

You can also check out my other leather garments below:

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A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin) on Sep 13, 2018 at 7:12pm PDT

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#sewphotohop Day 6 - SEASONAL FAVOURITE ✋ I know us Melbournians have a bit of a rep for being a little over sensitive about winter weather, but for reals you guys it’s cold, ok? Like I think Winterfell might actually be a south-east suburb here somewhere. And there’s a guy that works at my local pub who looks an awful lot like John Snow, so. In any case, my leather jacket(s!) got a workout this winter. In fact they may be my most worn me-mades ever. Pictured here in my tan leather jacket with the prettiest silk lining. It’s also a great jacket for transitioning into spring and goes with so many outfits. WIN! - - - #winteriscoming #sewin #sew #sewing #leatherjacket #jacket #melbourne

A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin) on Sep 5, 2018 at 10:12pm PDT

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A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin) on Apr 21, 2019 at 5:11am PDT

Final Thoughts

I am stoked with how this jacket turned out and I have already gotten so much wear out of it!

The colour is versatile with the contents of my wardrobe, the shape is timeless and flattering, and every time I open my jacket I get a thrill of satisfaction when I see the colourful lining.

This is my second successful leather jacket with this pattern and I get a feeling it won't be my last :)