Thursday, 20 December 2018

Silk Organza Transparent Blouse - BurdaStyle 04/2018 #105B

Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt

One day I'll stop making transparent clothing, but it is not. this. day.

HELLO!
Just keeping it casual in this low-key look; my me-made silk organza blouse and me-made leather skirt. SO BASIC.

Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt

The Pattern

It's the Darted Sport Blouse by BurdaStyle, pattern #105B from their 04/2018 issue.

I cut a size 40 and it gave me just the right amount of ease to be fitted but not tight.  I find the BurdaStyle patterns run a bit on the smaller side, but the cut of their patterns always seems to work so well for me.

Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt

The Fabric

I made this blouse in a beautiful crisp black, silk organza from The Cloth Shop in Ivanhoe.
Silk organza is such a unique fabric with it's transparency and stiff texture. It is such a great fabric to play with volume.

I used a solid black cotton sateen from Spotlight for the button band, collar and cuffs, which added a nice contrast to the organza.

I'm loving the 'transparent fashion' look at the moment, recently using a purple silk organza to make this fancy trench coat below:



Changes

Full statement sleeves are all the rage at the moment and I'm a sucker for a fashion fad. The sleeves already had a bit of volume in the pattern, but I altered it to give even more volume. Because sometimes more is just MORE, OK?

FULLER SLEEVES - I drew three vertical lines through the pattern and cut from the bottom to the top, leaving a slight hinge in the paper at the top of the pattern. This ensured that the width of the pattern top remained the same.

I then spread out the pattern evenly and stuck it down to some paper. The bottom edge is gathered to fit the sleeve cuffs, so you can go as big as you want!


I FLAT FELLED my seams which kept the seams flat, and hid raw edges.
Overlocked seams would be more visible in this transparent shirt and I love how neat it made the shirt look on the inside.
The only exception was the armhole and sleeves seam, which I serged.

I decided to use a COTTON SATEEN FABRIC in a solid black for the collar, cuffs and centre-front closures in cotton sateen. I love how it contrasts with transparent organza, and gives it a bit of an edge.

I Finished the centre front with SNAP BUTTONS for a sleek look to the button band. The shirt already has so much detail and the hidden closures adds to the dressiness of the look.

I Used buttons and BUTTON HOLES on the cuffs (two each side) and for the collar. These areas receive the most tension so the buttons are appropriate, and it gives the shirt a little extra detail.

I didn't line the BACK YOKE.  The extra layer would have made that section darker, which I don't mind, but I didn't want to make the shirt too busy with the cotton sateen details already adding contrast. 

Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt

Love

I love the fullness of the lower half of the SLEEVES and how it contrasts with the slim upper sleeve.

The ANGLED DARTS on the bodice front are such a different and interesting way to add shape and design to this shirt.

I love the  CURVED HEM, which seems to be the perfect length on my frame.

The DOUBLE BUTTONS on the sleeve cuffs, adds that subtle bit of extra detail and is also very practical.

THAT FIT - I don't know what it is about BurdaStyle, but they just seem to suit my shape well. I rarely have to make major changes, and the fit seems to be well suited to my proportions. I don't claim to understand it but I love it

Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt


Tips

This sewing pattern is excellent and well drafted, but if you're looking for clear instructions on how to make it, you won't find it with this pattern.
I used the following online tutorials to make my sleeve plackets and collar, which I couldn't work out from the limited, unillustrated pattern instructions:

SLEEVE PLACKETS

COLLAR AND COLLAR STAND

Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Blouse
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt


Conclusion

This pattern is such a lovely design, and could be easily adapted for a slimmer sleeve if big bouncy forearms aren't your thing.

I love it in the silk organza, which would pair well with a camisole for a less conspicuous look.
They say the Melbourne uniform is 'all-black', and so this usually colourful girl is feeling suitably city proud in this get up.

With Christmas just around the corner I wanted to thank all my lovely readers for all your support and encouragement this year, and to wish you and yours a very merry and very safe festive season!!

Merry Christmas everyone!

Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt
Julia Bobbin - Silk Organza Shirt


2 comments:

  1. No, there's absolutely nothing totally extra about a silk organza shirt and leather skirt. Nothing extra there at all. ๐Ÿ˜‰ This is so fabulous!

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    Replies
    1. Ha! Right?!! So pedestrain ;) Thanks lovely lady!

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