tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-72521558432391526862024-03-16T12:10:26.286+11:00JuliaBobbinA vintage loving, fabric obsessed sewing enthusiast.Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.comBlogger130125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-73043197049442073712020-10-24T16:45:00.000+11:002020-10-24T16:45:25.916+11:00Silver Denim Jacket - Simplicity 8845<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxkf1IrlpiWxv0QPWBCF5qW4_Sd0AE1mVUIgKZcgwE1aujZ_TCKMVigz-w8x9qRxTTdvBzMGlHxjMGTeNc2vjHSuZfqOZuhjO8ubtqULUq34zUse12VG49NKUwF2dlU2Fjioh2n90yftE0/s2048/IMG_1021.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxkf1IrlpiWxv0QPWBCF5qW4_Sd0AE1mVUIgKZcgwE1aujZ_TCKMVigz-w8x9qRxTTdvBzMGlHxjMGTeNc2vjHSuZfqOZuhjO8ubtqULUq34zUse12VG49NKUwF2dlU2Fjioh2n90yftE0/s16000/IMG_1021.jpg" width="624" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ZHoxdnim7_AWLOl2azyZObGvR7nErbOuo0TRegl02aSTrEDbJviQKOEQ6KeY35LAgsgR-AL-lDJnd7jzQS-PJ5RiIebnPrrE1vYNka3-4OAIwrnZdpzKBCaWdZxzu_7oNvCVs1QiF0SQ/s2048/IMG_1010.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ZHoxdnim7_AWLOl2azyZObGvR7nErbOuo0TRegl02aSTrEDbJviQKOEQ6KeY35LAgsgR-AL-lDJnd7jzQS-PJ5RiIebnPrrE1vYNka3-4OAIwrnZdpzKBCaWdZxzu_7oNvCVs1QiF0SQ/s16000/IMG_1010.jpg" width="624" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYf_mZe2i4djZjk98HEouhr7yO6L8nt66NJApx5cRM_J5JJa_g8dGlCgsX_TKZCFlLRfKD5xmtjnB2O3e6Ee1mRE0w4O8g31gKkR-tKIky2vPBDH9VVtrCV_NiEhFQ64P_m6MUA_3buNhc/s2048/IMG_0650.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYf_mZe2i4djZjk98HEouhr7yO6L8nt66NJApx5cRM_J5JJa_g8dGlCgsX_TKZCFlLRfKD5xmtjnB2O3e6Ee1mRE0w4O8g31gKkR-tKIky2vPBDH9VVtrCV_NiEhFQ64P_m6MUA_3buNhc/s16000/IMG_0650.jpg" width="624" /></a> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Hi friends, I interrupt my tailoring posts to bring you my silver jacket, which is actually sort of a tailoring post in disguise, because hand sewn buttonholes, friends. Hand sewn buttonholes! But more on that later.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Meet the shiny new addition to my wardrobe, the classic denim jacket. But with a silver twist!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This was an incredibly fun and rewarding project, and already in my top ten makes! It's versatile, trés-chic and just a little bit fancy. Let's get into it!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> <blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CGdTnjglOLQ/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="12" style="background-color: white; background: #FFF; border-bottom-left-radius: 3px; border-bottom-right-radius: 3px; border-radius: 3px; border-top-left-radius: 3px; border-top-right-radius: 3px; border: 0px; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5) 0px 0px 1px 0px, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.15) 0px 1px 10px 0px; margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0px; width: calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding: 16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CGdTnjglOLQ/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="background-color: white; background: #FFFFFF; line-height: 0; padding: 0px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; width: 100%;" target="_blank"><div style="align-items: center; display: flex; flex-direction: row;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; 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font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;"> View this post on Instagram</div></div><div style="padding: 12.5% 0px;"></div> <div style="align-items: center; display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px;"><div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-bottom-left-radius: 50%; border-bottom-right-radius: 50%; border-radius: 50%; border-top-left-radius: 50%; border-top-right-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px); width: 12.5px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12.5px; margin-left: 2px; margin-right: 14px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-bottom-left-radius: 50%; border-bottom-right-radius: 50%; border-radius: 50%; border-top-left-radius: 50%; border-top-right-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px); width: 12.5px;"></div></div><div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-bottom-left-radius: 50%; border-bottom-right-radius: 50%; border-radius: 50%; border-top-left-radius: 50%; border-top-right-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"></div> <div style="border-bottom-color: transparent; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 2px; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; border-left-color: rgb(244, 244, 244); border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 6px; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-top-color: transparent; border-top-style: solid; border-top-width: 2px; border-top: 2px solid transparent; height: 0px; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg); width: 0px;"></div></div><div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style="border-right-color: transparent; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 8px; border-right: 8px solid transparent; border-top-color: rgb(244, 244, 244); border-top-style: solid; border-top-width: 8px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; transform: translateY(16px); width: 0px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; transform: translateY(-4px); width: 16px;"></div> <div style="border-left-color: transparent; border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 8px; border-left: 8px solid transparent; border-top-color: rgb(244, 244, 244); border-top-style: solid; border-top-width: 8px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; height: 0px; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px); width: 0px;"></div></div></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-bottom-left-radius: 4px; border-bottom-right-radius: 4px; border-radius: 4px; border-top-left-radius: 4px; border-top-right-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-bottom-left-radius: 4px; border-bottom-right-radius: 4px; border-radius: 4px; border-top-left-radius: 4px; border-top-right-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"></div></div></a><p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0px 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CGdTnjglOLQ/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2020-10-17T20:23:31+00:00" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Oct 17, 2020 at 1:23pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The Pattern</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The denim jacket is <a href="https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/women/jackets--coats/simplicity-sewing-pattern-s8845-mimi-g-misses-mens-and-teens-jean-jacket/">simplicity #8845</a> by the perpetually stylish Mimi G and Norris Danta Ford.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's sized XS-XL and I made a cropped version (more details below) in a size small.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Fabric</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">10oz bull denim from <a href="https://thefabricstoreonline.com">The Fabric Store</a> in 'nickel'.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Jeans Buttons from <a href="https://buttonmania.com.au/products/silver-with-wreath-star-jean-buttons-rivets-tack-buttons?_pos=6&_sid=afdde69b2&_ss=r">Button Mania</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_nXMA5L8197Y0uO1YsUJkwiZRLp_4ROXM-JTIVfJhQOyIPK0UGYwJi7oXFfxUg0DfcvHwODrssKVIFt9wJWH_V4c1dYfacszneol4Q5hoCu3dE1M6-PpqoOkV26zXqAMpvP8VVRNsOT_/s2048/IMG_1016.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_nXMA5L8197Y0uO1YsUJkwiZRLp_4ROXM-JTIVfJhQOyIPK0UGYwJi7oXFfxUg0DfcvHwODrssKVIFt9wJWH_V4c1dYfacszneol4Q5hoCu3dE1M6-PpqoOkV26zXqAMpvP8VVRNsOT_/s16000/IMG_1016.jpg" width="624" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh9T0rEGiEyUJtGOjrT3G_UEdxIR7EunDfQIEi_9gtzhyz3lS7GOgX80wPyO0zdGnii52Q8Ohr7jcEOb7zpHZxmZp7HQ7OOJZSVAnLz_1nkwHFoLkVt7Kq450LuLUEqLV4bxWYm8c8RkFS/s2048/IMG_1023.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh9T0rEGiEyUJtGOjrT3G_UEdxIR7EunDfQIEi_9gtzhyz3lS7GOgX80wPyO0zdGnii52Q8Ohr7jcEOb7zpHZxmZp7HQ7OOJZSVAnLz_1nkwHFoLkVt7Kq450LuLUEqLV4bxWYm8c8RkFS/s16000/IMG_1023.jpg" width="624" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Hand Sewn Buttonholes</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">If you've visited my instagram page recently, you may have noticed that I am head over heals for hand sewn buttonholes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Legend has it, it takes 100 buttonholes before you master your first. As there are eleven buttonholes on this jacket (normally 12 but I shortened the length) I thought this would be a perfect jacket to practise this new skill on. I'm still well under 100, but I have made many more since this silver jacket, and I learn something new with each buttonhole I make!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To make my buttonholes I used:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Gütermann agreman gimp</li><li>Güterman silk buttonhole twist thread</li></ul></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CB1Xi5Zgy7z/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="12" style="background-color: white; background: #FFF; border-bottom-left-radius: 3px; border-bottom-right-radius: 3px; border-radius: 3px; border-top-left-radius: 3px; border-top-right-radius: 3px; border: 0px; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5) 0px 0px 1px 0px, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.15) 0px 1px 10px 0px; margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0px; width: calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding: 16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CB1Xi5Zgy7z/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="background-color: white; background: #FFFFFF; line-height: 0; padding: 0px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; width: 100%;" target="_blank"> <div style="align-items: center; display: flex; flex-direction: row;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-bottom-left-radius: 50%; border-bottom-right-radius: 50%; border-radius: 50%; border-top-left-radius: 50%; border-top-right-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-bottom-left-radius: 4px; border-bottom-right-radius: 4px; border-radius: 4px; border-top-left-radius: 4px; border-top-right-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; 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font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;"> View this post on Instagram</div></div><div style="padding: 12.5% 0px;"></div> <div style="align-items: center; display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px;"><div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-bottom-left-radius: 50%; border-bottom-right-radius: 50%; border-radius: 50%; border-top-left-radius: 50%; border-top-right-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px); width: 12.5px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12.5px; margin-left: 2px; margin-right: 14px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-bottom-left-radius: 50%; border-bottom-right-radius: 50%; border-radius: 50%; border-top-left-radius: 50%; border-top-right-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px); width: 12.5px;"></div></div><div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; 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flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; transform: translateY(-4px); width: 16px;"></div> <div style="border-left-color: transparent; border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 8px; border-left: 8px solid transparent; border-top-color: rgb(244, 244, 244); border-top-style: solid; border-top-width: 8px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; height: 0px; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px); width: 0px;"></div></div></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-bottom-left-radius: 4px; border-bottom-right-radius: 4px; border-radius: 4px; border-top-left-radius: 4px; border-top-right-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-bottom-left-radius: 4px; border-bottom-right-radius: 4px; border-radius: 4px; border-top-left-radius: 4px; border-top-right-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"></div></div></a><p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0px 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CB1Xi5Zgy7z/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2020-06-24T22:02:21+00:00" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Jun 24, 2020 at 3:02pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Top Stitching</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The top stitching really adds to this jacket, and I loved seeing how it made everything come together!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>I used the same thread (silk buttonhole twist) that I used for the buttonholes, but used a regular sew-all polyester thread in the bobbin. This makes it so much less likely for your machine to get jammed up with the thread, you just need to remember do all the top stitching from the right side up.</li><li>I changed the stitch length to 2.8</li><li>And finally I loosened the thread tension on machine.</li></ul><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-VMpJVqGUNQH15FRp7TzyZg7w4WhbC_Ko4eSqqrCm1fMU6FCEegfg4orReEFPlWzycAtfNk9yegog9ERNzWPNyFsiAD2e3L2ecek_k7HOCSbsX2MgGlD1rxXxV7nKXo_rZmH2mAlH07H_/s2048/IMG_1009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-VMpJVqGUNQH15FRp7TzyZg7w4WhbC_Ko4eSqqrCm1fMU6FCEegfg4orReEFPlWzycAtfNk9yegog9ERNzWPNyFsiAD2e3L2ecek_k7HOCSbsX2MgGlD1rxXxV7nKXo_rZmH2mAlH07H_/s16000/IMG_1009.jpg" width="624" /></a></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghPH-HpXeDAxjcqK2LoqAj95czCl3VV9U02iI33QviaeSXI4P4u_oQ1mlqp18VNKyLePhN4tDkqK_rb5omzFcHfagtAea9EzfDqx_Vp2Lxs5ePfRMV3qSd_40kKxUtnHcgTR8PJ3uxxz99/s2048/IMG_0659.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghPH-HpXeDAxjcqK2LoqAj95czCl3VV9U02iI33QviaeSXI4P4u_oQ1mlqp18VNKyLePhN4tDkqK_rb5omzFcHfagtAea9EzfDqx_Vp2Lxs5ePfRMV3qSd_40kKxUtnHcgTR8PJ3uxxz99/s16000/IMG_0659.jpg" width="624" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn2BQ7DMbIpShiGys3e3i85kUnyqzrqnPXMao5BXcKPUEkPAt7mjAjTk7GEziDYnJ4PMoXYg99x5XNQhS9pvoYRORPIFzpdGx-xP2MGwN9cBhs3NwjgYBun5OB_2VC9HwFDitp4nHzm4kc/s2048/IMG_1017.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn2BQ7DMbIpShiGys3e3i85kUnyqzrqnPXMao5BXcKPUEkPAt7mjAjTk7GEziDYnJ4PMoXYg99x5XNQhS9pvoYRORPIFzpdGx-xP2MGwN9cBhs3NwjgYBun5OB_2VC9HwFDitp4nHzm4kc/s16000/IMG_1017.jpg" width="624" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Changes</span></b></div><div><br /></div><div>The biggest change I made was to crop the jacket.</div><div>I cut along the waist line marking on the jacket front, and attached the waistband as normal at this new point. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Note:</b> The waistline marking on the back is different to the front pieces which must be an error. Ignore the back markings and cut along the front, if you want to achieve the same length as I have.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Size</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Because I shortened the pattern, I didn't have to worry about the jacket fitting my hips, so I cut a size small. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The style of this jacket is broader at the shoulders, and narrower at the hips, which is not a problem if you plan on wearing the jacket undone, but if you want the option of doing it up, you may want to adjust the pattern to allow extra room at the hips.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I plan on making this again in the regular length, however I would wear it undone so this wouldn't bother me.</div><div><br /></div><b>Pockets and Pocket Flaps</b><div>The pattern has you fold under the seam allowance of the POCKET PIECE, and then attach it to the jacket front. The problem with this, is that when you lift up the pocket flap, you can see the raw edge. Instead of folding the pocket under, I overlocked the edges and it gave a lot cleaner and less bulky finish, and meant no raw edges poked through.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>I also sewed the POCKET flap with only a 1cm allowance instead of the standard 1.5cm. This allowed it to slightly overlap the opening of the pocket. Without it, you are likely to see gaps at the side of the pockets, and it also means the top stitching of the flap and the pocket line up perfectly.<br /><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg68VYxh72qjUGheA4kiN9A_-gsRvLAiog8ca4GAnFXQW3jr09shBoWHEn8hXG6ZYx-gBdID9ep0IqlNXsE50fbDXHKuw7xy7gwxFDLeW27uO8yuW67Ry6xiXdP2LlQrRUhegLKleMjstAL/s2048/IMG_1018.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg68VYxh72qjUGheA4kiN9A_-gsRvLAiog8ca4GAnFXQW3jr09shBoWHEn8hXG6ZYx-gBdID9ep0IqlNXsE50fbDXHKuw7xy7gwxFDLeW27uO8yuW67Ry6xiXdP2LlQrRUhegLKleMjstAL/s16000/IMG_1018.jpg" width="624" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">See how the pocket edge is flat and not folded under?</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiunbc3zuethTqrQlZxNfRYv7iiZPTWz2dE82Vp5ZXMmrYUMXGBj-QsfBxKAVRZ28jQC_OApSMemN53x2nOWgpMUY_CIgUbB1vmL56GIc_KdmRwdIFhwRmz5QWKeLUQlqHc8G5JkHgcRhva/s2048/IMG_1020.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiunbc3zuethTqrQlZxNfRYv7iiZPTWz2dE82Vp5ZXMmrYUMXGBj-QsfBxKAVRZ28jQC_OApSMemN53x2nOWgpMUY_CIgUbB1vmL56GIc_KdmRwdIFhwRmz5QWKeLUQlqHc8G5JkHgcRhva/s16000/IMG_1020.jpg" width="624" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">No raw edges poking through the opening.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizTRAcZ-YXiJ6xmo6vr9apEGKKZC_wGkOm_1QRUJzS_ktuGDCcvemkl9fLsshpq7hbTmQI54Gg7-24UqESf-e2qQEz9eZw1EFmaFa5n3EwS2lF3GY2kT30UXChAUafKGAuoFckRArj6Xhy/s2048/IMG_0653.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizTRAcZ-YXiJ6xmo6vr9apEGKKZC_wGkOm_1QRUJzS_ktuGDCcvemkl9fLsshpq7hbTmQI54Gg7-24UqESf-e2qQEz9eZw1EFmaFa5n3EwS2lF3GY2kT30UXChAUafKGAuoFckRArj6Xhy/s16000/IMG_0653.jpg" width="624" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Flaps cover the opening and the top stitching lines up.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Collars and Button Tabs</b></div><div>Normally, when we sew button tabs and collars, we sew two mirrored pieces together, right side to right side, and then turn them out.</div><div><br /></div><div>Because this 10oz fabric is very thick and bulky, for small areas that have little stress on them but are more decorative, I do the following. I iron under the seam allowance of each piece to get nice sharp edges and points, and then top stitch them together. That way they don't get stretched, warped and bulky from being turned right side out. Made such a massive difference!</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifFRQDyL2ga3vQ66YLLQwcFmfPocHElyHVJtbKOgsvUrtbL0it7TTWWuZ_SSkS9bY8IV437mknZL5JjoRSkQrjgmzudRI0ztsqfeyUE-MdjkpxUVwQnt40pEUiUQCMo5d2DrIxWFbpaWTw/s2048/IMG_0568.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifFRQDyL2ga3vQ66YLLQwcFmfPocHElyHVJtbKOgsvUrtbL0it7TTWWuZ_SSkS9bY8IV437mknZL5JjoRSkQrjgmzudRI0ztsqfeyUE-MdjkpxUVwQnt40pEUiUQCMo5d2DrIxWFbpaWTw/s16000/IMG_0568.jpg" width="624" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Seam allowances are folded under and then top stitched together. See how sharp and clean the edges and corners are?!!</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Seam Finishings</b></div><div>I finished the seams with flat felled seams on the inside, with one exception. The horizontal seam where the jacket front meets the top yoke was too bulky in this fabric to flat fell, so I finished the seam with an overlocker and then top stitched into place as normal.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidi5ncakmF10QmsZlNEdyXkRZ_lSKLlgTEVesiSevMTW7OOoNEZ240_4J5KtcH-TF8X6BwQinbQOEY3hIk_l042Bg-I2_EPn9-1h_CIful88QTDVPpEv-bMrU7L3MivK6NvIjDGnP3U-C6/s2048/IMG_0656.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidi5ncakmF10QmsZlNEdyXkRZ_lSKLlgTEVesiSevMTW7OOoNEZ240_4J5KtcH-TF8X6BwQinbQOEY3hIk_l042Bg-I2_EPn9-1h_CIful88QTDVPpEv-bMrU7L3MivK6NvIjDGnP3U-C6/s16000/IMG_0656.jpg" width="624" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CCjnkMmg7fK/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="12" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CCjnkMmg7fK/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; 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font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"> View this post on Instagram</div></div><div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"><div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"></div></div><div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"></div></div><div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"></div></div></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"></div></div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CCjnkMmg7fK/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2020-07-12T21:07:24+00:00">Jul 12, 2020 at 2:07pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Final Thoughts</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I love the oversized shape of this jacket with the dropped shoulders, and I especially love this in the cropped version, which makes it so versatile with so many things in my closet.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is a great pattern by Mimi and Norris, and Norris has even filmed a step by step sew-a-long to walk you through the construction, which is super helpful.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I can see this pattern, and certainly this silver jacket, becoming a regular fixture of my makes and wardrobe.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoVeJ8wccUxSbZTloCBbaN3QGXyTR3J0K7vVuKL6qa9o7i6Bjr5s6q-IFJvZ2Dj7j1v_-g0v5GDx4-H4_hx5uAHaWsmugyE5z5XWhAj8ANQocHhDPCv4zPiz59EwHmS7OxguSkkD_wGi0d/s2048/IMG_0631.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoVeJ8wccUxSbZTloCBbaN3QGXyTR3J0K7vVuKL6qa9o7i6Bjr5s6q-IFJvZ2Dj7j1v_-g0v5GDx4-H4_hx5uAHaWsmugyE5z5XWhAj8ANQocHhDPCv4zPiz59EwHmS7OxguSkkD_wGi0d/s16000/IMG_0631.jpg" width="624" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ0fQd1qIhNpT2i-WN17qqeJiwRm1PQuv49fvvDSQs8ecodig3eHY5PhFJ-M3rWx-pevLFRHiqwvsG3C4aYcagsXHpNA83tVGVqTqJrcMvPBfaQmHsfHVma_mD39oOg6T5V1ycdkRxG3N_/s2048/IMG_1015.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ0fQd1qIhNpT2i-WN17qqeJiwRm1PQuv49fvvDSQs8ecodig3eHY5PhFJ-M3rWx-pevLFRHiqwvsG3C4aYcagsXHpNA83tVGVqTqJrcMvPBfaQmHsfHVma_mD39oOg6T5V1ycdkRxG3N_/s16000/IMG_1015.jpg" width="624" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj74ECVyJUBUZvzzPcNfhQpqvkA3koXFKE0ivv_zbD1UpjXSY3_pWuEyISTlr7eT4cIhtpXSEbi5JGoGrFLEuOPVOJOAtmX5ismQW-TZkfPItnV5usfkEYw6gnn-MzWx-QLR4OI2HVj9qTZ/s2048/IMG_1012.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj74ECVyJUBUZvzzPcNfhQpqvkA3koXFKE0ivv_zbD1UpjXSY3_pWuEyISTlr7eT4cIhtpXSEbi5JGoGrFLEuOPVOJOAtmX5ismQW-TZkfPItnV5usfkEYw6gnn-MzWx-QLR4OI2HVj9qTZ/s16000/IMG_1012.jpg" width="624" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirbn7P8CHowrvQSvldTThyCwaL7KsmIgsnvg4qD4yf50US94cw00uDqqg6FfjdqFI5zAInFuLCSeQ2pJOu9RG5WqYIfSrqvgBGeSDTsDkdILMdW2R7_FIVQkvoYC7483DLRNuXKS4MOS8x/s2048/IMG_0657.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirbn7P8CHowrvQSvldTThyCwaL7KsmIgsnvg4qD4yf50US94cw00uDqqg6FfjdqFI5zAInFuLCSeQ2pJOu9RG5WqYIfSrqvgBGeSDTsDkdILMdW2R7_FIVQkvoYC7483DLRNuXKS4MOS8x/s16000/IMG_0657.jpg" width="624" /></a></div></div>Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-69427985752158853262020-06-24T10:18:00.000+10:002020-06-24T10:21:07.483+10:00Tailored Blazer PART 2 - Welt and Flap Pockets + Sleeves with Mitred Vents<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNpICfyfieKxWHvDBZyAvnS7kdhQqXK0gWFxts9YAXmMZoRoneyQ9tgouMm7V5KP8u_O2tv1wSBHo6Cn7Qqxb9m7jMVZqdyMmQuptOWqdwcUvF4_cRm8QKLwvDZWChoxFQUtuP2FlIWGfD/s1600/IMG_9727.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNpICfyfieKxWHvDBZyAvnS7kdhQqXK0gWFxts9YAXmMZoRoneyQ9tgouMm7V5KP8u_O2tv1wSBHo6Cn7Qqxb9m7jMVZqdyMmQuptOWqdwcUvF4_cRm8QKLwvDZWChoxFQUtuP2FlIWGfD/s1600/IMG_9727.JPG" width="624" /></a></div>
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Hi sewing friends!<br />
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I'm currently working on my hand tailored, double breasted blazer and I'm documenting the work as I go!<br />
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If you missed the first two posts you can catch up here:<br />
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/05/tailoring-resources-for-bespoke-hand.html?m=0">Tailoring Resources for a hand sewn bespoke blazer</a> - how I learnt what I know so far through books and blogs.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/05/tailored-double-breasted-blazer-part-1.html?m=0">Part 1 - Muslin fit, collar and canvas prep</a></li>
</ol>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Sleeves</span></b></div>
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This sleeve has mitred corners and functional sleeve vents because if you're going to take the time to sew a tailored garment you may as well level all the way up.<br />
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I extended the sleeve vents to 11.5cm from the hem, to allow room for four buttons and buttonholes.<br />
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I interfaced the sleeve hem and vents with cotton pocketing fabric. Previously I've used hair canvas, but the softness of the cotton appealed to me for a strong but less rigid finish. I permanently basted the interfacing along the top and bottom edges using silk thread and being careful that the stitches didn't show through to the right side.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLUZP_Td0-gnRAvFP-5t1em9j6CBrLctr7ujotF9viziYQ9SKladVngWQS5wczy7dCYlJc4uuIih6puBHO75frALCfPkaDUg0F5bQMxpBYKCXxx_5YYmXOpIHRlmnaVRa9ezrxJnAglaRE/s1600/IMG_9734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLUZP_Td0-gnRAvFP-5t1em9j6CBrLctr7ujotF9viziYQ9SKladVngWQS5wczy7dCYlJc4uuIih6puBHO75frALCfPkaDUg0F5bQMxpBYKCXxx_5YYmXOpIHRlmnaVRa9ezrxJnAglaRE/s1600/IMG_9734.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cotton pocketing fabric hand sewn along the sleeve vent and cuff, falling 1cm below the hem fold.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL3kl095JMepIcq56nAXRYTCZiuyJYn_VYHVNMYbk0bwLypS8Y-c2aZ-VN9xqV1Gjmbd9Kem0htcgjOjdoRqjvNKDNmL6wZCl5rz2vaHxzy8ooSgcV9QzWKaK9zKkkLkD5cxWrSnRcM28j/s1600/IMG_9735.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL3kl095JMepIcq56nAXRYTCZiuyJYn_VYHVNMYbk0bwLypS8Y-c2aZ-VN9xqV1Gjmbd9Kem0htcgjOjdoRqjvNKDNmL6wZCl5rz2vaHxzy8ooSgcV9QzWKaK9zKkkLkD5cxWrSnRcM28j/s1600/IMG_9735.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silk thread is used to permanently, and invisibly attach the interfacing to the sleeve.</td></tr>
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<b>Mitred Sleeves BY HAND</b></div>
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I've mitred some corners in my time. That neat cornered finish, is visually pleasing, and also helps to distribute bulk evenly. </div>
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Sewing a mitred corner is not complicated, but demands precision. All of my hems with mitred corners have been done by machine, with a considerable amount of time taken to ensure everything lined up. UNTIL NOW.</div>
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For the first time, I tried my hand (ha!) at mitring the corners of the vents by hand and let me tell you, it's a game changer! Instead of spending considerable time calculating the folds, the stitch line and where to cut, you just iron along the sleeve hem and the seam allowance and then fold the corner under. So simple! </div>
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It's an easy slip stitch or ladder stitch in place, and visually you can see that it's exactly in the right place. No sitting in front of the machine, with fingers crossed hoping that you've got it right, folding it out and realising the hem line is now off.</div>
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When you sew it by hand, especially in fine fabrics like suiting fabrics, you don't trim the corner. This means you can shorten or lengthen the hem in future if needed, and the additional fabric actually helps reinforce the area. Unless you have really thick fabric like a heavy wool coating, you should not need to cut the excess.<br />
It's also a really short seam, so hand stitching it takes about one minute! Le simple!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRAlKiwC6n8jXF6gd_Up6UVaNuWSOsw_q6KykDElEG0o32t0er7bjCF-Mp3vXZcsz0DVNvU7tX2aE6aoqEn2FyfkaKG5Yq2fM2SMsV11RYuYpuoZsDsSgRUhfDgXXmy7kMghsQXL5il_u6/s1600/IMG_9737.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRAlKiwC6n8jXF6gd_Up6UVaNuWSOsw_q6KykDElEG0o32t0er7bjCF-Mp3vXZcsz0DVNvU7tX2aE6aoqEn2FyfkaKG5Yq2fM2SMsV11RYuYpuoZsDsSgRUhfDgXXmy7kMghsQXL5il_u6/s1600/IMG_9737.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ta-DAH! Mitred corner sewn by hand!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh39XP7b-FDh9CZ06U6XXPxwuSP_S_WHQ_pVWW6Y30266jLd63vEWCjow9s_r0CJfEq28RooRpmTLxqhWeq-V96tTq0RjLs0_cqvKujDrD1dyAEg8_uSRja4Gp0IrgPKadW2JhkLEdsHDAG/s1600/IMG_0781.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh39XP7b-FDh9CZ06U6XXPxwuSP_S_WHQ_pVWW6Y30266jLd63vEWCjow9s_r0CJfEq28RooRpmTLxqhWeq-V96tTq0RjLs0_cqvKujDrD1dyAEg8_uSRja4Gp0IrgPKadW2JhkLEdsHDAG/s1600/IMG_0781.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So clean, so precise. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjclAKkKRnV6xaS9zf_pyVm2qN_WVLyy4kImn8S9-hOJ5x7AdwfE6gv0jezTwci72PZjWDpQ5YjOv1n5MZTlh9TyQvGcR_hbbkNqWt3xTtgWnsVcdoLPXqYqmo2dU3uCX_1IHblHnqVx5xR/s1600/IMG_0784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjclAKkKRnV6xaS9zf_pyVm2qN_WVLyy4kImn8S9-hOJ5x7AdwfE6gv0jezTwci72PZjWDpQ5YjOv1n5MZTlh9TyQvGcR_hbbkNqWt3xTtgWnsVcdoLPXqYqmo2dU3uCX_1IHblHnqVx5xR/s1600/IMG_0784.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The vent in it's closed position.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Lining the Sleeves</b></div>
<div>
There are a lot of firsts for sleeves in this jacket and this time I lined the sleeves BEFORE attaching them to the jacket, another game changer.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
When you add lining by hand, the order that you attach your garment pieces together has many more options.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I sewed the vertical seams of the sleeve lining together first, and then attached them to the garment at the sleeve hem. It's so much easier working on the hem of sleeves when they are not already attached to the jacket body!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I then hand basted the lining to the sleeves about 3/4 up from the hem, in preparation for attaching to the garment.</div>
<div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgil8KjNXoWexGFEPOCXzeKIgdqSSL3jc-JbXaxFq9rQyFundMjj5FCyJ2S0-AJb0fmg9tvJejqZqjRhD3JJaA8TGWYQa4i25-5dH2JJhuVQUB_avmfxezah41x3P1qaaZK6SynRTQGFlKq/s1600/IMG_0785.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgil8KjNXoWexGFEPOCXzeKIgdqSSL3jc-JbXaxFq9rQyFundMjj5FCyJ2S0-AJb0fmg9tvJejqZqjRhD3JJaA8TGWYQa4i25-5dH2JJhuVQUB_avmfxezah41x3P1qaaZK6SynRTQGFlKq/s1600/IMG_0785.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hand mitred hem, with silk lining hand sewn to the sleeve hem.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZpcB9oYOaIVtjgqEvn2Y3gFF9e-Ho95V_i-BcJ739PnbXsUPlJnD1vsZJ1WuN4zFpqJgXGyimBuG3XT4Jzfl-uYljymreGOgQF6eq1tUYNlYqQ9p9DlLvqOhxT7-F6sk6595kQCzgRn4/s1600/IMG_0783.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZpcB9oYOaIVtjgqEvn2Y3gFF9e-Ho95V_i-BcJ739PnbXsUPlJnD1vsZJ1WuN4zFpqJgXGyimBuG3XT4Jzfl-uYljymreGOgQF6eq1tUYNlYqQ9p9DlLvqOhxT7-F6sk6595kQCzgRn4/s1600/IMG_0783.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is there anything prettier. I ask you.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Pockets</span></b></div>
<div>
<br />
My jacket consists of three pockets, one single welt breast pocket, and two double welt flap pockets.<br />
All of the pockets are functional, with the welts and flaps individually cut out to pattern match the surrounding fabric.<br />
<br />
I drafted the flap pockets AFTER I'd created the welts, to ensure that they fit accurately. They are slightly longer in length for a snug fit, and each flap has been decorated with a pick stitch by hand.<br />
<br />
The backs of the pockets were reinforced with cotton fabric, instead of iron on interfacing. This gives strong support, without warping the garment fabric with the adhesive.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<b>Single Welt Chest Pocket</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFnMOBv4_p8RpAJAlOkT2LB-Ut0O6mrSM9mACJbBgXTjKxlL2TPK7F24dux26zCdUgXHH6bdDxTixGFw9xcKSPCquiTtXzwaiEsC5Qoicv9lsjIjUtfpun2ANxzFbQV5v5zjxcGBC-2jTB/s1600/IMG_9791.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFnMOBv4_p8RpAJAlOkT2LB-Ut0O6mrSM9mACJbBgXTjKxlL2TPK7F24dux26zCdUgXHH6bdDxTixGFw9xcKSPCquiTtXzwaiEsC5Qoicv9lsjIjUtfpun2ANxzFbQV5v5zjxcGBC-2jTB/s1600/IMG_9791.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basted close. Pockets are basted close so that they don't get pulled or distorted while you are constructing the rest of the garment. Everything is held in place exactly where it needs to be.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipvesnLaK1pMQYaHdPdjnUwts1a9SL68tdpY1gwfIjnzD1uzJXj6G9x1yucZ4-d2r2rUtErubrC3TSo4ahXnRuclJxBtkLqQoXVLgVgZto6rGathax5F2hwUzfJOsyro2xgFKVCpkJ0Qq2/s1600/IMG_9795.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipvesnLaK1pMQYaHdPdjnUwts1a9SL68tdpY1gwfIjnzD1uzJXj6G9x1yucZ4-d2r2rUtErubrC3TSo4ahXnRuclJxBtkLqQoXVLgVgZto6rGathax5F2hwUzfJOsyro2xgFKVCpkJ0Qq2/s1600/IMG_9795.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The back of the lined welt pocket. The sides of the welt are cross stitched to the jacket from the back, so that you can't see any stitches from the front.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b>Double Welt and Flap Pocket</b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><br /></b>
I decided to make double welt flap pockets for the jacket body and drafted my own flaps.<br />
Even if you are using a sewing pattern that provides a pattern piece for the flap, I find it's much easier to sew the welts on your jacket FIRST, and then remeasure the opening.<br />
Often the size changes a little and we want to make pocket flaps that fit perfectly, rather than forcing a pocket flap in that doesn't match the finished welt pocket.<br />
<br />
Before making the welts, I reinforced the back of it with light cotton fabric, which I basted into place.<br />
When tailoring a garment, I avoid glue on interfacing as much as possible, which can warp the fabric over time.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmjXQ7DMA1Sax3MIUm8-_pu390oHzkTPyiOcfHwl55H8kg8Zj1mttuFEdTHR1bb1bCVLhS5Ra15_vFqpsiB7HGmKXfpnfBTA7oGtQPHavaKV3MFbIdx1am6061dsEU44NbxhMCQySCZa7y/s1600/IMG_9806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmjXQ7DMA1Sax3MIUm8-_pu390oHzkTPyiOcfHwl55H8kg8Zj1mttuFEdTHR1bb1bCVLhS5Ra15_vFqpsiB7HGmKXfpnfBTA7oGtQPHavaKV3MFbIdx1am6061dsEU44NbxhMCQySCZa7y/s1600/IMG_9806.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cotton pocketing basted to the back of wrong side of the garment where we will make the welts.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-M9lHi6qmuh01sDFgQvQmykANL00kbtMDnfzkiPz3MkCUSN3tvjIHtA3d-UTTZIhPGnlbBZbJlCizxMjCcAbMlNqjFEEc5nGwvYOD5rIVC2wSmUYvEg_INc3MeTzjfFR4IKsZG_dxip5x/s1600/IMG_9807.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-M9lHi6qmuh01sDFgQvQmykANL00kbtMDnfzkiPz3MkCUSN3tvjIHtA3d-UTTZIhPGnlbBZbJlCizxMjCcAbMlNqjFEEc5nGwvYOD5rIVC2wSmUYvEg_INc3MeTzjfFR4IKsZG_dxip5x/s1600/IMG_9807.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the right side. You can see some rough chalk guide lines and the basting stitches that hold the cotton and garment together.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I then cut two pieces of fabric for the welts, which i took the time to match to the plaid. My pieces were 20 x 5cm. I then hand basted them right side of welt to right side of garment, making sure to baste close to placement line, with the raw edges butting together.<br />
<br />
Once I was satisfied with their position, I machine stitched each piece down 6mm from the raw edge/placement line.<br />
When machine stitching turn your speed right down and reduce the length of your stitches. You want to make each line exactly the same length so there is no puckering at the corners of your welt pocket.<br />
<br />
From the wrong side, slash along the placement line (the centre between the two stitching lines) to about 1cm before each end of the stitching lines and snip right up to the end of your stitching line to make a 'Y' shape.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS4dxhdpvpGk5lIBQyIxA24M2t4NWh-OJNazZYy5vEdzHTN9mzOLmkbakzCQrAlPh_6XZWz0AMDm6VFw1VyXRrSNn2vQDEo-y3hgaASXlWo2N2krfQbdhqvqvDgHbAl5BaGQf4BPysZ1tr/s1600/IMG_9812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS4dxhdpvpGk5lIBQyIxA24M2t4NWh-OJNazZYy5vEdzHTN9mzOLmkbakzCQrAlPh_6XZWz0AMDm6VFw1VyXRrSNn2vQDEo-y3hgaASXlWo2N2krfQbdhqvqvDgHbAl5BaGQf4BPysZ1tr/s1600/IMG_9812.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">hand basted into position, close to the placement line with raw edges touching.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAo0J7LCtwQ2vPCwpFHMSh1pTQWiMYG5Oh7PUdA5AeSYJWZYA6eOyrmpy28a-14bXC4XkcnXQHSlMzaobGdj4wtwzB-oe7TycNbX_XoAbFRCA9sQPKErj2EXkrp2qark35RiXRjLllTviS/s1600/IMG_9813.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAo0J7LCtwQ2vPCwpFHMSh1pTQWiMYG5Oh7PUdA5AeSYJWZYA6eOyrmpy28a-14bXC4XkcnXQHSlMzaobGdj4wtwzB-oe7TycNbX_XoAbFRCA9sQPKErj2EXkrp2qark35RiXRjLllTviS/s1600/IMG_9813.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the back of the garment! Take it slow and make sure each row is exactly the same length. Go back and add a few extra stitches if you need to!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The flaps are then pushed through to the wrong side, wrapping around the seam allowance. The seam allowance stays inside the welt as extra reinforcement, and dictates the shape of the welt.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6GWXFHMlm7riDyaAcqg9jqQCYlZwltiJTXozzLyROJ4wo0Ju0bNjmVwdvf8SvGUHhZX59u6Hn-QfosdO8aOXIg6GeAOL6KljaVtDVa9fxi1hwTBYNFpYEHASPGBlmMMPzdfRUAXaO7ZaV/s1600/IMG_0790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6GWXFHMlm7riDyaAcqg9jqQCYlZwltiJTXozzLyROJ4wo0Ju0bNjmVwdvf8SvGUHhZX59u6Hn-QfosdO8aOXIg6GeAOL6KljaVtDVa9fxi1hwTBYNFpYEHASPGBlmMMPzdfRUAXaO7ZaV/s1600/IMG_0790.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The seam allowance becomes both the guide for your welts, and a nice stable filler, which is why the welt pieces DON'T need to be reinforced with glue on interfacing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicQD8WyaoLsdeMf3DOSLyZOEnya1b6jJCwz6JjZEM1dj2epiUt1nfVxy9vL4_1s9CqQZwQ8zXUz3DkBvGkXzyaeKCs9igqSEqAOtASErP0o1SjT_F03feCorsdv-yPN2lceKhN-R2UoTtb/s1600/IMG_9815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicQD8WyaoLsdeMf3DOSLyZOEnya1b6jJCwz6JjZEM1dj2epiUt1nfVxy9vL4_1s9CqQZwQ8zXUz3DkBvGkXzyaeKCs9igqSEqAOtASErP0o1SjT_F03feCorsdv-yPN2lceKhN-R2UoTtb/s1600/IMG_9815.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Both welts pushed through to wrong side, wrapping around welt seam allowance.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Once welts have been turned to the inside, we stitch them into place by hand using silk thread.<br />
From the right side, stitch along the seam line with small back stitches, going all the way through to catch the back of the welt to the garment.<br />
<br />
Sewing the welt in place by hand is quick (it's just a little seam!) and allows you to be exact and precise. I find it much easier to do this by hand as there is so much more control, and it's so much less visible than 'stitching in the ditch' on a machine.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFw5IodrosUJysE9cSz76Fq34o0B6fup5N0hPIHiMdJb5RYTL5Iik_q41YAypLu8AsTHQa-JS3w7cIgYfNJaOegCaFedVXe7NncEeqzDM4wiNeo2tsoi75fcavIkzfuHqbws3Gkw1N5gyG/s1600/IMG_9816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFw5IodrosUJysE9cSz76Fq34o0B6fup5N0hPIHiMdJb5RYTL5Iik_q41YAypLu8AsTHQa-JS3w7cIgYfNJaOegCaFedVXe7NncEeqzDM4wiNeo2tsoi75fcavIkzfuHqbws3Gkw1N5gyG/s1600/IMG_9816.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Both welts hand stitched in place along the length of the seam, not yet ironed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Drafting the Flap</b><br />
<br />
Once the welts are in place, it's time to measure the opening and draft a flap!<br />
<br />
These are super easy. If you can draw a rectangle and own a ruler, you can draft a pocket flap.<br />
As with everything in fashion, lengths of pocket flaps vary depending on style and personal preference, but I made my pocket flaps 5cm long.<br />
<ol>
<li>Measure the opening of your welt and then add 3mm to that measurement. You want the flap just slightly longer than the opening, so that there are no gaps and it curves nicely around the body.</li>
<li>Draw a rectangle with your measurements (including the extra 3mm), mine was 14.5 x 5cm.</li>
<li>In the bottom right corner of the flap, extend the horizontal line out by 6mm. </li>
<li>Join the top right corner to this new point. This will be the back corner of your flap.</li>
<li>Add a 6mm seam allowance at the bottom and sides of flap, and a larger seam allowance at the top.</li>
</ol>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY4bf8mBSYplIsFT3NougfySRNH9t8o7azjU12Fej7wzV462wcvGqaBcZspnkNMGD-TQRN44ent0769gKxaI1wYw5asohCtdp1NPetcjGr-Oi-Q8LxV3vtPjOVmsw_MoApIV_PtjWG94IF/s1600/IMG_9800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY4bf8mBSYplIsFT3NougfySRNH9t8o7azjU12Fej7wzV462wcvGqaBcZspnkNMGD-TQRN44ent0769gKxaI1wYw5asohCtdp1NPetcjGr-Oi-Q8LxV3vtPjOVmsw_MoApIV_PtjWG94IF/s1600/IMG_9800.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drafted pocket flap that fits your welt perfectly!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<b>Sewing the flaps</b></div>
<div>
You now have a pocket flap perfectly made for your garment! Cut two mirrored pieces in your garment fabric, and two mirrored lining pieces.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
For the lining I cut the pieces about 3mm shorter along the bottom and sides, so that when they were sewn to the garment pieces, the outer fabric rolls in slightly to the under side, hiding the seam line.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Our pattern piece has sharp corners at the bottom of the pocket, so make sure you curve those corners when sewing them at your machine. If you prefer, you can curve the pattern piece before cutting them out.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Once you have attached your flap fabric and lining together, machine stitch or baste along the upper stitching line to hold them together and to act as a placement line. I then hand pick stitched along the edge of the flap which is both decorative and helps keep the edges crisp.</div>
<br />
Watch my mini tutorial below (includes right handed and left handed views) to see how to make a pick stitch.<br />
<br /></div>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B8UuFpbAlip/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2020-02-08T23:07:26+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Feb 8, 2020 at 3:07pm PST</time></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC0msHrQVK-7oHjThusTrJollCiFSiUlQnP_C9eQejL14rfi1GweKb_nhXdfd3SWapcWiw3uAoE1uFIapAmUr1EvpdXFGNOMOgFdkA4ELjdmzROiTdf69bp-nScuh-RdEzQc53F0jsslB3/s1600/IMG_9804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC0msHrQVK-7oHjThusTrJollCiFSiUlQnP_C9eQejL14rfi1GweKb_nhXdfd3SWapcWiw3uAoE1uFIapAmUr1EvpdXFGNOMOgFdkA4ELjdmzROiTdf69bp-nScuh-RdEzQc53F0jsslB3/s1600/IMG_9804.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One completed welt, with a hand pick stitch along edge.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The flap is then positioned in the welt opening and basted to the top welt to hold into place. The welt pocket is then lined with pocketing fabric and basted shut until the whole jacket is completed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF9-spNWcKJyiA8q2CF99ic1fjzs6MFABAYyzRyFcGHFCjz5ZNWW_wM382O8IvzXAYvZJoiwfuKeM6A9X3oc16yY7-ZOPQlccVvV6i7SYI2vQ7SmvVZABO9vY8mreS-FIosQUotTX5D9Av/s1600/IMG_9822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF9-spNWcKJyiA8q2CF99ic1fjzs6MFABAYyzRyFcGHFCjz5ZNWW_wM382O8IvzXAYvZJoiwfuKeM6A9X3oc16yY7-ZOPQlccVvV6i7SYI2vQ7SmvVZABO9vY8mreS-FIosQUotTX5D9Av/s1600/IMG_9822.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqnKbjvmjjDfiDCNZdLmzZ2qJlfaN9KrYpk72sf0EuJ03YNrC2SgsLQV2xpacuVvaUgRaxV4xnBaG2KP5rTUmcY63NfkwYFrJhlJZ7fxhIf1j7iCcfoKxHRb83sTWxOKWrtTZwwvfPfl1E/s1600/IMG_0800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqnKbjvmjjDfiDCNZdLmzZ2qJlfaN9KrYpk72sf0EuJ03YNrC2SgsLQV2xpacuVvaUgRaxV4xnBaG2KP5rTUmcY63NfkwYFrJhlJZ7fxhIf1j7iCcfoKxHRb83sTWxOKWrtTZwwvfPfl1E/s1600/IMG_0800.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love a pretty pocket fabric. I attach a 5cm long strip of garment fabric to the piece of pocketing that is visible when you lift up the flap, that way the contrasting fabric doesn't peak out and is only visible when you look inside the pocket.</td></tr>
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And that's it for today!<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Next up: Part 3 - Attaching the Canvas + Padstitching the Lapels</b></div>
<br />
All the posts in this tailoring series:<br />
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/05/tailoring-resources-for-bespoke-hand.html">Tailoring Resources for a hand sewn bespoke blazer</a> - how I learnt what I know so far through books and blogs</li>
<li><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/05/tailored-double-breasted-blazer-part-1.html">Part 1 - Muslin fit, collar and canvas prep</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/06/tailored-blazer-part-2-welt-and-flap.html">Part 2 - Welt and Flap Pockets + Sleeves with mitred corners</a></li>
</ol>
</div>
Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-86762622457986956502020-05-10T19:26:00.000+10:002020-06-24T10:22:42.148+10:00Tailored Double Breasted Blazer PART 1 - Muslin and Canvas Prep<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9RaNhyphenhyphenRwXY7_I8byS8Xwzq1a2RNlo4wi4HnOl1AUfnb2Wetxb0qjVUSerZYLOPRKVTFtztj0f6PqXCN9m1NVmkKgFemHAvAHa4zlGUMbRo7jPd01WZ8ROLhYlQAcXy28XniYGPZQWzKLY/s1600/IMG_9708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9RaNhyphenhyphenRwXY7_I8byS8Xwzq1a2RNlo4wi4HnOl1AUfnb2Wetxb0qjVUSerZYLOPRKVTFtztj0f6PqXCN9m1NVmkKgFemHAvAHa4zlGUMbRo7jPd01WZ8ROLhYlQAcXy28XniYGPZQWzKLY/s1600/IMG_9708.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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I've been working on another hand sewn tailored blazer and this time I'm making my first double breasted blazer!<br />
<br />
So much work goes into the making of these tailored blazers, and with most of my projects you only ever see the finished product! As stunning as a hand tailored blazer is, what I find the most beautiful is all the engineering and creating of the jacket itself. It's the process that makes the finished product so successful. This time I thought I would share the details on my blog as I walk through this big project.<br />
<br />
All the posts so far in this tailoring series:<br />
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/05/tailoring-resources-for-bespoke-hand.html?m=0">Tailoring Resources for a hand sewn bespoke blazer</a> - how I learnt what I know so far through books and blogs.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/05/tailored-double-breasted-blazer-part-1.html">Part 1 - Muslin fit, collar and canvas prep</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/06/tailored-blazer-part-2-welt-and-flap.html">Part 2 - Welt and Flap Pockets + Sleeves with Mitred Vents</a></li>
</ol>
<b><br /></b>
<b>THE PATTERN</b><br />
<br />
I'm using McCall's Patterns #2341 Version C with the double welted flap pockets in a size 12, and with quite a few changes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYSwwANacAR19kZyU5224qLUAUS9evjSnxa0SI162OiilP2BV8QIoq-rT5tDPdVBzN-QnIigjoegoGHXu2q_7tbWDur8H9Y5EQaHlmZzmjB1ft8CdWiTZinReV_hzzXL-cfaD7DfmQeo0W/s1600/s-l1600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYSwwANacAR19kZyU5224qLUAUS9evjSnxa0SI162OiilP2BV8QIoq-rT5tDPdVBzN-QnIigjoegoGHXu2q_7tbWDur8H9Y5EQaHlmZzmjB1ft8CdWiTZinReV_hzzXL-cfaD7DfmQeo0W/s1600/s-l1600.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Here's me in one of my first calico toiles in all its glory:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWO5-zpcwHi5ojs3R5nn1d_ClTqMoUINQuZ7fdR4et3wrlsr5B2g6JBrzQX0XAT6DQLEYRIrMFq55yioYpcR1rmc4bF2GVWPgOgVj2UBuQ89UUdSKYOsOtuJ2AWx_Mqvxm0oCnY2JtGqeq/s1600/Screen+Shot+2020-05-06+at+8.00.28+pm.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWO5-zpcwHi5ojs3R5nn1d_ClTqMoUINQuZ7fdR4et3wrlsr5B2g6JBrzQX0XAT6DQLEYRIrMFq55yioYpcR1rmc4bF2GVWPgOgVj2UBuQ89UUdSKYOsOtuJ2AWx_Mqvxm0oCnY2JtGqeq/s1600/Screen+Shot+2020-05-06+at+8.00.28+pm.png" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It doesn<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">'t get any sexier than this <span style="text-align: left;">¯\_(ツ)_/¯</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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You'll see in the above pic that the arm on the right has been altered, with the seam lines on the outside. This jacket was made in the 90's for big feature shoulders with stacked shoulder pads. I decided to calm it down a little. I also made the following fit changes:</div>
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<u>Sleeves:</u></div>
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<ul>
<li>Removed 2cm width out of the centre of the sleeve, starting from the centre of the shoulder cap all the way down to the hem.</li>
<li>Extended the sleeve vent to 11.5cm from the hem</li>
<li><b>Raised the height of the armscye by 2.5cm</b>. Having an arsmcye that is too big or low, actually restricts your movement. Most patterns are drafted with large armscyes as a 'one size fits all' measure, and it means when you raise your arms, your whole jacket rises with it. The closer the armscye to your underarm, the more comfortable. When you think about it, it makes sense. Look at athletes, who need a full range of movement. Their clothing is fitted to their bodies, not hanging. You do however want to make sure that the armscye doesn't get closer than 2.5cm to the centre of the armpit.</li>
</ul>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZIxg2y1VTbRjb3dNH_wD34rlaILoGUSRJi6NyRLjNSYBPJQhzBR_5ofdp1lKNpCcE4Ku5cMRgyu2tle6oySdQIVPMatB7Nn5hnJe05PyXk08t8pGQf4_wYDjC9r6ihvZ7IXqWISPTfLI/s1600/IMG_9329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZIxg2y1VTbRjb3dNH_wD34rlaILoGUSRJi6NyRLjNSYBPJQhzBR_5ofdp1lKNpCcE4Ku5cMRgyu2tle6oySdQIVPMatB7Nn5hnJe05PyXk08t8pGQf4_wYDjC9r6ihvZ7IXqWISPTfLI/s1600/IMG_9329.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I added a strip of fabric to the muslin at the armscye, rather than recutting a new toile.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQCbUulAncXA7fzyfNSKISWILtB83050rb28KdGzEPqTqZivAAMDVODMAyrFVWyVxdTSGiuhCLs2Qm59Ju1d5X3f51Q-e4Ji9IXu2OuXwCQWdbjiCYZoWDBu2gkFKh5FnHROZIJzXjQJR/s1600/IMG_9330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQCbUulAncXA7fzyfNSKISWILtB83050rb28KdGzEPqTqZivAAMDVODMAyrFVWyVxdTSGiuhCLs2Qm59Ju1d5X3f51Q-e4Ji9IXu2OuXwCQWdbjiCYZoWDBu2gkFKh5FnHROZIJzXjQJR/s1600/IMG_9330.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When raising the armscye, you also need to raise the height of the sleeve pattern too. You can see the adjusments here in blue that grade out to nothing at the notches.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9u6CHf3efsjyjoa5O4h3nQEFicZOKkvRD8IP3bashk4Xm-8K978dgdrJea7UhN1dqVEBHEpY4H-0-rRRS8wfxRtGnR2igh_RWo79vzKgK6heGzfJOrAnvILM2oneNMRR7KjYzn7SrktuK/s1600/IMG_9340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9u6CHf3efsjyjoa5O4h3nQEFicZOKkvRD8IP3bashk4Xm-8K978dgdrJea7UhN1dqVEBHEpY4H-0-rRRS8wfxRtGnR2igh_RWo79vzKgK6heGzfJOrAnvILM2oneNMRR7KjYzn7SrktuK/s1600/IMG_9340.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My altered sleeve patterns, which I redrew on brown paper.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<u>Collar and Lapels:</u><br />
<br />
I didn't like how there was a gap between the peak lapels and the collar (see original toile photo), so I redrafted the top of the peaked lapel, to line up with the collar, which you can see in the picture below.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZAk0nxYFQg7S7yq6KIFq2NP7HYJWrO2YjOqg9_scZfx8Fe2JNtnGlucmtA_wiMANzHQ5oIhxch345868shZW9FJWPPgWaY5bYb9NXDmUe3SAp1T7O4buufxxG2lotLwfyNqyXCPAv5-_A/s1600/Screen+Shot+2020-05-10+at+7.40.56+pm.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZAk0nxYFQg7S7yq6KIFq2NP7HYJWrO2YjOqg9_scZfx8Fe2JNtnGlucmtA_wiMANzHQ5oIhxch345868shZW9FJWPPgWaY5bYb9NXDmUe3SAp1T7O4buufxxG2lotLwfyNqyXCPAv5-_A/s640/Screen+Shot+2020-05-10+at+7.40.56+pm.png" width="412" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Much better! The lapel and collar now butt up against each other</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<u>Changes to Bodice:</u><br />
<br />
In addition to the sleeve alterations, I also:<br />
<ul>
<li>Narrowed the shoulder by 2.5cm grading down to the armscye notch on both the front and back pieces.</li>
<li>I narrowed the waist by 1cm on the front, back and side seams, taking the waist in by a total of 8cm. I wanted a more shaped fit, rather than the boxier style that the pattern was drafted for.</li>
<li>I graded out to a size 14 on the hips</li>
<li>Did a sway back adjustment of 2cm, positioned 1cm below my waistline.</li>
</ul>
<div>
Tip: When making multiple changes, I like to redraw the pattern onto card or brown paper so it's easier to work with. I also write the changes I've made on each pattern piece, which makes it much easier for future me to immediately understand the alterations!</div>
<div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAE_DOsDDo50Qg2zZtcAMfYat74eYg-ZdbJIKQDks3EWzggB1_0xqZjI4vzwNSK6_6XmlYaTdJklemjfqp7zm__lFyRh7lHIxGZhxS829KJwNPCbYPeRPilipz0UXVeyc-9Rx6XpM-BXW7/s1600/IMG_9375.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAE_DOsDDo50Qg2zZtcAMfYat74eYg-ZdbJIKQDks3EWzggB1_0xqZjI4vzwNSK6_6XmlYaTdJklemjfqp7zm__lFyRh7lHIxGZhxS829KJwNPCbYPeRPilipz0UXVeyc-9Rx6XpM-BXW7/s1600/IMG_9375.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Preparing the Under Collar</b><br />
<br />
I cut the under collar in a <a href="https://www.winterwoodtoys.com.au/commercially-dyed-felt">wool felt</a>, and used <a href="http://www.bblackandsons.com/french-collar-canvas-p-310.html">french collar canvas</a> for interfacing. Both pieces were cut on the bias.<br />
French collar canvas is a little stiffer than regular body canvas and is often made out of a treated heavy weight linen.<br />
<br />
I then stitched along the roll line, and using the roll line shape as a guide, I started pad stitching over the whole under collar.<br />
<br />
Note: Traditionally tailors use <a href="http://www.kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=197_202">melton wool</a> for the under collar, but I enjoy wool felt for it's thickness and shape, which I feel makes a crisp and upright collar. Just make sure it's 100% wool!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBlzPTO66Z6gM2Y667DoFNEAHKGrP9m1wxk7eSEXFFzdwPRTcZw7Sjk0lewde5OT8HkgUrxbic2gGNk0ZZ7GYTtI4k_ZfUWVqXWqGJCRVgspPJ8ha_F9Q7h34R36Mt9EGezkbjMOK-GCz2/s1600/IMG_9704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBlzPTO66Z6gM2Y667DoFNEAHKGrP9m1wxk7eSEXFFzdwPRTcZw7Sjk0lewde5OT8HkgUrxbic2gGNk0ZZ7GYTtI4k_ZfUWVqXWqGJCRVgspPJ8ha_F9Q7h34R36Mt9EGezkbjMOK-GCz2/s1600/IMG_9704.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">roll line basted with silk thread, and then pad stitched.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2C6PElvcxvVwFQJj2Fa-VFO-oEznOAXvkN_pGDPMp5maRwqZSE_5XFZL3ZInlUP3StOlod1fiSmbJoa14NoOQ7vDXORFCpQ-w2XBOco9Rs2aU2sv8MuJb2qV7T4PGEJiTua2aWTSdWP7g/s1600/IMG_0075.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2C6PElvcxvVwFQJj2Fa-VFO-oEznOAXvkN_pGDPMp5maRwqZSE_5XFZL3ZInlUP3StOlod1fiSmbJoa14NoOQ7vDXORFCpQ-w2XBOco9Rs2aU2sv8MuJb2qV7T4PGEJiTua2aWTSdWP7g/s1600/IMG_0075.jpeg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ta-Da! Smaller pad-stitches were made at the corners to encourage the collar to roll slightly towards the body.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I then folded the collar along the roll line, pinned it to a pressing ham, steamed it and let it dry over night. The photo above shows what it looks like once it has been set and dried.</div>
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The seam allowance of the under collar has been removed, as is typical with a bespoke jacket where the collar is attached to the neckline seam allowance by hand.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMa_p4YdLXx-T7eehneholO6fXNSUz5mbaraPZVEze_CCYNLXwH73LqCgbsYu0HpJ02-yu0An7JFSV2MaYLqVpPC_vE-iFsmhxLSatb5WfWigazw_NL1hA-gqutaufpkrlIPKNoOqflkDp/s1600/IMG_0077.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMa_p4YdLXx-T7eehneholO6fXNSUz5mbaraPZVEze_CCYNLXwH73LqCgbsYu0HpJ02-yu0An7JFSV2MaYLqVpPC_vE-iFsmhxLSatb5WfWigazw_NL1hA-gqutaufpkrlIPKNoOqflkDp/s1600/IMG_0077.jpeg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the underside of the under collar. Can you see any of the pad-sttiches? When you pad stitch correctly, you are just picking up a tiny 'bite' of the fabric from the right side. In a thick wool felt it is not even detectable.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>Preparing the Canvas Interfacing</b></div>
<br />
For my double breasted blazer, I am using the full front canvas interfacing for the first time. I used canvas I already had in my stash that I <a href="https://www.spotlightstores.com/by-the-metre/soft-haircloth-94-cm-fabric/BP80247556">purchased from Spotlight a while ago</a>.<br />
<br />
With my previous two tailored blazers, (<a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/11/my-first-tailored-blazer-burda-6875.html">here!</a> and <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/11/a-blazer-leather-skirt-silk-cami.html">here!</a>) they were partially interfaced to start under the arm, travel above the bust, and down through the centre front length of the jacket (<a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/05/tailoring-resources-for-bespoke-hand.html?m=0">check out my previous post here</a> to see a comparison picture of a full canvas and partial canvas front). I wanted the jacket front to have uniform draping, and so with the book '<a href="https://blackwells.co.uk/bookshop/product/9781628921700?gC=ad0234829&gclid=CjwKCAjwqdn1BRBREiwAEbZcR5hbW3l88AYuMaRuib_ud-QXP8IDZx2BWa5Zk-JHakq_WRgfPVuCDxoC5WMQAvD_BwE">Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear</a>' as a guide, I drafted a canvas front.<br />
I cut out the darts, and closed them with pocketing fabric and a zig zag stitch.<br />
<br />
I then created a PLASTRON using canvas and french collar canvas, and then covered with wool fabric. I then loosely pad-stitched the plastron's to the canvas interfacing.<br />
This part will be covered by both the fabric and lining, so the pad stitching can be visible on both sides.<br />
<br />
The plastron's purpose is to keep the form of the jacket across the chest, where it may naturally cave in. The wool fabric covering is the side that is closest to the body, and covers the additional canvas so that it is not uncomfortable to the wearer.<br />
<br />
You can see below the 'right' side of the canvas, with the pad stitching showing on top and the plastrons underneath.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT3lepvgFes4p3BlXeKIo_YJxIwfh42U1uf-UQV5I_zs8CS8R6_0mURxEnDNhqkIUkhVnxZPSZB52wwZqMsBMzqugQVGV1qBum3FjV3D816cirPH1wQUOI2FARXcUQ0I8F7Dw6LkXXf9Ev/s1600/IMG_9705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT3lepvgFes4p3BlXeKIo_YJxIwfh42U1uf-UQV5I_zs8CS8R6_0mURxEnDNhqkIUkhVnxZPSZB52wwZqMsBMzqugQVGV1qBum3FjV3D816cirPH1wQUOI2FARXcUQ0I8F7Dw6LkXXf9Ev/s1600/IMG_9705.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The jacket front interfacing with darts zig zagged closed, and the plastron pad stitched to the underside.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKYyawEer3eVS7v9cNqgq3EulygU_E5zDYzuMN-RNpm-Yovbwvd-1m7HbkavVQz5hyphenhyphenzf1erzt53MAk5UAE4iUN5qEzNrCeI1lGHs1-Be6HZE6rgHDp16TcE9p7eliQ4YbsjVxVyTmpIYkx/s1600/IMG_9706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKYyawEer3eVS7v9cNqgq3EulygU_E5zDYzuMN-RNpm-Yovbwvd-1m7HbkavVQz5hyphenhyphenzf1erzt53MAk5UAE4iUN5qEzNrCeI1lGHs1-Be6HZE6rgHDp16TcE9p7eliQ4YbsjVxVyTmpIYkx/s1600/IMG_9706.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7c2OEIUYT8a25elBQ4jCvMhUnildnO1XOmd7Pq2Z8b50ACqFzaduC55iZepfnwFgDx-ObGOPkvdAurZwCoMO8aIQrtsRPsQv1WAuM_r-l5Xl6wQmXHsgdrARKHVGD7m7y7dzRHglDrFAn/s1600/IMG_9708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7c2OEIUYT8a25elBQ4jCvMhUnildnO1XOmd7Pq2Z8b50ACqFzaduC55iZepfnwFgDx-ObGOPkvdAurZwCoMO8aIQrtsRPsQv1WAuM_r-l5Xl6wQmXHsgdrARKHVGD7m7y7dzRHglDrFAn/s1600/IMG_9708.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished under collar and readied canvas interfacing pinned to the dress form.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">And that's it for now folks! Thanks for reading :)</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Next up: Part 2 - Sewing the Welt and Flap Pockets + Sleeves (with mitred corners!) </b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
All the posts in this tailoring series:<br />
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/05/tailoring-resources-for-bespoke-hand.html?m=0">Tailoring Resources for a hand sewn bespoke blazer</a> - how I learnt what I know so far through books and blogs.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/05/tailored-double-breasted-blazer-part-1.html">Part 1 - Muslin fit, collar and canvas prep</a></li>
<li>Part 2 - <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/06/tailored-blazer-part-2-welt-and-flap.html">Welt and Flap Pockets + Sleeves with Mitred Vents</a></li>
</ol>
Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-27319166300962546402020-05-05T19:21:00.002+10:002020-06-24T10:23:19.603+10:00TAILORING Resources for a BESPOKE HAND SEWN Blazer<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtJuPLOw5Ih7uMXAL2DxhyphenhyphendVRx5nF8euDG02nbJTELzaJqJCTc7cAyicJ2qm7WwIx_uHoTivo3y4lhBQ1s2-tZ0pn5Uhayp5Smw5wJNxTZc5zX5JRgSiZrNbtqhw_zVKwRs2ZJTpEbKI0J/s1600/IMG_9956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtJuPLOw5Ih7uMXAL2DxhyphenhyphendVRx5nF8euDG02nbJTELzaJqJCTc7cAyicJ2qm7WwIx_uHoTivo3y4lhBQ1s2-tZ0pn5Uhayp5Smw5wJNxTZc5zX5JRgSiZrNbtqhw_zVKwRs2ZJTpEbKI0J/s1600/IMG_9956.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My First Double Breasted Blazer in Progress</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Beginnings of an obsession</span></b><br />
Any one who is a regular reader of my blog, will have witnessed by dalliance into the fine art of tailoring has quickly turned into an obsession. Hand sewn blazers are becoming a regular feature in my me made wardrobe and to be honest, I think it has changed the way that I sew.<br />
<br />
The more I learn about tailoring (and boy do I have a lot to learn) the more I appreciate how it combines both art and engineering so perfectly. Everything is precise and measured and on purpose, and it celebrates the age old tradition of hand sewing which still is the application of choice by professional tailors despite the progression in technology today.<br />
<br />
I'm a pretty passionate person, and when i get into something, I absorb myself in it. I have spent countless hours reading, researching and watching anything tailoring related that I could get my hands on.<br />
Knowing how much I love tailoring and how overwhelming it can seem at the start, I thought I would share the resources that I found for those who want to take their sewing up a notch and try tailoring for themselves.<br />
Even if you don't go full bespoke, there are many techniques that can be adapted from tailoring that will instantly improve the quality and longevity of your hand made creations.<br />
<br />
<b>It should be noted that I have not received any training or attended any courses in tailoring</b> <b>and everything I have learned has been through reading and researching</b>.<br />
I have however had ten years experience in sewing and that has definitely helped me to able to absorb the learnings and adapt them to how I feel works best for me. In any case, if you are a home sewist, you should take comfort in knowing that tailoring, like maths is not a guessing game, but an achievable task that once you break it down into steps is actually straightforward. And tailoring also, like art, allows you to be creative and explore with endless possibilities.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Books</span></b><br />
There are two books that I own for tailoring that I have read cover to cover, over and over.<br />
The first book I have used for every bespoke blazer I have made so far, and my newest book (the second one) I have been using for my current double breasted blazer that I am working on.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<img border="0" data-original-height="1360" data-original-width="1020" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYfU0jRSTxFpN2RiN-8mnY7XcfNZY92LQE1mx75MpVNqP4NVM3vffFYCAw8R9OKOeG-L4eT54uD3f2Pn8M6yigo_YkHFUC-_V5c3V9ZidY5JCSKTZ9uXH0HUnaWkqsAxVxFi_SZDAVl5f9/s320/71zkHiajWKL.jpg" width="240" /><img border="0" data-original-height="517" data-original-width="400" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizDLpiXuxFNL3iuWG54c9t-5GqDbxut4kZ0T5tmJeTNK13xUoEqskAEZUQidPUKoHsmBNfa2548AGY1UhdKlNP1KMla7pJ5MG8swJvMPTFWUNHvlk6aGKUojKWVoYD0jTEQp0XFg8f9Skz/s320/9781628921700.jpg" width="247" /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Both of these books offer tailored, hand sewn methods and share a lot of commonalities, but also there are a lot of big differences too.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing The Perfect Jacket</b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This book also comes with a different picture on the front for some countries, so don't be alarmed if it's not the same cover picture.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
If you are wanted to get into tailoring, this is an excellent place to start. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Pros</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<ul>
<li>This book is picture heavy and well explained and is dedicated to sewing jackets for women.</li>
<li>Gives good instructions on how to pad-stitch</li>
<li>Shows pad-stitching techniques for both under collar and lapels</li>
<li>Explains how to draft a backstay, sew-in canvas interfacing, and a shoulder reinforcement using your sewing pattern.</li>
<li>Colour photos with great instructions on sewing double welt, single welt and flap pockets</li>
<li>Gives two sets of instructions through out the book on how to sew the jacket a) with sew-in canvas interfacing or b) with iron on interfacing</li>
<li>Gives great detail on how to pre-treat your fabrics, and how to iron correctly.</li>
</ul>
<div>
Cons</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Only shows how to attache the under-collar, lapel and upper collar by machine and not by hand. Sewing these sections by hand is the traditional tailored way of sewing a jacket and is how I put together my tailored blazers. I really feel this makes a massive difference in the quality of the finished project.</li>
<li>The photos are a little dated, but still very informative.</li>
<li>Doesn't give details on how to draft an under collar with a roll line and an upper collar. A lot of patterns these days don't include a roll line on the collar and it can be hard for a beginner to work out where it should go.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<b>Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear</b></div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
This is the second edition of this book, and from reviews it appears to be much of an upgrade on the original, with more up to date photos.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
If you are a beginner sewer with minimal hand sewing or tailoring experience, you may want to start with the other book as there is a fair bit of assumed knowledge here, but for those learning about tailoring this book is an absolute wealth of information.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Pros</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Lots of pictures</li>
<li>Gives great instruction on how to fit and make fit adjustments to an established pattern</li>
<li>Gives instruction on ironworking your pieces, which is important in tailoring (where to shrink and where to stretch)</li>
<li>Gives instructions on how to draft an inside breast pocket in the lining</li>
<li>Includes instructions on pad stitching</li>
<li>Shows how to cut fabric for plaid and striped pieces</li>
<li>Traditional tailoring techniques</li>
<li>Gives details on how to attach the facings, under collar and collar by hand</li>
<li>An excellent section on how to draft an under collar and upper collar and the positioning of the roll line</li>
<li>Also gives instruction on constructing a waistcoat and pants.</li>
<li>Much more hand sewing focused.</li>
</ul>
<div>
Cons</div>
</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>The pictures are in black and white and can sometimes be tricky to decipher</li>
<li>The book is expensive, and geared towards more the intermediate to experienced sewist</li>
<li>Is specifically written for mens tailoring. However I find the differences between men and womens tailoring to be very minimal. Once you have the fit right, the rules really are the same.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
<b>The canvas differences in the books:</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
While both of these books show how to draft the canvas interfacing to go with your pattern, it's worth noting that the first book only uses a half canvas interfacing (it starts from the side seam at the underarm, scoops above the bust point, and then goes down to them just 1 inch wider than the jacket front facing.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1281" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4UzR3OjSQhOaNAnUaj9DVAQoF2FWZid_H6xn2-qtvrliIPngq41Qn451FuTl2um-AP5GlcKwtupFM9U39djuqzRTqimzRPZyT62zKHj1yzxECw02uniCwOZy_0E0E_s-wDNAN7EbpwLl2/s320/IMG_9968.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="256" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">partial canvas, above and to the right of the red line markings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1281" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0hdC2NeD0ZVjt1ucHPFlwCwHLL5iY5ATmZ6HByZAAZ1WXN6A41-e2gTdWu8IFfs8Qc7KrRiUrWdO1JQF1ASWMjvFOGGikGaIU5vzkjVYV1kiOU4A5562Jorw_I1-cQENAxuJylEFRDo5D/s320/IMG_9970.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="256" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">full front canvas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
The second book gives instructions for a full front canvas, meaning it covers the whole jacket front pattern piece. The first is a softer, look and the second a more traditional structured look. Both have their pros and cons and I've made three blazers using the partial canvas front, and I'm currently making my first double breasted blazer using the full canvas (which so far I am absolutely loving).</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/11/my-first-tailored-blazer-burda-6875.html"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUAvGs5-u4oACgrkDf7_Kc0RP4WZ0p-IEN5zRvu4tLIHmeRz-sIyCFintozCQJLlLZVvA25b0F1jioKvLHytTbkMobZmImOVDqfTsl3WOvjNQFkTCA73qOK9ZbnEsWbEsl4PRvTkkbS1UL/s1600/IMG_5607.jpg" width="624" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/11/my-first-tailored-blazer-burda-6875.html">Double wool crepe - Click on the photo to see the blog post</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/11/a-blazer-leather-skirt-silk-cami.html"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimqUARCZXfpUq0oBaiaqy4dqG4dRaSJ5YPxNoCMpCZ0qjbXLScVddY61J0NJg6HEFi_WGJ5EtY9Y2gpfBkFfAgBRGl9BbgDRm84YKb8EYnTxMa1G_N5u2d6RQUbnDKbJPl__AjqGPIHmZe/s1600/IMG_6000.jpg" width="624" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/11/a-blazer-leather-skirt-silk-cami.html">Silk wool - click on the photo to see the blog post</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: start;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Online Resources</span></b></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
For my first two blazers, I only had the first book 'Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing The Perfect Jacket' and while I used a lot of techniques from the book, I also did a lot of things differently, such as attaching the under collar and upper collar to the jacket by hand.</div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I referenced the following blog <a href="https://maledevonsewing.co.uk/2017/01/home-tailored-3-piece-suit-part-1.html">Male Devon Sewing</a> who has a wonderful series on constructing a Tailored Suit. This was really helpful in working out how to attach the collars by hand.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Tailoring Tools</span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I cannot live without the following things:</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_13&products_id=736">tailors clay chalk</a> - for marking your fabric</li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_101_245&products_id=617">cotton basting thread</a> - for tacking darts, notches, seemliness and basting your fabric together</li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/products/gutermann-thread-silk-thread-100m?_pos=1&_sid=fa9854d6d&_ss=r">silk thread</a> ( I use Guterman) - for hand sewing such as pad stitching and finishing</li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_100_12&products_id=279">silk buttonhole buttonhole twist thread</a> - for sewing hand worked buttonholes and for sewing on buttons</li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4_5_68&products_id=728">John James 'betweens' 3/9</a> - hand sewing needles</li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://merchantandmills.com/store/equipment/notions/tailors-thimble/">Merchant and Mills tailors thimble</a> - do NOT hand sew without a thimble. Just don't. Take the time to get a thimble that fits and works for you.</li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/products/sleeve-board?_pos=1&_sid=9e68431c4&_ss=r">Sleeve board</a> - for pressing lapels, sleeves and small fiddly bits.</li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/products/tailors-pressing-ham?_pos=1&_sid=1c2aa6c39&_ss=r">Tailors pressing ham</a> - for curved areas that need to be pressed</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">My brand new gravity feed industrial iron which has changed my LIFE! It's the Silver Star ES-94A and it's specifically designed for tailoring.</li>
</ul>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Tailoring Supplies</span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/">Kenton Trimmings</a> in the UK is an absolute dream for tailoring supplies and is where I've gotten most of my tools. Their website is a bit clunky, but they are really well priced and have an absolute dreamy amount of canvas, trims and tools to choose from. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
In fact you can order a swatch book of their canvas' for £10, and they then give you a £10 gift voucher to use on your next purchase which is just fantastic.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
They have absolutely everything, including melton wool for under collars and pocketing fabric, and their customer service is superb. I once ordered a whole bunch of stuff which they accidentally sent through the slow mail, so they resent the whole thing again and told me to keep both of the packages!</div>
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibR5iHRtkb7c9dFiJpgf_z4kLoabpQAa6m4Xzay8roxRwDQirXuTXwZwZrTe5TrTaOAyaQm2t0u6NKEW_TE7W0wSPrWqXUJVptUqfbrnokac3991WbYVxUmUgGOHyqnzmg9AQc7D_9JmsS/s1600/178567b901054403bac0e4aa9f31fe7a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="294" data-original-width="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibR5iHRtkb7c9dFiJpgf_z4kLoabpQAa6m4Xzay8roxRwDQirXuTXwZwZrTe5TrTaOAyaQm2t0u6NKEW_TE7W0wSPrWqXUJVptUqfbrnokac3991WbYVxUmUgGOHyqnzmg9AQc7D_9JmsS/s1600/178567b901054403bac0e4aa9f31fe7a.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Suit History</span></b><br />
<br />
When you're learning about tailoring, I think it's really advantageous to learn about the history of suits, the function, and the difference between a tailored vs store bought suit.<br />
There are heaps of videos on youtube, and I recommend also looking up 'Savile Row' as well and watching some of the tours of the world's most recognised street for tailoring. It's absolutely fascinating stuff and just gets you more inspired and excited to get stuck in to tailoring!<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/D-Ghh-_CJEo" width="560"></iframe>
</div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Tailoring Instagram Accounts To Follow</span></b><br />
<br />
Here are a few instagram accounts that I love for helpful tailoring tips and tricks, or just for inspiration. I will probably add to this list as time goes on.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/be_spokenbyjihae/?hl=en">Jihae An</a> - A english tailor working on Savile Row, she posts progress photos daily of her amazing work<br />
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/leemarshbespoke/?hl=en">Lee Marsh Bespoke</a> - Another English tailor who posts amazing instructional videos, like how to set in a sleeve.<br />
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/raythemastertailor/?hl=en">Ray The Master Tailor</a> - With 40 years of experience, this man knows how to make a suit!<br />
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/juliomompo/?hl=en">Julio D.F. Mompó</a> - His sartorial work is just incredible<br />
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/johnny_nguyen1707/?hl=en">Johnny Nguyen</a> - The man makes the most exquisite womens clothing that looks like architectural art pieces.<br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B_NG6jdpU5A/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Jihae An 안지혜 (@be_spokenbyjihae)</a> on <time datetime="2020-04-20T13:44:38+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Apr 20, 2020 at 6:44am PDT</time></div>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/ByrylIelD9f/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Johnny Nguyen (@johnny_nguyen1707)</a> on <time datetime="2019-06-14T08:55:16+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Jun 14, 2019 at 1:55am PDT</time></div>
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I'll be starting a tailoring series soon on my blog for those who are interested! If you have any questions, feel free to comment here, or send me a DM over on instgram.<br />
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Happy sewing everyone!<br />
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<div style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;">
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B-sVEB-ARa2/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2020-04-07T20:13:19+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Apr 7, 2020 at 1:13pm PDT</time></div>
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<br />
You can see all the posts so far in this series below:<br />
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/05/tailoring-resources-for-bespoke-hand.html#comment-form">Tailoring Resources for a hand sewn bespoke blazer</a> - how I learnt what I know so far through books and blogs.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/05/tailored-double-breasted-blazer-part-1.html">Part 1 - Muslin fit, collar and canvas prep</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2020/06/tailored-blazer-part-2-welt-and-flap.html">Part 2 - Welt and Flap Pockets + Sleeves with Mitred Vents</a></li>
</ol>
<script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-43379497434670062472020-05-03T15:37:00.000+10:002020-05-03T15:37:32.432+10:00DIY Linen Summer Dress - a Mini Tutorial<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7bf1AP2XC5t9Qqixeull7-374U7ut-DkFStmK8OMRD_yvxjvStYSGNgfLTc8kn9Az2eFYzwjxRDM6jNbmJByN-gXn-fkUPUjhequIerU782tpGv445zcWT3lS1fqcFamV4IEgrCLmxqv/s1600/IMG_7175.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - DIY Linen Summer Dress" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7bf1AP2XC5t9Qqixeull7-374U7ut-DkFStmK8OMRD_yvxjvStYSGNgfLTc8kn9Az2eFYzwjxRDM6jNbmJByN-gXn-fkUPUjhequIerU782tpGv445zcWT3lS1fqcFamV4IEgrCLmxqv/s1600/IMG_7175.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">It's a summer dress! Just in time for winter in Australia!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
I made this dress when the weather was still nice, and it got a LOT of wear, let me tell you!<br />
It's comfy, it's pretty, and it can be dressed up or thrown over bathers; it's a win-win!<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN35hUJXgJl-JURVpCcLCFeNClonJ5zrykurBVWVTqb-UTqKnnXzVyf2kjKAtjxM0K6jyoZtAv0cDBDwLtUsHxdJLi3hnU01p91VCmLTDzXjwC6L1BigHEBOTqK7DvSV7N4t7wy2sNr8QS/s1600/IMG_7198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - DIY Linen Summer Dress" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN35hUJXgJl-JURVpCcLCFeNClonJ5zrykurBVWVTqb-UTqKnnXzVyf2kjKAtjxM0K6jyoZtAv0cDBDwLtUsHxdJLi3hnU01p91VCmLTDzXjwC6L1BigHEBOTqK7DvSV7N4t7wy2sNr8QS/s1600/IMG_7198.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Fabric</span></b><br />
<br />
I used the 'linford grape/ washed linen from<a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/collections/linen/products/copy-of-linford-grape-washed-linen"> Tessuti Fabrics.</a><br />
It's a light weight (110gsm) vintage washed linen that feels like you're wearing nothing!<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvTylqZ5bRhybjEaFkmVWxJXxx8a-aJB6PGet3PbUCPynNKnEdx1_mvnzeR8LHk3kl09c0ccAWt7oVny_VE-7Wnu0RnKhTi4TnSpfkfe4OvoB8SZMyIKeuYz9HjIbdvZ-GQ8YUZQPJ2aMg/s1600/IMG_7196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - DIY Linen Summer Dress" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvTylqZ5bRhybjEaFkmVWxJXxx8a-aJB6PGet3PbUCPynNKnEdx1_mvnzeR8LHk3kl09c0ccAWt7oVny_VE-7Wnu0RnKhTi4TnSpfkfe4OvoB8SZMyIKeuYz9HjIbdvZ-GQ8YUZQPJ2aMg/s1600/IMG_7196.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>DIY YOUR OWN!</b></span><br />
<br />
This was such a quick and easy make that I hacked using a camisole pattern and you can too!<br />
<br />
<b>The Bodice</b><br />
Grab a cami pattern that you have tried and used in your stash!<br />
I used <a href="https://shopsewalteredstyle.com/collections/frontpage/products/misty-top-dress">The Misty Cami</a> from <a href="https://shopsewalteredstyle.com/collections/frontpage/products/misty-top-dress">Sew Altered Style</a> and eliminated the centre front seam by cutting it on the fold.<br />
<br />
Find the waistline on the pattern and mark draw a line to mark it. Cut out a bodice front and back from the waistline mark upwards.<br />
<br />
Construct the bodice as per the pattern instructions, leaving the waist unfinished.<br />
<br />
<b>The Skirt</b><br />
The skirt part of the dress is two long rectangles that have been gathered and attached in tiers.<br />
<br />
SWIPE the photos below to see the mini tutorial below on how to draft the skirt:<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B_lFPowlgib/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2020-04-29T21:11:48+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Apr 29, 2020 at 2:11pm PDT</time></div>
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<b>The Hem</b><br />
To add to the relaxed look of the linen, I machine stitched along the hem circumference, 1.5cm from the raw edge. I then frayed the edges up to the seam-line.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
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This was a quick and easy make and such a great addition for a warmer climate. I can definitely see me making more of these dresses for next summer!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvy76hfnIVvWoH5LN03w-LKm9jMcEa4Pgrn8RYbiVTTUeUWgtptO-AwL16pR3v9CYFMkIplBLqaWLDCGAzPcFLjCXTHdbpjBprltrAJjGq4zky2t6slcvtirmiQT2Au8UafTdyyN3tiVMP/s1600/IMG_7189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - DIY Linen Summer Dress" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvy76hfnIVvWoH5LN03w-LKm9jMcEa4Pgrn8RYbiVTTUeUWgtptO-AwL16pR3v9CYFMkIplBLqaWLDCGAzPcFLjCXTHdbpjBprltrAJjGq4zky2t6slcvtirmiQT2Au8UafTdyyN3tiVMP/s1600/IMG_7189.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBboGk5DSSzEig9jMCRFBqeR9cI903nmEBgZtpFQ6hPyAvm0Zd3GbdPrO7hufZlyF7YCXI6ooZp7KW54uxe0sEbb4IeVcTGuKvmEyIGOIT6OTAadCBqaYlE4Bfd_9eh5ORg95wKVsLZMiT/s1600/IMG_7178.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - DIY Linen Summer Dress" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBboGk5DSSzEig9jMCRFBqeR9cI903nmEBgZtpFQ6hPyAvm0Zd3GbdPrO7hufZlyF7YCXI6ooZp7KW54uxe0sEbb4IeVcTGuKvmEyIGOIT6OTAadCBqaYlE4Bfd_9eh5ORg95wKVsLZMiT/s1600/IMG_7178.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-1983272633166631322020-04-15T19:48:00.001+10:002020-04-15T19:48:28.903+10:00Silk Organza Wrap Top - By Hand London - Hannah Pattern<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_4wG0un1HU_bU-vZsIjnZMLlcgRjWGFVDGZLfr2DqQT7JGpAvuAELFqC1fRdg6aOerAFn7cTyJaJbEBsXu_oesPcZ1j_wMYGA_CfM16NuQzZkiusn6VvsZ56Zw6KzBEMjwF-5hm08jGyA/s1600/IMG_6839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Hannah Dress in Silk Organza - By Hand London" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_4wG0un1HU_bU-vZsIjnZMLlcgRjWGFVDGZLfr2DqQT7JGpAvuAELFqC1fRdg6aOerAFn7cTyJaJbEBsXu_oesPcZ1j_wMYGA_CfM16NuQzZkiusn6VvsZ56Zw6KzBEMjwF-5hm08jGyA/s1600/IMG_6839.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<br />
You know how spicy food is addictive, and the more you eat it the hotter you need it?<br />
Well yeah, that's what's happening with me and big sleeves at the moment.<br />
And I'm not sorry.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern</span></b><br />
It's the <a href="https://byhandlondon.com/products/hannah-dress-pdf-sewing-pattern">Hannah Dress from By Hand London</a> converted into a top!<br />
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It's a wrap dress with no notions or lining (a quick sew!) and has three different sleeve options, short, bishop and tulip. I fell in love with the volume of the bishop sleeves and I knew they'd look fabulous in the silk organza.<br />
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The dress comes with a gathered skirt, or gathered peplum for a top, but I chose to add a waistband instead - see 'The Details + Changes' below.<br />
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<b>Skirt</b><br />
Also pictured is my self-drafted Balmain inspired skirt, made in a Japanese cotton and fully lined, and <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/07/diy-copy-cat-balmain-sequinned-jacket.html">you can read more about it here</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPmYLMvCWAGUeYrIwMPJ0w6dv28g_mVLC7vVawoUY8jCI8D9WnrXo8-GlCfTYcb0iEG0klIjaTqHamlHJp0QuCcbCp52xng1juON3WQlg2Nwea-f3iKpeFrPoBsGX3aKy6i5zmeKJNKDxD/s1600/IMG_6964.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Hannah Dress in Silk Organza - By Hand London" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPmYLMvCWAGUeYrIwMPJ0w6dv28g_mVLC7vVawoUY8jCI8D9WnrXo8-GlCfTYcb0iEG0klIjaTqHamlHJp0QuCcbCp52xng1juON3WQlg2Nwea-f3iKpeFrPoBsGX3aKy6i5zmeKJNKDxD/s1600/IMG_6964.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjURgkaBMGqeoN9TNZOL5g1fhIYvQk_77TGmZJ6x2QwYavZ5xAItFgDDbeSFePehWjtl1e0HYpTY42rSl4xAE7lV9f907QMjE9zrtB27EHmakYdj8EDD-yVj7ngMks_5sl4YOm_v7vm258f/s1600/IMG_6888.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Hannah Dress in Silk Organza - By Hand London" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjURgkaBMGqeoN9TNZOL5g1fhIYvQk_77TGmZJ6x2QwYavZ5xAItFgDDbeSFePehWjtl1e0HYpTY42rSl4xAE7lV9f907QMjE9zrtB27EHmakYdj8EDD-yVj7ngMks_5sl4YOm_v7vm258f/s1600/IMG_6888.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Fabric</span></b><br />
For this blouse I used the most beautiful warm chocolate brown silk organza from <a href="https://www.instagram.com/theclothshopivanhoe/?hl=en">The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe</a>.<br />
As soon as I saw this fabric I knew I had to make some sort of fabulous blouse with it, and when I spied the Hannah pattern, I knew it had met its match!<br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B-7woKFguEZ/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2020-04-13T20:02:47+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Apr 13, 2020 at 1:02pm PDT</time></div>
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<b>Swipe above to see the french seams up close!</b><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Details + Changes</span></b><br />
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To achieve the look I was after, I used the bodice of this pattern and added a WAISTBAND.<br />
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The top is a WRAP AROUND and I love how it is done up with internal and external ties, so no need for buttonholes or slits.<br />
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The ARMSCYE are quite narrow which really appeals to me and my smaller shoulders and arms; I always know I'm going to get a really nice fitted look with BHL patterns. If you need extra room for your arms or shoulders however, you might want to do a toile first before you dive in.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghSVE5OtZlul3BYRBaBRn3pSZypF5it99YEL8CjcDYqtKf8w9EC6FpNU5NvMjCmiSiWWvTOZ5IGNn8OyTov2Lxtc9e3k5RZPU8kNCanzNgQQbJpEyrr5STzc5ZeteQS5pipHQV9wa6bLqd/s1600/IMG_6955+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghSVE5OtZlul3BYRBaBRn3pSZypF5it99YEL8CjcDYqtKf8w9EC6FpNU5NvMjCmiSiWWvTOZ5IGNn8OyTov2Lxtc9e3k5RZPU8kNCanzNgQQbJpEyrr5STzc5ZeteQS5pipHQV9wa6bLqd/s1600/IMG_6955+%25281%2529.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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Because this top isn't lined, I FRENCHED ALL the seams, including the armholes (swipe above instagram post to see a close up).<br />
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The wrap, SCOOP NECK is flattering and easy to fit, as it can be adjusted as you wear it, which makes this a quick and straight forward make with instant gratification! Most of my sewing projects these days involve slow, hand sewing so this was a real fun and quick project to do.<br />
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Instead of ties at the wrists I added elastic for a simple, clean finish.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6UFvmD7cVDN4YMwGGo6vvLlU5rOJbYXFAA9mmxA0v3wF80ZOJkntz2A2VUD5Y4q8l7l3TqzRiHuHg57Vh7AJh_R8MKSrxoBz9UQ00SndP-mam7AloHu832x9tNqM44evf4AvgxwMkTvap/s1600/IMG_6872.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Hannah Dress in Silk Organza - By Hand London" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6UFvmD7cVDN4YMwGGo6vvLlU5rOJbYXFAA9mmxA0v3wF80ZOJkntz2A2VUD5Y4q8l7l3TqzRiHuHg57Vh7AJh_R8MKSrxoBz9UQ00SndP-mam7AloHu832x9tNqM44evf4AvgxwMkTvap/s1600/IMG_6872.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b></div>
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I really love sewing with organza. The body and stiffness, mixed with it's transparency and sheen is such a gorgeous high end mix and will forever be one of my favourite fabrics to choose when I want to make something a little bit 'extra'.</div>
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This 'Hannah' is a wonderful, enjoyable pattern, that is both comfortable and glamorous. I'd love to try this pattern again as a dress in a soft, billowy linen and I definitely recommend it if you're thinking about giving it a go!</div>
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Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-41750005950222683992020-03-13T11:59:00.002+11:002020-03-13T11:59:16.987+11:00TWO Tutorials - Couture Rolled Hem + Hand Pick Stitch AND a Silk Slip Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hi sewing friends!</div>
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Today I have two mini hand sewing tutorials to share with you, and a fresh new silk slip dress!</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Dress</span></b></div>
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Made with the most divine, 22mm silk satin from <a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/">Tessuti Fabrics</a>, this self drafted cowl neck dress features:</div>
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<li style="text-align: left;">fully lined in a beautiful chocolate silk satin from <a href="https://www.instagram.com/theclothshopivanhoe/?hl=en">The Cloth Shop</a></li>
<li style="text-align: left;">French seams</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Bias cut silk</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">pick stitched underlining</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">bias cut spaghetti straps</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">hand rolled hem</li>
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I love taking a simple dress and making it 'extra' by adding couture techniques, such as a hand pick stitched lining instead of a machine under stitching.</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Hand Sewing Is Your Friend!</span></b></div>
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Typically, when we think about hand sewing we associate it with 'hard work', but friends, I am here to tell you that hand sewing is misunderstood!</div>
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I used to do everything I could to avoid hand sewing, associating it with the chore part of making a garment; necessary but not enjoyable.</div>
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Looking back I realised that the reason I felt that way is because I never really understood HOW to do it, and didn't appreciate how transformative and useful it was to a garment.</div>
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Once you realise the benefits of hand sewing and learn how to do it (it's actually easier than using a machine!) the dread is taken away. In fact in my experience I now actually enjoy it! Now I look at patterns to see where I can actually substitute machine sewing for hand sewing.</div>
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<b>So what are the benefits of hand sewing?</b></div>
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<li style="text-align: left;">AESTHETICALLY PLEASING - there is nothing quite like hand finished details on a garment. It signifies couture and indicates the amount of effort and love put into a garment. The slight variations in stitches that are typical of a hand stitch, are in stark contrast to the uniform flat stitches of a machine.</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">THE CONTROL - Hand sewing allows you to be exact. You can manipulate the fabric in front of you and place it exactly where it needs to go. </li>
<li style="text-align: left;">KINDER TO YOUR GARMENT - When you sew on the machine, you're forcing your whole garment under one small space, the needle. With hand sewing, you can sew with the garment on your lap, on a dress from, standing and sitting. You work on just the relevant area and don't add stress to the rest of the garment.</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">DELICATE FABRICS -When sewing with fabrics such as silk, hand stitching allows you to use less thread, and control the amount of layers you want the stitch to go through. On a machine the thread is continuous and goes through all of the layers, which can distort the fabric. Ever tried sewing a machine stitched narrow hem on bias cut silk chiffon? It's almost inevitable to end up with a hem that is twisted in some spots. This is basically non existent on a hand rolled hem.</li>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Hand Rolled Hem</span></b></div>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B9fEeySF0iN/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2020-03-08T20:06:54+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Mar 8, 2020 at 1:06pm PDT</time></div>
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<b>SWIPE for left and right-handed views.</b><br />
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I am currently having a love affair with hand rolled hems. It just seems to be one of those things that once you've tried it, nothing else compares.<br />
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Not only is a hand rolled hem visually pleasing with it's tube like plump finish, it is also mesmerising how it works! Making those stitches and then pulling the thread and watching them roll, is some sort of sewing magic. WATCH the first video above to see it in action!<br />
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As with anything, there are many ways to roll a hem, but the above is how I do it.<br />
There are two types of finishes for a hand rolled hem: The Italian and The French finish.<br />
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THE FRENCH rolled hem has the roll turned to the 'wrong' side of the fabric, which is typical for dress and skirt hems.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/how-to-fold-a-pocket-square/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnfKT3-ze2qIpcr28jwJlxMcUtukcSWnC_H-GYoHmf7x_051BmjSZkbZp-rqDELgSRgBd3pN-lXwOhWDv8vy5AT_j6KuDcUuI1msprB02QElFZ-YsMBhXo4h38khe6al8lYxp0C2wf8Tne/s1600/Screen-Shot-2020-01-29-at-12.36.44-PM.png" width="642" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Above is an example of a French rolled hem, where the roll is on the 'wrong' side of the fabric.<br />
This silk/wool blend pocket square is from <a href="https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/">Gentelman's Gazette</a>.</td></tr>
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THE ITALIAN rolled hem, and my personal favourite, is where the roll is turned to the right side of fabric. </div>
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This is a typical finish on couture pocket squares (my other current obsession) and scarves and a favourite for couture houses such as Hermes (which is French; the irony!).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyv8ATQjg3mJfG73lnH9sPdlwEMszlVWFSe9edgbawgn9EHyoV1JAbyDZW9QyH7i_52nWR1RyYD1IBXb1I5RMJRK62m-rw_ZzNnk0Ivc-ZJ0LLEI-mSa9adlb7uUKE5Ovstrl40E59qagk/s1600/Hand_Rolled_Pocket_Squares_large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyv8ATQjg3mJfG73lnH9sPdlwEMszlVWFSe9edgbawgn9EHyoV1JAbyDZW9QyH7i_52nWR1RyYD1IBXb1I5RMJRK62m-rw_ZzNnk0Ivc-ZJ0LLEI-mSa9adlb7uUKE5Ovstrl40E59qagk/s1600/Hand_Rolled_Pocket_Squares_large.jpg" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigPCDB8-1_U2zDgpIWBbnNQ78Kc7JMb2SH8F-EyJxfMhNSb4QKrHuNjawARgtwi3ZyBfAa8TN9QSlLHOPnzYPN_F4J2oVE8jhQi2etSWQYAOZc_-8nzTxNUT7AusxP1_cpu3s3zIDhaCw6/s1600/The-Reverse-Puff-Fold-Jacket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigPCDB8-1_U2zDgpIWBbnNQ78Kc7JMb2SH8F-EyJxfMhNSb4QKrHuNjawARgtwi3ZyBfAa8TN9QSlLHOPnzYPN_F4J2oVE8jhQi2etSWQYAOZc_-8nzTxNUT7AusxP1_cpu3s3zIDhaCw6/s1600/The-Reverse-Puff-Fold-Jacket.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
An Italian rolled hem, the roll is visible on the 'right' side of the fabric. The above silk twill pocket squares are from <a href="https://www.rampleyandco.com/blogs/the-journal/49744517-the-art-of-the-hand-rolled-pocket-square">Rampley & Co</a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Hand Pick Stitch</span></b></div>
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<div style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;">
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B8UuFpbAlip/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2020-02-08T23:07:26+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Feb 8, 2020 at 3:07pm PST</time></div>
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<b>SWIPE for left and right-handed views.</b><br />
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A pick, or prick stitch refers to small, subtle back stitches that can be used to under-stitch a facing or lining (as I've done in the above video for my slip dress), or as decorative top stitch on garments such as lapels and pockets.<br />
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A hand pick stitched lapel on a suit is a strong indicator of a bespoke, high quality suit. Because of this, many 'ready-to-wear' brands use pick stitching on their garments to make it look high-end, but when you look up close, the uniformity of the stitch is a clear give away that it was done by machine.<br />
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A hand pick-stitch has slight irregularities and is usually done with a silk thread. Once you see the difference it's quite easy to spot.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoiaMoCHS2SCPwPyT9tdaRz4ETwHQyUfRTHDS_77v2cDoGlSr7mMZ4nK5n6eXmdWTb5-mHon31NLFhNMWsmPjlmX1lwrqiDQUil6FHFAi88md-TJLn4b7kSWW5iZIIW0qvWzXYOXrgaWpT/s1600/lapel2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoiaMoCHS2SCPwPyT9tdaRz4ETwHQyUfRTHDS_77v2cDoGlSr7mMZ4nK5n6eXmdWTb5-mHon31NLFhNMWsmPjlmX1lwrqiDQUil6FHFAi88md-TJLn4b7kSWW5iZIIW0qvWzXYOXrgaWpT/s1600/lapel2.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A subtle, hand pick-stitched lapel from bespoke tailors <a href="https://www.burdichicago.com/su-misura-the-bespoke-burdi-suit/">Burdi Clothing</a></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b></div>
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The more I go down the rabbit hole of couture sewing, the more I fall in love with it and want to learn more! </div>
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What excites me the most, is that these techniques, though they may take a bit more time than a machine, are not complicated or reserved for the experienced and highly skilled. They are repetitive, easy enough stitches that home sewers can achieve whether beginner or advanced.</div>
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The end result is something beautiful, well engineered and a push back on fast fashion where everything is mass produced and not built to last. Hand sewing for the win!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbQZQTmMwv2ENtgsfPfEhvdZBRPkS0R2yHjOLCHuO7t_Hid3-kIiQ_y0IpoxhFTRr7ebz_Wi1g5k69O0YWt9Q82a56XPEvq-YK0HEUuuBmCj8N3e8pBST0028O03M0obYrNGLnWgGsCcAG/s1600/IMG_6669.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="julia bobbin" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbQZQTmMwv2ENtgsfPfEhvdZBRPkS0R2yHjOLCHuO7t_Hid3-kIiQ_y0IpoxhFTRr7ebz_Wi1g5k69O0YWt9Q82a56XPEvq-YK0HEUuuBmCj8N3e8pBST0028O03M0obYrNGLnWgGsCcAG/s1600/IMG_6669.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a><br />
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Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-65034457009801822902020-01-02T18:18:00.001+11:002020-01-02T18:18:57.839+11:00Me-Mades in 2019 - A Year In Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbyBpwiUwZFUGN0Y2J01ts85X5vkNclX1tAZQtbqEKLRNYoi93Hdl6UnryaUiEJcb4S9Jo3Zk3zyCJaUaEd02mN1KFRhnvNEkDO6Vo3ub1YHl60HIWqGas_-as7UZxZ_xOlnTkvzD5zLA6/s1600/Version+2+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbyBpwiUwZFUGN0Y2J01ts85X5vkNclX1tAZQtbqEKLRNYoi93Hdl6UnryaUiEJcb4S9Jo3Zk3zyCJaUaEd02mN1KFRhnvNEkDO6Vo3ub1YHl60HIWqGas_-as7UZxZ_xOlnTkvzD5zLA6/s1600/Version+2+%25281%2529.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b>2019 in the year of sewing has been an absolute joy.</b><br />
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I've had more time in front of my machine then I have had in over six years.<br />
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I celebrated my ten year sewing anniversary, and I fell head over heals in love with hand sewing and tailoring. I made my first (and second!) hand sewn, tailored jacket and I'm making good strides on my first three piece SUIT.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B6wHgs1gISK/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhilwuX1pdQ-q6fyPiNAvlqwEOgs9iMqAvzpXLNuwD0dHxE07Tx-ko-UktSrJ_zUtw-MwMNctysVRNobc3jNQwphEO4Kq8XXa68KQdAwwfZ8gd1gsCPyxH72_FoFwHvmfl8Zb7Xy-0duXLo/s1600/Screen+Shot+2020-01-01+at+7.57.15+pm.png" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click above to see more progress shots</td></tr>
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I've had the extreme pleasure of being interviewed for '<a href="https://seworganisedstylepodcast.com/2019/12/04/julia-bobbin-graces-sewn-mag/">Sew Organised Style' Podcast</a>, been featured in <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/12/the-lamour-dress-charm-patterns-by.html?m=0">'Sewn Magazine'</a>, participated in two 'Celebrity Copy Cat Challenges' with <a href="https://www.instagram.com/faithstjules/">my friend Faith</a>, and got to indulge in the <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/sewfrosting/?hl=en">#sewfrosting</a> delight that is <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/11/a-blazer-leather-skirt-silk-cami.html">Melbourne Frocktails</a>!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEO4oNjPopvuyICT_xhS9xfWinIcIGkm-nt63KQ8ZDIoWrDg27CNaadqUVEsljtpoikDfHYAC7QyKmc80hrumP1BVe6qRwQturoGyAgdsNlqX5WUA-ReKNBEvrDlZb31QPzPhj9Chsl6Iw/s1600/combo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEO4oNjPopvuyICT_xhS9xfWinIcIGkm-nt63KQ8ZDIoWrDg27CNaadqUVEsljtpoikDfHYAC7QyKmc80hrumP1BVe6qRwQturoGyAgdsNlqX5WUA-ReKNBEvrDlZb31QPzPhj9Chsl6Iw/s1600/combo.jpg" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clockwise from top left: 1. Podcast episode with 'Sew Organised Style' 2. Sewn Magazine Feature 3. Olivia Palermo copy-cat challenge 4. Rihanna copy-cat challenge</td></tr>
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<b>This year I have made the total of 25 new garments (three not yet blogged), which include:</b></div>
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Judging by the above data (Oh my God how good is a pie chart, though?!!) in 2019 you were likely to see me make a dress using silk with a solid colour.</div>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>On Reflection</b></span><br />
<br />
There's nothing like the closing of a year to make you stop and reflect back.<br />
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I know new years resolutions can seem like a set up, but I love the energy and hope that surrounds the early weeks of a new year, where anything and everything is possible and people seem more engaged and optimistic.<br />
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In 2020 I hope to see more hand-sewn, couture additions to my wardrobe and I am excited and grateful for the new year ahead.<br />
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THANK YOU to my readers for all your love and support you've shown me and my makes this year; it means more than you know <3<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Scroll below to see all my makes for 2019 - CLICK ON THE IMAGES to be directed to the blog post :)</b></div>
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Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-27031538554709827992019-12-11T19:33:00.001+11:002019-12-11T19:33:47.810+11:00Christy Slip Dress + Kate Bias top HACK - Just Patterns<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTF38jOTxceEcymi8393oVMthYWg1XxHcKjK_Y-8XAJR6sfHuTBoRNYdmH56K6tNeei6_J52H1URDSRF6eh9Guu3u4Ys_GVjtwZubmKJq25jX1lwdi4uGYRfoZ9wFk45viyIYPp9hV1o94/s1600/IMG_5741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTF38jOTxceEcymi8393oVMthYWg1XxHcKjK_Y-8XAJR6sfHuTBoRNYdmH56K6tNeei6_J52H1URDSRF6eh9Guu3u4Ys_GVjtwZubmKJq25jX1lwdi4uGYRfoZ9wFk45viyIYPp9hV1o94/s1600/IMG_5741.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOXbwQ_yDmT2Dn3roF1yqOk3UT239ylMc2glwN1tk1KoWPWY9YK2OmMx5Bb3W08EodHU63z0BQ-YYWapPV-neF7FRcoRZ13_93OnysKP2BoW7M7DNE-cFUo-EiSNYD8jAilXTMvfJ1sNfb/s1600/IMG_5714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOXbwQ_yDmT2Dn3roF1yqOk3UT239ylMc2glwN1tk1KoWPWY9YK2OmMx5Bb3W08EodHU63z0BQ-YYWapPV-neF7FRcoRZ13_93OnysKP2BoW7M7DNE-cFUo-EiSNYD8jAilXTMvfJ1sNfb/s1600/IMG_5714.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyKGoQXq_uU7Lk1WUYWhHewQEjt0Q8LB8wSKRx06wq0jFTmWqNlg3cak0W8xQuImDBxOPsJyc83q1fIsrHmR5FPSwZvpDUpnjPAlwrNrGeC8jc3kK6uhj9f9FqudFdDXUGF_nu2sfiU84R/s1600/IMG_5851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyKGoQXq_uU7Lk1WUYWhHewQEjt0Q8LB8wSKRx06wq0jFTmWqNlg3cak0W8xQuImDBxOPsJyc83q1fIsrHmR5FPSwZvpDUpnjPAlwrNrGeC8jc3kK6uhj9f9FqudFdDXUGF_nu2sfiU84R/s1600/IMG_5851.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern</span></b><br />
To make this dress I used the <a href="https://just-patterns.com/shop/christy-slip-dress">Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns</a>, with the front neckline of the <a href="https://just-patterns.com/shop/kate-bias-top">Kate Bias Top</a> also by Just Patterns.<br />
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I've made the bias top THREE TIMES, and it's just a balanced, well engineered design, so it knew it would translate well into a dress.<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/B3GCsKygcDC/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="12" style="background: #fff; border-radius: 3px; border: 0; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0 , 0 , 0 , 0.5) , 0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0 , 0 , 0 , 0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: 99.375%;">
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<div style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;">
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B3GCsKygcDC/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2019-10-01T23:41:52+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Oct 1, 2019 at 4:41pm PDT</time></div>
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<br />
I'm wearing the dress with my me-made leather jacket, <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2016/12/the-leather-jacket-burdastyle-108b.html">which you can read about here.</a><br />
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<script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Pattern Hack</span></b><br />
Because these two patterns are from the same company, this was a super easy hack.<br />
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I lay the Kate Bias top over the pattern for the Christy Slip, which both have the same width and shape from the side notch, which is conveniently positioned in the same spot.<br />
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I then simply traced the Kate Bias Top neckline onto the Christy Slip Dress pattern and cut out the modified pattern.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMJwFJGSnXT_RNJUupdtMGHD85YkILUZKmoI3Mb8l4Dsjh_YjWvP1bJS6v7A3YzeFxF2BATIoTH9Aw38akdCZlYGGQN2eJ2xUOHE7_8aKIBs0OrLpwEiSbYiVEGcixUQOzoMZbcJ1ZlBaT/s1600/IMG_6940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMJwFJGSnXT_RNJUupdtMGHD85YkILUZKmoI3Mb8l4Dsjh_YjWvP1bJS6v7A3YzeFxF2BATIoTH9Aw38akdCZlYGGQN2eJ2xUOHE7_8aKIBs0OrLpwEiSbYiVEGcixUQOzoMZbcJ1ZlBaT/s1600/IMG_6940.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Fabric</span></b><br />
A glorious <a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/collections/silk-satin/products/almond-silk-satin-22mm">silk satin from Tessuti Fabrics</a>.<br />
It has a 22mm weight, and is the colour 'almond'.<br />
Tessuti always stock the most beautiful silk satins, and I'm yet to find better quality elsewhere.<br />
<br />
The fabric is cut on the bias, interfaced at the necklines with silk organza and fully lined with a poly georgette.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKTBW3hFdYjfSAQ20ApEPeTonWGb5V-pPdrxJf-eaK0-b1GK1sBSfZfokjI-DwP4IGmPmvce_sbcr-ECtb6XtW0_x3MBLl98G8gKajG0pky4d_DPdbo844uKPt0KxMxBAZIsMTUlu0y5Ao/s1600/IMG_5698.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKTBW3hFdYjfSAQ20ApEPeTonWGb5V-pPdrxJf-eaK0-b1GK1sBSfZfokjI-DwP4IGmPmvce_sbcr-ECtb6XtW0_x3MBLl98G8gKajG0pky4d_DPdbo844uKPt0KxMxBAZIsMTUlu0y5Ao/s1600/IMG_5698.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ5MC-pswWIC5PzcSdogTEbZ-wcUZi94sxExN10ZTaRs1d5C7Y6i-tTQozHh1emtq0RIRKwyx_2i8QNzXBVJyGY4xlhobzKYilQ5vgX84umA5OvKmnAJbfsc8HB6G3U9EjUStJ6afXXIOd/s1600/IMG_5756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ5MC-pswWIC5PzcSdogTEbZ-wcUZi94sxExN10ZTaRs1d5C7Y6i-tTQozHh1emtq0RIRKwyx_2i8QNzXBVJyGY4xlhobzKYilQ5vgX84umA5OvKmnAJbfsc8HB6G3U9EjUStJ6afXXIOd/s1600/IMG_5756.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFbl2HJms1RzVjTWSqN8QGNuWqlosMKNB2vX_LvGcP5ROCOPy8oxBJNl3SQ62n8NmvsekFuciCO722gJ_YNwb0hrtQftkKSQ90Ed9apPOozZ3PKCntu4nAqybAb0FRfudx5rTIOcInRmFW/s1600/IMG_5745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFbl2HJms1RzVjTWSqN8QGNuWqlosMKNB2vX_LvGcP5ROCOPy8oxBJNl3SQ62n8NmvsekFuciCO722gJ_YNwb0hrtQftkKSQ90Ed9apPOozZ3PKCntu4nAqybAb0FRfudx5rTIOcInRmFW/s1600/IMG_5745.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Details</span></b><br />
This is a classic, straightforward dress, and I love adding extra details that make a dress more wearable and more precious.<br />
<br />
I FULLY LINED the dress, and FRENCHED my seams.<br />
<br />
Instead of under-stitching the neckline with a machine, I PICK-STITCHED the neckline on the inside of the garment. This gave me so much more control, and allowed me to reach spots on the neckline that you normally can't get to with a machine.<br />
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Narrow bias cut SPAGHETTI STRAPS hold the dress up at the shoulders.<br />
<br />
I finished the dress with a delicate NARROW HEM that looks so polished on bias cut fabric.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggn6DZ9JP6Qd0S3dTYvxrjap5uA6KPexjB-Uwoaq5s0kIsO94or5K_Egv8j6mN4mvhyphenhyphenLfzV9yKFi4Mh0ASL9ehP57wG0KRECqFA-YWHNITzdCUwe31qL6_9vv64gZBZsMHi7v2Gi4zdWw1/s1600/IMG_5726+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggn6DZ9JP6Qd0S3dTYvxrjap5uA6KPexjB-Uwoaq5s0kIsO94or5K_Egv8j6mN4mvhyphenhyphenLfzV9yKFi4Mh0ASL9ehP57wG0KRECqFA-YWHNITzdCUwe31qL6_9vv64gZBZsMHi7v2Gi4zdWw1/s1600/IMG_5726+%25281%2529.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ1Kcut0MGCSwYvdiQLU_i1jMa_xwXfOotv5Qqp2vIzSkEzgH10VO6s86DN-cyUHGCXiQP0Gaqqj67ch_e2VR0B25-f7MWw7RLLhIvaixv8HUSdl4_P1sl3YOAUc6voIkuihjDqOdWEMLh/s1600/IMG_5719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ1Kcut0MGCSwYvdiQLU_i1jMa_xwXfOotv5Qqp2vIzSkEzgH10VO6s86DN-cyUHGCXiQP0Gaqqj67ch_e2VR0B25-f7MWw7RLLhIvaixv8HUSdl4_P1sl3YOAUc6voIkuihjDqOdWEMLh/s1600/IMG_5719.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Neckline Tip</span></b><br />
To stabilise the neckline, I forewent the iron-on stay tape and used the pattern pieces to cut out a facing of silk organza (about 8cm in length).<br />
<br />
Silk satin cut on the bias is a tricky textile to deal with, and iron on interfacing, even stay tape, can distort the lovely drape of the bias fabric and the stiffness can show through to the outside of the garment.<br />
<br />
Using silk organza, which is about 6momme (mm) in weight, gives the neckline structure, support and strength, without adding bulk and is invisible from the right side.<br />
<br />
Just like regular interfacing, you attach it to the individual pattern pieces on the wrong side. I hand basted my organza facings along the necklines and side seams, and pinked the organza edges.<br />
<br />
The finished result is a smooth, sharp neckline that doesn't pucker, pull, flip out or bulge. It's well worth the extra 15 minutes it might take to cut out and attach.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBQIw6Isuzz4Wd5Gu1rxYU96nk4zSdD7nedMVIXN2mj3zmYI88eOL9Kh_ZTN6xaaFZWeUr3wx7SUHX1z-3Y1aPOAszQJT7wpu3tF9mHtEd99BEs0NbFkWR_zetms-2azPrqcGoIc2vmDik/s1600/IMG_6945.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBQIw6Isuzz4Wd5Gu1rxYU96nk4zSdD7nedMVIXN2mj3zmYI88eOL9Kh_ZTN6xaaFZWeUr3wx7SUHX1z-3Y1aPOAszQJT7wpu3tF9mHtEd99BEs0NbFkWR_zetms-2azPrqcGoIc2vmDik/s1600/IMG_6945.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW-7vS_wmYzOCI3chiClHuNdIHjGT_qtL_YcDI3TkiAsVJi9eKc-g2RHSL4VuajSptnWgEdG-cKrAVut-gnHvjcIz-ZSiA6m5Qvpzv2MUQltxoBmd_g3QNYX3ixcFPgYeaZWw6JUk2McLa/s1600/IMG_6956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW-7vS_wmYzOCI3chiClHuNdIHjGT_qtL_YcDI3TkiAsVJi9eKc-g2RHSL4VuajSptnWgEdG-cKrAVut-gnHvjcIz-ZSiA6m5Qvpzv2MUQltxoBmd_g3QNYX3ixcFPgYeaZWw6JUk2McLa/s1600/IMG_6956.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5TgEhlJusshxbw_Kd2HW16G3jGmTzzMmc6kb2cvOv1tLbDLj5198zZmUPs0Gg5_orIvds1Fyz8X-mRdQAxbiH6EtKS_FLT-gq5kSXS0prvYQET_ac-bwV7tLkjnkXymLFuvg7o-egvQ-C/s1600/IMG_6967.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5TgEhlJusshxbw_Kd2HW16G3jGmTzzMmc6kb2cvOv1tLbDLj5198zZmUPs0Gg5_orIvds1Fyz8X-mRdQAxbiH6EtKS_FLT-gq5kSXS0prvYQET_ac-bwV7tLkjnkXymLFuvg7o-egvQ-C/s1600/IMG_6967.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Changes</span></b><br />
I cut the pattern in a size 42 as the pattern was drafted with negative ease, and I wanted to make sure I allowed enough room for my lower body.<br />
<br />
Aside from hacking the neckline from the Kate Top, there were no fit changes.<br />
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I added 18cm to the length at the hem, as I love silk in a midi length and the original hem sits just below the knee.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCAxzR1wgS4wWvVQuKglgJM94IlWeXlrwkDOvpsUeU0dIzowN26fKMWLu9qOAFlpft9wq81LwbfE1NZi8YT2gYRNt3maFIuPRjcTgnsYeCjtrkT2YTXv-capvBcUOsAstCyIOrl6T9je46/s1600/IMG_5700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCAxzR1wgS4wWvVQuKglgJM94IlWeXlrwkDOvpsUeU0dIzowN26fKMWLu9qOAFlpft9wq81LwbfE1NZi8YT2gYRNt3maFIuPRjcTgnsYeCjtrkT2YTXv-capvBcUOsAstCyIOrl6T9je46/s1600/IMG_5700.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRigRA7S1Y-ric35UL9Iv6c9Zupa3n4V48qf6-Fj4Zlswr2FuXuaowqYR8FykUENv8tSZGFuRZZSoYb7ihGo7cIndDD3uY1d8xP39_0frNxmMpfs3rXigfOc9-ZT_QPp8q20MADGKG45nA/s1600/IMG_5749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRigRA7S1Y-ric35UL9Iv6c9Zupa3n4V48qf6-Fj4Zlswr2FuXuaowqYR8FykUENv8tSZGFuRZZSoYb7ihGo7cIndDD3uY1d8xP39_0frNxmMpfs3rXigfOc9-ZT_QPp8q20MADGKG45nA/s1600/IMG_5749.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp10KfhXPiHRurA0QbmB64Lve7PzNnJxW5Kk87jqY2qEzGvwVUZGLV8PeNteDMSG46uB3lnzMWOXt32uQ1YcEqNlUIwk1NsMraOuE_SRhvEjv9a-rZENei_DiE8i1OrJ0gwU2q0aMRvr9u/s1600/IMG_5712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp10KfhXPiHRurA0QbmB64Lve7PzNnJxW5Kk87jqY2qEzGvwVUZGLV8PeNteDMSG46uB3lnzMWOXt32uQ1YcEqNlUIwk1NsMraOuE_SRhvEjv9a-rZENei_DiE8i1OrJ0gwU2q0aMRvr9u/s1600/IMG_5712.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
I love the proportions of this bias cut dress and I love how it can transition from a day look to a night time look, depending on the shoes or the accessories.<br />
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It's super comfortable, straight forward to make and surprisingly flattering to wear on this curvy frame.<br />
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I think I just found my new favourite pattern for summer!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgLI_ADNl-aJdyEfu1nya3gtIacjhod36kX3lTWR4blbCO4JzNaADm2K-qmjVzV3693rdb7BfGkd2EsOG-lshbKbXkzeKj4ejdRdHzE-iKmJJ-Pn3xt-j4tcMwwlT7mHybac9ULpUs7aCC/s1600/IMG_5703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgLI_ADNl-aJdyEfu1nya3gtIacjhod36kX3lTWR4blbCO4JzNaADm2K-qmjVzV3693rdb7BfGkd2EsOG-lshbKbXkzeKj4ejdRdHzE-iKmJJ-Pn3xt-j4tcMwwlT7mHybac9ULpUs7aCC/s1600/IMG_5703.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil7emCSw3o5IuCjPfSaMa_hOhuir0tZza3G8EqFCrnGiBnHrXSVADMbbbSgP2vA0GG1C2209KVO95RXvmhvqydPZ-pcy9kzp7PsWx55YcJJRmHb1gY66vi_G-kmupaB1bSVh9cu7BqKdB1/s1600/IMG_5736.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Christy Slip Dress by Just Patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil7emCSw3o5IuCjPfSaMa_hOhuir0tZza3G8EqFCrnGiBnHrXSVADMbbbSgP2vA0GG1C2209KVO95RXvmhvqydPZ-pcy9kzp7PsWx55YcJJRmHb1gY66vi_G-kmupaB1bSVh9cu7BqKdB1/s1600/IMG_5736.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-76553212571640848272019-12-05T21:03:00.000+11:002019-12-05T21:03:01.102+11:00The Lamour Dress - Charm Patterns By Gertie and SEWN MAGAZINE FEATURE<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYFkzUBTX6pqBKSTq2eMCkPO1cj2gnbfxOwS0n02c_Lw-RJITT4HS0ZJkjiGmjUOABtEuoW7btBh0cEDC4i998a7j7WYSh1E6mjyxXLDFAbEq-cNNAbfF5lZZO0CD2410huGZDjZ5GTh6n/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Lamour Dress by Charm Patterns by Gertie" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYFkzUBTX6pqBKSTq2eMCkPO1cj2gnbfxOwS0n02c_Lw-RJITT4HS0ZJkjiGmjUOABtEuoW7btBh0cEDC4i998a7j7WYSh1E6mjyxXLDFAbEq-cNNAbfF5lZZO0CD2410huGZDjZ5GTh6n/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+1.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a><br />
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Well look at that, your girl is in a VINTAGE DRESS! </div>
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When I first started sewing, my favourite thing to make was vintage dresses. I still dearly love vintage fashion, but over the years my style has evolved with more of a modern influence.</div>
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So when Michelle from <a href="https://www.sewnmag.com/">Sewn Magazine</a> messaged me and asked if I'd like to feature in their fabulous magazine and would I mind making something VINTAGE (and with a Christmas theme!), I jumped at the chance!!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz09thtkfIdSQHNkvjsmHrqIpSn4MFAg6bHyvwhZ4xhbkxgHyFSpJhdF31nlD-Trl49l2Fw905KVjw5LsUjYsccLKv98z6t3I53xO2Aj0LwmrQ3U1Y4Wot9F11-uqfmSZ7t7DqZl2bYbG4/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Lamour Dress by Charm Patterns by Gertie" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz09thtkfIdSQHNkvjsmHrqIpSn4MFAg6bHyvwhZ4xhbkxgHyFSpJhdF31nlD-Trl49l2Fw905KVjw5LsUjYsccLKv98z6t3I53xO2Aj0LwmrQ3U1Y4Wot9F11-uqfmSZ7t7DqZl2bYbG4/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+7.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern</span></b><br />
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It's the <a href="https://charmpatterns.bygertie.com/shop/lamour-dress/">Lamour Dress by Charm Patterns by Gertie</a>. This pattern has recently been updated and expanded, ranging from size 2 (US) to 20 and cup sizes A to H.<br />
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With different bodice, skirt and finishing options, there are 18 different dress combinations that you can make with this one clever pattern.<br />
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I made the princess seamed bodice with bodice sash, and the sarong skirt.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Sizing</span></b><br />
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I originally cut a size 10 and after making the toile, went down to a size 8.<br />
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As is suggested in the pattern, if you want minimal ease in your dress (i.e. more fitted to the body) it is better to choose your size based on the 'finished measurements', rather than the 'recommended measurements' chart.<br />
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I am larger busted but maybe because of my shorter torso combined with a bodice that is strapless and not covering the complete breast area, the A/B cup version fit me well. I find this is often the case when I sew strapless patterns.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivKtSgLctDEdTsaZJ8XoxbvlJ7hiUWckctvHNziHFlDkZIEnvYJDLPMEY7QbjU7G3mo0YIy9aNKbnwJPqIdtbEax0WIf_AGMjdN80uUhXl5rURnMUTs06a9Llbxwme9zSaRySeZ7CyDxxb/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Lamour Dress by Charm Patterns by Gertie" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivKtSgLctDEdTsaZJ8XoxbvlJ7hiUWckctvHNziHFlDkZIEnvYJDLPMEY7QbjU7G3mo0YIy9aNKbnwJPqIdtbEax0WIf_AGMjdN80uUhXl5rURnMUTs06a9Llbxwme9zSaRySeZ7CyDxxb/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+3.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Fabric</span></b><br />
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I used a beautiful quilting cotton from<a href="https://gjsdiscountfabrics.com.au/"> GJ's Fabrics</a> and the print was perfect for this Christmas themed, tiki style vintage dress!<br />
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It was also nice to branch out to more a loud print! I typically sew with solid colours. They're often bright colours(!) but solid, so this felt different for me and I really enjoyed it!<br />
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The bodice is underlined with silk organza and lined with a polyester lining.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Details</span></b><br />
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More and more these days I get excited by garments that have more engineering and structure on the inside. Typically this requires more time, but I really enjoy this type of sewing and it has never failed to produce a garment that is more likely to be worn and loved.<br />
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This dress has a bodice with THREE LAYERS - the garment fabric (the part you see on the outside), underlining (the middle layer) and the lining (the layer that touches your body).<br />
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THE BONING AND CHANNELS were attached to the lining layer, which was new for me.<br />
In the past I have placed the channels on the middle layer (the underlining) which is then sandwiched by the other two layers. The result was just as effective in any case.<br />
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The hem of this FAUX WRAP SKIRT comes with a HEM FACING which I absolutely love.<br />
The long width of the facing gives the hem body and weight, which is missing from so many modern dresses these days. It also ensures the shape of the hem is exact and not distorted.<br />
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The dress is closed with a LAPPED ZIPPER which I think looks so beautiful on a vintage dress, and the lining of the bodice is HAND STITCHED to the garment waistline.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Iy9t1y4czg3icbWTOQPvoDocZ6s-cJXGLl_34XrdydV4Dotda_GY1aNIN8nuNLE90pt_88_fFv0TrJ6UgUFT6MIUqkcNsgDhFA47x1wXTyLURGA4b2hjfYYDKM0issUgoG_x3iw3O29c/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Lamour Dress by Charm Patterns by Gertie" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Iy9t1y4czg3icbWTOQPvoDocZ6s-cJXGLl_34XrdydV4Dotda_GY1aNIN8nuNLE90pt_88_fFv0TrJ6UgUFT6MIUqkcNsgDhFA47x1wXTyLURGA4b2hjfYYDKM0issUgoG_x3iw3O29c/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+6.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhufnBYWnJUViInyR1y1PWNtrXzRJekbeeEo501z-1575oOKIH-jdIr-F7498YQmlGYjBO7DIB5JSoT7X5LF69AtcVo3Fp0gMI_qvgYohdN7zWbIY0LkCso8-7x2Jt_D-BEvtwj_2lx_Biy/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Lamour Dress by Charm Patterns by Gertie" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhufnBYWnJUViInyR1y1PWNtrXzRJekbeeEo501z-1575oOKIH-jdIr-F7498YQmlGYjBO7DIB5JSoT7X5LF69AtcVo3Fp0gMI_qvgYohdN7zWbIY0LkCso8-7x2Jt_D-BEvtwj_2lx_Biy/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+5.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Look Out For</span></b><br />
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With all the construction and shaping of this dress, it is really important to make a muslin/toile first. You don't want to go to all that effort for a dress that doesn't fit right, and in this type of silhouette, a poor fit is hard to hide.<br />
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The instructions for this pattern are wonderful and well thought out, but even still the construction of the flounce and faux wrap can take a little bit to get your head around. Making a muslin means you get to practise the steps without making irredeemable mistakes on the real thing.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
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What an honour and thrill it was to be featured in the Nov/Dec issue of <a href="https://www.sewnmag.com/">Sewn Magazine</a> 2019!<br />
I'm so grateful to be included amongst such talented seamstresses and thoroughly enjoyed re-visiting my love for vintage sewing!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWMO9F8uMmCxhelow49BMKTRgtO8EMLfDcROD3AOQYa_8jLOIsMRY0fVAYlnwg5dqYWAcBPJIT-dVTugak7eU8l5MQQ3PR0VJrCQlewqvJ2ZOrMgPuONtvxQGllwxueoryGP5rIfHEamLE/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Lamour Dress by Charm Patterns by Gertie" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWMO9F8uMmCxhelow49BMKTRgtO8EMLfDcROD3AOQYa_8jLOIsMRY0fVAYlnwg5dqYWAcBPJIT-dVTugak7eU8l5MQQ3PR0VJrCQlewqvJ2ZOrMgPuONtvxQGllwxueoryGP5rIfHEamLE/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+2.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY6EDh05Xjyqz4i8zmcZcUVrPBCnD73QP_gcxQVOwmNQSpT2n8eMhE4kV2ZjjMWKcEYQm0lR9iWfqgJ3lhZwtN8HSueLy2F39ndU1X2vBGvUyP0EzOwndJjURRzvfZoKG4plL1-bP2SzY_/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Lamour Dress by Charm Patterns by Gertie" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY6EDh05Xjyqz4i8zmcZcUVrPBCnD73QP_gcxQVOwmNQSpT2n8eMhE4kV2ZjjMWKcEYQm0lR9iWfqgJ3lhZwtN8HSueLy2F39ndU1X2vBGvUyP0EzOwndJjURRzvfZoKG4plL1-bP2SzY_/s1600/Julia+Bobbin+4.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-20538685781686281302019-11-20T18:26:00.000+11:002019-11-20T18:26:19.157+11:00A blazer + Leather skirt + Silk Cami = Melbourne FROCKTAILS 2019<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitGO0KT0lGuPO-RIZyNWXnDxuVXZhGnDMKTz44k1aeYCihhBxnojnDdmVc2sJI1gFNtweooclJnPRzl058Jge1-_oendUDhNvWCvFc6kPYbPJ4xYddjzh8nPMp3eodenA1sbK5XSm2WKLh/s1600/IMG_6000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitGO0KT0lGuPO-RIZyNWXnDxuVXZhGnDMKTz44k1aeYCihhBxnojnDdmVc2sJI1gFNtweooclJnPRzl058Jge1-_oendUDhNvWCvFc6kPYbPJ4xYddjzh8nPMp3eodenA1sbK5XSm2WKLh/s1600/IMG_6000.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdjxT9K3l8ZqAIM4iCCpK4Jgsl6SUS82W2bZGsTrfSBw3hVEluV5xJUOtz-PyMhX2EqpAWXuxFSmgcMww1uVweDuYrYvwW-zk4ghaUiUJ3rLhu4JA_3O0lnxloNPuvqmD1neK7mr17sADT/s1600/IMG_5900.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdjxT9K3l8ZqAIM4iCCpK4Jgsl6SUS82W2bZGsTrfSBw3hVEluV5xJUOtz-PyMhX2EqpAWXuxFSmgcMww1uVweDuYrYvwW-zk4ghaUiUJ3rLhu4JA_3O0lnxloNPuvqmD1neK7mr17sADT/s1600/IMG_5900.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiPuWyO1QnBJ-4uuiZH974uAobjnwwm7FK9hGglPmtzpjlfrDqX4UuZqtTSXZgrD9Q1W2hyphenhyphend6tY1fcaL9VFoF8FQ3zxRAfhICR60JI4MQSVtN7yRI7nXrYuFTeoSr9ecP_0_meitAff8nQ/s1600/IMG_5911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiPuWyO1QnBJ-4uuiZH974uAobjnwwm7FK9hGglPmtzpjlfrDqX4UuZqtTSXZgrD9Q1W2hyphenhyphend6tY1fcaL9VFoF8FQ3zxRAfhICR60JI4MQSVtN7yRI7nXrYuFTeoSr9ecP_0_meitAff8nQ/s1600/IMG_5911.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgakqH4buIZ1raN4Ymw9VR8fJfHLxZ-0Wbr2XJPbiTwhFCD3SJVdCLTrX92EVuVzxgk75vM3SSdhB4mN2WF39F_inZmWUD4nhm8X0J4SqQ-0zYpLGd17OxFe5dfkqtnFDjyxsLhwHlD-BMk/s1600/IMG_6060.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgakqH4buIZ1raN4Ymw9VR8fJfHLxZ-0Wbr2XJPbiTwhFCD3SJVdCLTrX92EVuVzxgk75vM3SSdhB4mN2WF39F_inZmWUD4nhm8X0J4SqQ-0zYpLGd17OxFe5dfkqtnFDjyxsLhwHlD-BMk/s1600/IMG_6060.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>MELBOURNE FROCKTAILS TIME!</b></span><br />
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Melbourne Frocktails, organised by the fabulous <a href="https://www.instagram.com/lightningmcstitch/?hl=en">Shelley</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ldjdesign/">Lisa</a>, has quickly become the anticipated sewing highlight of the year!<br />
It's a night of socialising, fabric stroking and dressing up in a me-made outfit of your choice.<br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;">THIS YEAR I made:</span><br />
<ul>
<li>A tailored blazer, complete with full canvas interfacing, pad stitching and hand stitched everything</li>
<li>A leather skirt and</li>
<li>A silk cami.</li>
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So, you know, just kept it casual, obvs.<br />
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Here's a few pics from the night, posing with my sewing bestie, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/jorthknits/?hl=en">Leisl</a> from <a href="https://jorth.blogspot.com/">the blog Jorth</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwdYyUY3lAhCU3WwkNHCpuYfTDen1mnbBFTlmeNhqffj6rbCatckirPzQP3wfNHmsjfuoILxqQY39kmukL9jEA3gCsao9dTiy9_8rv-dokTFf-l5NH-LySbfKKoq_1XcuUwwv5IGzK2qNK/s1600/Frocktails-44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwdYyUY3lAhCU3WwkNHCpuYfTDen1mnbBFTlmeNhqffj6rbCatckirPzQP3wfNHmsjfuoILxqQY39kmukL9jEA3gCsao9dTiy9_8rv-dokTFf-l5NH-LySbfKKoq_1XcuUwwv5IGzK2qNK/s1600/Frocktails-44.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.samaracliffordphoto.com/">Photo by Samara Clifford Photography</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Cipu9CeP3y3-gbW3wxYTsRCaqZ5ssgzSV3pF7oXSCvdhwnvOdKfv_NLibPNom5Tw-GLqfFXUPyLn342dR-SzyZAZZdA3mA9yhDSwRzU4MrkipfpxMaTSRCHZwoApyNUZyUcy5DBwkmdX/s1600/Frocktails-50.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Cipu9CeP3y3-gbW3wxYTsRCaqZ5ssgzSV3pF7oXSCvdhwnvOdKfv_NLibPNom5Tw-GLqfFXUPyLn342dR-SzyZAZZdA3mA9yhDSwRzU4MrkipfpxMaTSRCHZwoApyNUZyUcy5DBwkmdX/s1600/Frocktails-50.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.samaracliffordphoto.com/">Photo by Samara Clifford Photography</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGeGAvxYHpU5_eJSmfRPxeucviK5k1npAkG2XfF5OjV4Q-oYdaMKZl7-3DtZfZyKNa0Mv95vu_YgyS08ME08OKxziwK3-tR-b-4pd6Nc9S2GrvuKFOtGNdh6O9trycGspKBFzgBBjLgppG/s1600/Frocktails-57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGeGAvxYHpU5_eJSmfRPxeucviK5k1npAkG2XfF5OjV4Q-oYdaMKZl7-3DtZfZyKNa0Mv95vu_YgyS08ME08OKxziwK3-tR-b-4pd6Nc9S2GrvuKFOtGNdh6O9trycGspKBFzgBBjLgppG/s1600/Frocktails-57.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.samaracliffordphoto.com/">Photo by Samara Clifford Photography</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIzXzIaeN888EAhr9sVqM6JRzgFmQlBAP6lwFjglQa_LV4O04dq4Wq3wW4q2WJ9p9CkCUItEaRV_2GTv02sdTS5ysiGgflzbNnwopBVf4nBvGYzc5Er_RuKLo4QSUz3QXiYbzmGZ2qih4f/s1600/Frocktails-61.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIzXzIaeN888EAhr9sVqM6JRzgFmQlBAP6lwFjglQa_LV4O04dq4Wq3wW4q2WJ9p9CkCUItEaRV_2GTv02sdTS5ysiGgflzbNnwopBVf4nBvGYzc5Er_RuKLo4QSUz3QXiYbzmGZ2qih4f/s1600/Frocktails-61.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.samaracliffordphoto.com/">Photo by Samara Clifford Photography</a></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Blazer</span></b><br />
<br />
It's Burda 6875, in View B in a size 12 (with modifications) that I shortened by 10cm.<br />
<br />
THE FABRIC is an incredibly stunning (stunning!!) 210gms silk wool blend (51% silk/49% wool) from Mood Fabrics in colour <a href="https://www.moodfabrics.com/whisper-white-silk-wool-pv9900-s2?nosto=nosto-page-category1">'Whisper White'</a><br />
The fabric has a tight weave and the true colour is more of an ivory than a white.<br />
<br />
The jacket is lined with a decadent 22mm silk satin from <a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/">Tessuti Fabrics</a> in Ivory<br />
<br />
I recently made my FIRST EVER tailored jacket and I was so in love with the creative process and the final result, that I immediately dived into making my SECOND ONE.<br />
<br />
Most of this jacket is HAND SEWN and comes with the following:<br />
<ul>
<li>Pad stitched lapels and under-collar</li>
<li>Silk organza back stay</li>
<li>Double welt pockets with flaps</li>
<li>Hand sewn lining</li>
<li>Sleeve heads and shoulder pads</li>
<li>Full canvas interfacing - Soft Hair Canvas from <a href="https://www.spotlightstores.com/">Spotlight Stores</a></li>
<li>Canvas (hair cloth) sleeve and hem interfacing</li>
<li>Bound buttonhole closure</li>
<li>Wool felt under collar, fell stitched in place. Wool felt from <a href="https://twobluebirdies.com.au/">Two Blue Birdies</a></li>
<li>Ventred and mitred sleeve hems</li>
<li>Silk thread for all hand stitching</li>
</ul>
<div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCRJqg1sNSRcqA3tl9NNvAyxeo3Tpcq0Kl_OQFUHnBdiNuRpsYO2GQaL3JUsq8Nqm68l3qZK2Exl57eqfqlGxOR6rDtOWsaq1FdpK_4wNyNJpedcXb1FqAnlf5TrAGtk1SMJjgbc-D-Ko/s1600/IMG_5987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCRJqg1sNSRcqA3tl9NNvAyxeo3Tpcq0Kl_OQFUHnBdiNuRpsYO2GQaL3JUsq8Nqm68l3qZK2Exl57eqfqlGxOR6rDtOWsaq1FdpK_4wNyNJpedcXb1FqAnlf5TrAGtk1SMJjgbc-D-Ko/s1600/IMG_5987.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOf0RhkIjvqux1b6e5TbutloZiJCyAuAmSP_XVjgDIkkvNmVnkbFI0I7fjHMB9ueMNn37R_JbVQuSVMxmuRR5wpTbt2N3Gij0dWel4NkKGD8gdZyemBizVvZdeBpnmLyhtF91l9px5qvPC/s1600/IMG_5920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOf0RhkIjvqux1b6e5TbutloZiJCyAuAmSP_XVjgDIkkvNmVnkbFI0I7fjHMB9ueMNn37R_JbVQuSVMxmuRR5wpTbt2N3Gij0dWel4NkKGD8gdZyemBizVvZdeBpnmLyhtF91l9px5qvPC/s1600/IMG_5920.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7dNrEQiX772XLKXyxxnSdLVrL_10GoxAqCN7d3LK01-ZrZGUuYJV-RRzOFORmvYVJYjOElGeUnvUnTW90z6auVV2X4hXobB-qeFIuwQJme9mzdNAwrWkcaC1p3sr5knaE6EJxoVuQtXbJ/s1600/IMG_6004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7dNrEQiX772XLKXyxxnSdLVrL_10GoxAqCN7d3LK01-ZrZGUuYJV-RRzOFORmvYVJYjOElGeUnvUnTW90z6auVV2X4hXobB-qeFIuwQJme9mzdNAwrWkcaC1p3sr5knaE6EJxoVuQtXbJ/s1600/IMG_6004.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
Changes:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Hand stitched the under collar and upper collar to the gore line and lapels by hand</li>
<li>Added a single welt, breast pocket</li>
<li>Shortened length of jacket by 10cm</li>
<li>Curved the front of jacket facing hem to mimic a suit jacket and not a coat</li>
<li>Lengthened the sleeve vents to 11cm</li>
<li>Added a back stay</li>
<li>Added twill tape to roll line of lapel</li>
<li>Changed from a two button closure to a one button closure and lowered the position of the button closure slightly.</li>
</ul>
</div>
You can check out my photo heavy post with all the details of how I constructed my tailored blazers <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/11/inside-tailored-jacket-taking-look-at.html">here: 'Inside the Tailored Jacket - Taking a Look at the Couture Construction of Burda 6875'</a><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-7WS_g5Qx1G8hEUtG6cHrAKgUZeDlWVM7By7DRePUmnzHV_QRp-Y4zdHqdEdxeZf9b3en3jhNC79Qh6YpOZz37XBzAH6TALrcvSm1hgIVP-wGpRuLsTEIp1oyaL0t4jzql1g2KJrZCnQH/s1600/IMG_5880.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-7WS_g5Qx1G8hEUtG6cHrAKgUZeDlWVM7By7DRePUmnzHV_QRp-Y4zdHqdEdxeZf9b3en3jhNC79Qh6YpOZz37XBzAH6TALrcvSm1hgIVP-wGpRuLsTEIp1oyaL0t4jzql1g2KJrZCnQH/s1600/IMG_5880.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguVybC50qAfXJplJiw8eOx4UI-Gxv9FHqt-0HCfv4ilKN0SMydbHQ9gUVsDISCr9awalFwyJA912XTJR8xfcbydS3xh6yD3W7z_rf_Zkmi1iyjvY23Xdfu0IA4G1j8K-N46Urk0T7tZGgd/s1600/IMG_5914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguVybC50qAfXJplJiw8eOx4UI-Gxv9FHqt-0HCfv4ilKN0SMydbHQ9gUVsDISCr9awalFwyJA912XTJR8xfcbydS3xh6yD3W7z_rf_Zkmi1iyjvY23Xdfu0IA4G1j8K-N46Urk0T7tZGgd/s1600/IMG_5914.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigC8p-sLs5kF9Ba7t15_liSVTgMiv3l-IWVDPkwgCZD7R46BBoH2uFzMHRr5n-eAJhLZnw17MfwGiFDz4_R6peJDBEV1sCJxP8VW0Bf88vsX0XcJvl3382tdqaHmjJreEnMp7N-urGP_n9/s1600/IMG_6059.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigC8p-sLs5kF9Ba7t15_liSVTgMiv3l-IWVDPkwgCZD7R46BBoH2uFzMHRr5n-eAJhLZnw17MfwGiFDz4_R6peJDBEV1sCJxP8VW0Bf88vsX0XcJvl3382tdqaHmjJreEnMp7N-urGP_n9/s1600/IMG_6059.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Skirt</span></b><br />
<br />
The skirt is SELF DRAFTED with a centre front seam and a waistband.<br />
<br />
It's made with black nappa leather from <a href="https://www.leffler.com.au/">Leffler Leather Merchant</a> and is closed with a metal zipper down the centre back.<br />
<br />
I MADE THE HEM OF THE SKIRT BACK 2cm's longer than the front of the skirt, grading out from the side seam. I've found that my bigger bottom tends to lift the hem the skirt, and adding the extra length meant that the hem line looked completely straight all the way around!<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS0xLMTZQKB0gmo_9soiXRgLhntFlFWxCxzDlrnd-S9PYpMhy3ktZArZlC1Npd56OuoP75pjD0qo-iYe_4cEihbTDNK2qX-OItC4LiR5LjAbrYTl0F8_vFBT_5MKsJdkwoQqJplCwvR7jT/s1600/IMG_5873.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS0xLMTZQKB0gmo_9soiXRgLhntFlFWxCxzDlrnd-S9PYpMhy3ktZArZlC1Npd56OuoP75pjD0qo-iYe_4cEihbTDNK2qX-OItC4LiR5LjAbrYTl0F8_vFBT_5MKsJdkwoQqJplCwvR7jT/s1600/IMG_5873.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiymD5fd35fRr3AXzoQ7Foj1liJbR6ah08op9ZPFajeNQH1yTNILUmG695X4LmVqEUDxZlpMh6R40pO-CmPvQe_UjOcEU1E3rGpvzRJ68me2CI6NBSzhW-Hy9XjTQ8dueHE7TeNnxGEllfZ/s1600/IMG_5944.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiymD5fd35fRr3AXzoQ7Foj1liJbR6ah08op9ZPFajeNQH1yTNILUmG695X4LmVqEUDxZlpMh6R40pO-CmPvQe_UjOcEU1E3rGpvzRJ68me2CI6NBSzhW-Hy9XjTQ8dueHE7TeNnxGEllfZ/s1600/IMG_5944.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
<u><br /></u>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Cami</span></b><br />
<br />
It's the <a href="https://just-patterns.com/shop/kate-bias-top">Kate Bias Top by Just Patterns</a> (my third!) in a beautiful floaty silk satin from <a href="https://www.homecrafttextiles.com.au/shop/fabrics/satin-silk-lining-fabrics/">Home Craft Fabrics</a><br />
<br />
You can see my other two versions (and reviews) of the Kate Bias Top <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/10/silk-cami-kate-bias-top-by-just-patterns.html">here</a> and <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2018/11/kate-bias-top-by-just-patterns.html">here</a><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvFfcJVvUIJpSpkAyzz654Bs75japs4i4vSnYLjwo5wnZ0huZjh_t2Hcwem1qRsPU0H1LnOVBkFwr9JUUHKKvg5NNV44ajvVyyDehyphenhypheneTQPzdJthyWvQSjMBUilIVkW4RJm0bbEObwa4CZ1/s1600/IMG_5980.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvFfcJVvUIJpSpkAyzz654Bs75japs4i4vSnYLjwo5wnZ0huZjh_t2Hcwem1qRsPU0H1LnOVBkFwr9JUUHKKvg5NNV44ajvVyyDehyphenhypheneTQPzdJthyWvQSjMBUilIVkW4RJm0bbEObwa4CZ1/s1600/IMG_5980.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg28awdoHf9gnvRKozA0AstHIZMEfMiIohesrror_iTK53W2EeiFR0ySSsGw1z3xM2WvTAG8W-r-tOvXA8XEXCaLoz_DxTPLdeJg0Q85jd9lVHz5j5W4ILImJ8oShHiDA12JaOmj_FceHTT/s1600/IMG_5874.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin me made - Burda 6875 Blazer + Leather Skirt + Kate Bias Top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg28awdoHf9gnvRKozA0AstHIZMEfMiIohesrror_iTK53W2EeiFR0ySSsGw1z3xM2WvTAG8W-r-tOvXA8XEXCaLoz_DxTPLdeJg0Q85jd9lVHz5j5W4ILImJ8oShHiDA12JaOmj_FceHTT/s1600/IMG_5874.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
<br />
My heart is full meeting and catching up with wonderful, like minded people. The ladies really put on an amazing night with some fabulous sponsors and I was so impressed at the quality and variety of wonderful me-made clothing.<br />
<br />
Melbourne, you are awesome!!!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/11/my-first-tailored-blazer-burda-6875.html">You can check out my blog post for my First Tailored Blazer here:</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/11/inside-tailored-jacket-taking-look-at.html">You can check out my blog post detailing how I constructed my tailored jacket here:</a><br />
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Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-1354426137594320732019-11-15T18:50:00.001+11:002019-11-15T18:50:37.334+11:00INSIDE the Tailored Jacket - Taking a look at the Couture Construction of Burda 6875<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px;">I recently finished my first ever tailored blazer and I decided to do a second post for those of you who wanted a bit more detail on the construction of this blazer.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px;">If you just want to see the FINISHED LOOK, feel free to click on the image below <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/11/my-first-tailored-blazer-burda-6875.html">to go to the original post! :)</a></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-size: large; font-weight: 700;">Now's the time to go to the bathroom and grab those snacks because this post is a LONG one...</span></span><br />
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-weight: 700;">The Pattern: </span><span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;">This is Burda 6875</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-weight: 700;">Pattern Sizing: </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">Euro 34-44.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I cut a size 38 (with modifications) in View A (shorter length).</span><br />
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<img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia4h8FbI6XHfDEf8Z-KOtWBF5dW3xmC230k6CFQyEBscMoxqMhS0KVWAylJN9fKoG8i98UZDfD7G-4XgYfazNAIi0OwV6uG9VhunJ3b-Eky28eDl8Df8Pbqrq7-3yZqoVsE1N3jguftoLV/s1600/IMG_6272.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP8rdnZzfkWkMEUvhNqU5ViYLo-sVlDs0nkwN9adEIh_OYxASP6Za3VR7SKC8e94XrtYlBqmQRdLx3J0qXw-n72qnH2IiNS7f6ul9rDVkJPIUdZ7QVVlBrhaaBUmjwgi1BSALVsrEBqwbm/s1600/IMG_6273.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP8rdnZzfkWkMEUvhNqU5ViYLo-sVlDs0nkwN9adEIh_OYxASP6Za3VR7SKC8e94XrtYlBqmQRdLx3J0qXw-n72qnH2IiNS7f6ul9rDVkJPIUdZ7QVVlBrhaaBUmjwgi1BSALVsrEBqwbm/s1600/IMG_6273.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-weight: 700;">The instructions:</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"> As is consistent with Burda patterns, the drafting and details of the pattern are excellent.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The instructions are detailed in some areas and lacking in others, but mostly I disregarded them and constructed the jacket in my own order.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">As always when sewing something that is detail heavy like a jacket, a TOILE IS A MUST Not just for the fit but to practise the techniques and to fill in the missing gaps in the instructions.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">TIP: When trying on your toile, pin in your shoulder pads. This pattern has been drafted to include them, so you don't want to mistake a caving above the chest as a fit issue, when it actually just needs to be lifted with a shoulder pad.</span><br />
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: inherit; font-weight: 700;">What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I love the NARROW LAPEL of this blazer which is flattering and modern.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Burda patterns always include the little extras like ease at the shoulders, pleats in the centre back lining for extra movement, and sleeve vents.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Double welt pockets and two piece sleeves that are beautifully shaped are some other features of this great jacket.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-weight: 700;">Fabric Used:</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"> A double wool crepe (Mood Fabrics)</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Soft hair canvas for interfacing (Spotlight)</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Silk organza for back stay (My stash)</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Liberty of London cotton lawn for pocket lining (GJ's Fabrics)</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Wool felt for under collar (GJ's Fabrics)</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Silk Satin (19momme) for lining (HomeCraft Textiles)</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Organic cotton wadding for the sleeve heads (Spotlight)</span><br />
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: inherit; font-weight: 700;">Construction Changes and Tailoring:</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I have been wanting for a long time to make a tailored jacket using traditional bespoke methods, and I finally worked up the courage to try it for the first time!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I chose this pattern and made a toile, and with the aid of the book 'Tailoring:The Classic Guide To Sewing The Perfect Jacket', and bits and pieces that I found on the internet I decided to give it a go. Below are the details of how I've constructed my jacket.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Note: I deviate from the book in quite a few areas where I've found other techniques work better for me personally.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAqhkMryzwIjZqbUvTHWU-26QV2zEUy-JMxFh_1FnVlXbmniK2p7AKqLQhIPvF4phm930VJ0uEoMYJL_RcRdlWct100ZJ1aZ4pkcn1oMCHxOD7yvMz5-LVy7yLkdovj9v1QydRk9RhhNM/s1600/IMG_6520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAqhkMryzwIjZqbUvTHWU-26QV2zEUy-JMxFh_1FnVlXbmniK2p7AKqLQhIPvF4phm930VJ0uEoMYJL_RcRdlWct100ZJ1aZ4pkcn1oMCHxOD7yvMz5-LVy7yLkdovj9v1QydRk9RhhNM/s1600/IMG_6520.jpg" title="" width="312" /></a></div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: inherit; font-weight: 700;">FIT CHANGES:</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I cut a size 38 and tapered out one extra cm from the waist to the hem at the side seams, and side back princess seams, effectively doing a full butt adjustment.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I also did a sway back adjustment with the widest reduction being 2cm at the centre back.</span><br />
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: inherit; font-weight: 700;">DOUBLE WELT POCKETS</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I've always loved how double welts look and I was excited to play with these. I made a practise one before I cut into my fabric and I'm so glad I did.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The placement of these pockets is on an open seam, so it's not constructed the typical way.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I added a 1" strip of silk organza, centring it over one end of the pocket (the side back end) going straight up to the underarm. This reinforces the pocket and stops the bodice from sagging because of the opening.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I steamed and stretched out the strips of fabric that would become the lips of the welts before attaching them to the pocket.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCPn6zKXVVDnFnfjLOF5hr8H4zbCcJaRNKrHE97m8u04WmNGiGW356dIxEpXLIonto_Y0AGONgllV3I8UP7xOsFbvX9v_q3lsjKh2sIJ4Rcn7qx4heqU3XQ-9UU_q5_VPs0XL7NFpV9GGH/s1600/AB2A007A-DB57-4EA5-9140-128971DA41D2.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj735ssp1qa5KftYuaXpiH6IOmnauHb9vWXp0aXzHN2vULeBQOlooX9Rahzxt5XBBWqBJ_XUXq5_w0mgDboz6oOEoLvUxEwNIHMDejaE4tK6erg2-8N_s1fGUM5Ytjw9Wy1qGfFDl_fvE2p/s1600/IMG_6338.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">WATCH OUT for the side of the welt pocket that begins on the 'side back' piece.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">According to the pattern the pocket starts at the notch, which is where you cut away the seam allowance to place the welt lips. DON'T cut all the way from the notch, give yourself an extra cm after the notch before you start cutting. Otherwise there is no seam allowance for the side of the welt lips, so you'll see the raw edge.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">You want to cut a 'Y' shape (clip into the corners) before turning the lips through, and then sew the little 'V' to the lips. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">This sounds very confusing, so just trust me and do a toile and practise the pockets so you can see what you're working with.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I ignored the pattern's pocket lining and made my own so they'd be big enough. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I cut a 2" strip of garment fabric and top stitched onto the upper edge of the pocket underlay, so that you saw the fabric poking through the welts and not the pocket lining.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The pattern has you cut a whole pocket piece in the garment fabric for the back of the pocket and that adds unnecessary bulk and is also not as strong as what a pocket lining should be.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I used gorgeous liberty of london fabric for the pocket lining as a nice little surprise for my hands.</span><br />
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<img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiuoSg__qgnOkyh36VfrRG2tWZhT72LXp-fKhRJ3WDFb8VJHoxMn_T4dupVldE_TAWGUj2Ap3IcD0l-vAwceipd-P2Kn3_ccJmyIeE51cJuYwqX_G1c9AkyM2YhCVOElrDFgn2n6lOW6pL/s1600/IMG_6341.jpg" title="" width="312" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCXihdMDJockumUwz36q9A0-4juq4LExpypIrzHKsirtTAPnVYSMEnPGR2jYonNnZUwU3lf-zBNzvbF2C_qOJiwas09QakiBHeDadEdBCP7RJVvx-Ds6MK9KwYdyjQJJxNjyDXtYvgrKK9/s1600/4C131BC2-4141-46CE-B047-C0FCE230F7A7.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPO7Tvkk8UYJla_0edKxsnm30Mrbz8NM3wdftRoK24CsXv3WKmjO1ntaeBrcMFoPhUC7z4BLqv7AqH_rhlXInh6etROy1p7stQDep98g-J0VxaDHxYLj8z1Kspy7wpjKjxgvsHPWM33gyY/s1600/BFF9F06B-E084-4A8A-BB88-699B8BC1F8DD.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7yg7KlgoLuR0wjj5Pq5g9x-3XQOYwmf49GaS0UTxtrT0D6THIYxAPqbw9gKQVrBGHOGbYv4PiUEZZE7WZqFU5bv1ahDQfgwXHkv5hMXtOfhiuDv7rBzbcs_fTBzUZcFNgZUb6Erg6IAc7/s1600/454C33B1-A409-4BD9-8756-A81757EB7762.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: inherit; font-weight: 700;">THE LAPELS</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Using the facing pieces as a guide, I cut out hair canvas. I made them 1 inch wider than the facing pieces, scooping above the bust point and out to the side seam, a few inches below underarm.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzmzWDVJiwqmTcJSgrhY5eVLwn0IoKWpXNGOzNKBdGGaoarr6QDtpVQ68EvS_Em6rr8bc-Ve3x6wxuss_UL96nuIvzI0per2QGTAiR9WTrWIOyvQVox4sDsaZmk2_6My-44bd0AnQV-x5D/s1600/IMG_6445.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu7OkX6y_0QwJbJmcCLH-fUkQ7LMnHZvpjNgjkbz101NsOtWRjirP2aCjkrwcTyn5Qtze0mOqmzIvqY04tLyXWXAK2ZJhvDMCjP4719P4jbrWzcmXlh1vpRmrbf8hG1xd-GIAl2HruIIU7/s1600/IMG_6446.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I cut out extra canvas to reinforce the shoulder, upper chest where it naturally wants to cave in. This I secured to the canvas with rows of machine basting stitches, spaced about 2cm apart from each other.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I then cut out the dart in the canvas and used iron on interfacing to close it. Once closed I secured the edges with a zig zag stitch.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Next I marked the roll line and pat stitching lines for the lapel, which all run parallel to the roll line.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The line next to the roll line and in the corners of the lapel were spaced 3mm apart, and 6mm for the rest of the lines. (narrow on and next to the roll line and in the corner of the lapel).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeBTfZJ8bTMD2K_Fw3-1ptY9hg1VHUgZMihLubzUdH0Ybv5HJnGKI7QicJIEWIFgkBXO19zypm9WW4FK37sWr81jd10tSUdUFj5OppJQfDxAXrCSKcYIXZD7OcoCL6P55DOMpryOzRztHt/s1600/IMG_6449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeBTfZJ8bTMD2K_Fw3-1ptY9hg1VHUgZMihLubzUdH0Ybv5HJnGKI7QicJIEWIFgkBXO19zypm9WW4FK37sWr81jd10tSUdUFj5OppJQfDxAXrCSKcYIXZD7OcoCL6P55DOMpryOzRztHt/s1600/IMG_6449.jpg" title="" width="312" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The canvas was then basted to the garment with long tailors tacks in silk thread. I positioned the garment right side up when basting to make sure it was smooth and there were no puckers. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I then removed the canvas seam allowance of the shoulder and side seams and catch stitched them to the garment. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The seam allowance of the arm hole is kept on to give the underarm area, a high stress area, extra support.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ_TsMYz0zTl5TW6iR-CRu414uxGm4k790_pBfbkZ7HMTGXovQ1_Qpq6wYXaKYVxjdSbZ99e0x1WnVPSjqwATP3SCNVwqoo_5x2BbB4_8ewopYp8oaG04FoBasp19zhnismTyIy9BNQmXf/s1600/1808F8B2-4445-4B04-BCB8-7E22CC7AFADC.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilyRJsEb8vDBSNNtqFfg5zsFGlTvKd9q3ftEQFKAb_qkxh1QLMfi4dVSAtFN8sDMCVfExfKum-Gn0RdkdoXRC4m-xeAd7T-KPmimVY2boEX3zWKHyVYXCPIdzyECTaD3-IwbHzg0vtnnZ7/s1600/A3F13CCB-4052-4327-A72C-0A2380D9908C.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpUgOFIRaKyoQb5eyXmhnTHRJFujJgyWDknYci1_W_A2t6fHNLfCvMCtnAfgFxBwzSthukAVQMuqFgPfby8QfW-itNM3LZhbG7rp7O8dvHsQEF_NuqONQ2JWNlP2GnHuoL8WzdlOiNquig/s1600/C5F574A5-6444-42B3-911B-F2F1C5591366.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Next I hand fell stitched cotton twill tape just shy of the roll line. I cut the tape 1cm shorter and eased it over the length of the roll line. This helps curve the lapel slightly, to accommodate the natural curved shape of the chest.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><b>Pad stitching time!</b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<div style="caret-color: rgb(58, 58, 58); color: #3a3a3a; letter-spacing: 0.8903999924659729px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Pad stitching is the art of sewing together the two layers of fabric, the garment and the canvas interfacing, to act as one. </span></div>
<div style="caret-color: rgb(58, 58, 58); color: #3a3a3a; letter-spacing: 0.8903999924659729px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">It is done using small hand stitches that run along and parallel to the roll lines of the collar and lapel. When done correctly these stitches are almost invisible on the right side of the garment.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
<div style="caret-color: rgb(58, 58, 58); color: #3a3a3a; letter-spacing: 0.8903999924659729px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">When stitching, the fabric and canvas is rolled over the index finger to encourage a curve in the fabric. Smaller stitches are made at lapel corners and at the roll line to set the roll line and to make corners of lapels and collars turn slightly to the body, rather than sticking out.</span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I pad stitched the canvas to the garment, with shorter narrower stitches on and next to the roll line, and at the lapel corners. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #333333;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Generally, if your lines are 3mm apart, then the stitches on those lines are 3mm long. If it's 6mm apart the stitches will be 6mm long etc.</span></span><br />
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<img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg69KYSEucBn6de1tXGWXtL6q2VQ1Lq7XGkQAQW0-OC8nK0naLU-O9bdfd9FlNxnDsr_BO2Vii8VFtrRKFGjsPEV5vznuan7mQ_ojlBY76OVD-V0RrlsruF65nlmOibkuSTsCCMncEE_dOQ/s1600/IMG_6496.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6d9EKL8ze9GZ3NaDyFMOAiRUVJ1v8MmUDo4GjyyW74AJQVBcUxBQmQvlmsa3bkGMHz4TJyu86G-TB6SoU-cfouwzSANY2BJ9wlPLoIzHK_qEnLSX2Nayc7fwMaokscCB67A4RNzHoNmre/s1600/IMG_6502.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I then removed the seam allowance of the canvas only (not the garment fabric) from the collar notch down to the hem.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Once the seam allowance of the canvas was removed I hand stitched the tape along the seam allowance of the lapel, starting from the collar notch down to the hem with permanent uneven basting stitches. These stitches are not visible from the right side, and are made uneven to prevent a pattern showing on the garment front. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMFX2ia65Wn7z9OvvTC89AbUsB3d871rpGcvIbH-525qbHU3LPE4HCHVMyAjuzG_NMppiKsq84P4PVsJFy3372uS5wD0SSrATmV-ndOpuI3OSkZrTvfWuT-lL-kGo0U9PancbTLzqIcy-q/s1600/IMG_6506.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqOza2V9aSmOlV7KTeQFXlesfpApwnFwnEPX62nXIjle-y_YcIitR-NfE56sqC-7ngxmPkk5X76iHTWQ8KkJUJ_YDO7Tr8QQtJIJh3tIxtxW4XSUFgMXUTxAy9Tbjkno_LfRWz5UMlRB7g/s1600/IMG_6504.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL9O05KsDdHM03YZsHjmFBUWPHzMZWRMIhbfcP0kmci7T8O2MhqyuEZKY4TPxIUDFdogc9KykDmRFBB_nC-r5uvuWC2VCEt2aLrK0UhLV1mtYRs0WZTXlJMH4_vCjZlfD53yTisN7Cpc01/s1600/IMG_7283.PNG" title="" width="312" /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><b>Setting the Roll line</b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Once all the pad stitching was complete, it was time to set the roll line in place.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I placed a damp folded towel (about 1cm thick) between the jacket front and the lapel along the roll line. I then steamed it thoroughly without letting the iron actually touch the lapel and left to dry over night.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIxpzl27KW0QiBejugipXG17Rq2_KcpSFCPiH1BIycaHKRZCmupPtOk7TDt_geD0mAXIRpPEQWe_6vmHVEQZJUHgGUTTs74qYZSDzuq4dLdonk63WT5pByOEmY3I9BJ0BN0L_romSUO5u7/s1600/IMG_6513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIxpzl27KW0QiBejugipXG17Rq2_KcpSFCPiH1BIycaHKRZCmupPtOk7TDt_geD0mAXIRpPEQWe_6vmHVEQZJUHgGUTTs74qYZSDzuq4dLdonk63WT5pByOEmY3I9BJ0BN0L_romSUO5u7/s1600/IMG_6513.jpg" title="" width="312" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Once it had dried the pad stitches were set and there was no way that lapel was going to fold anywhere but the roll line. Success!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><b>Adding the Facings to the Lapel</b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Now it was time to attach the facings to the lapel and see all the magic come together!</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I cut the lapels 1cm wider than the pattern along the roll front edge all the way down to the them.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">This creates a graded seam to help minimise bulk and the extra width gets folded over the twill tape and catch stitched down.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The longer seam allowance meant a flatter edge, and makes stitching the seam allowance down easier. Stitching the lapel seam allowance down, keeps the joined seam edge rolled slightly under and flat to the body.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The corner of the lapel is also cut on the diagonal to remove bulk.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkf0x90JeiacelLVXHw89XiIJkhk9A0zHAC1KiHIp7w39PXzXyXdZlFU-TsUemBquYB1iEkWj8doGhnFOtRj8Spm0aL8Ms9RzK7M5ZPUFTGZ1S3agn9mUULbkAOLnpurE3yE5ujAfelPn0/s1600/IMG_6559.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgettYuWj0grSjAwoTB1YldU1QqQZ2pki6tT8rI6aWqi1nx1uKaosEXOK3FDCd6VS9N26sAckqfUbheUP3-BdsrYogfRgxWAYuW8T6h_Pb1Tq849MXmpFDadh-LJPtJCx86zoxZngbXXxIi/s1600/IMG_6561.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCDvsPqlGMGm_M80MIrctkwA7MAqukULDOrA1V8uBqEoNMR20jl6RPGtDpIKZb4OJmn9BUtt8BJMNUUL-w4RT6U2li8T81CnV894stCpmFj9Zw6IAePCusdv5VzlVtTrfKSIuWf2bInBpi/s1600/IMG_6563.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
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Once the seam allowance has been folded over and stitched down, the lapel facing gets turned to the right side and that's where all your hard work starts to pay off. Look at that lapel!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv6npaUhstqa1votO0xI68cNSMn21F6ObcnsxpzBZuwcO4omfPcJEW_ZVgncDn-SH8N7-aZwOC9DgrDTrmAC9_RYLJNTTIkC1Jiag-HN6HRN3jqcB57TteXhM9meVZ4tNxqMUuboGrGsuQ/s1600/IMG_6569.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv6npaUhstqa1votO0xI68cNSMn21F6ObcnsxpzBZuwcO4omfPcJEW_ZVgncDn-SH8N7-aZwOC9DgrDTrmAC9_RYLJNTTIkC1Jiag-HN6HRN3jqcB57TteXhM9meVZ4tNxqMUuboGrGsuQ/s1600/IMG_6569.jpg" title="" width="312" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: inherit; font-weight: 700;">THE BACK and SHOULDERS</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I drafted a back stay to stabilise the shoulders and give extra support in the areas such as the shoulder blades which is another high stress area.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I cut the back stay on the fold in silk organza and pinked the bottom edge. It was then hand basted to the garment back at the shoulders and underarms and catch stitched to the side seams.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIJ3X4QnTlAI2xoEzgfxWL-PPK5XzXPRHf2_1YFuKXSr5cBMIemlNWEvn3F3hc6wct_mygOq3uHT9bUZV8BBbYtxiOydVCADA5FAYxh0QTAF24vfR_WhY62z1D-5EIr628F3hHbrtoX_Ru/s1600/IMG_6607.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ60kJ886bf96_Zhe9hByC_YSo4kG5iewyI9IqPpE-pfAY05sl5wIKntDizGQGGD1CfINQWiidERd9zm9Pwid_3rPuF8uXCuaNdo2u2M0cOSxhXQXZBs0JyrflOD-7jly9gbxIJvmepxcR/s1600/IMG_6609.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Front and backs were then pinned together at the shoulders.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">A 1cm wide cotton twill tape was pinned along the front bodice shoulder, centred over the seam line. I cut the tape half a cm shorter than the seam line and eased it over the entire seam.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Once attached I then used the clapper to flatten and set the seams.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The cotton tape along the shoulders reinforces a seamline that gets a lot of wear and pull, and stops it from losing its shape.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQPPoWOR7umuHIhCiDIkz-A5nHvdKPiWVY82lbY3yQWyUXo0W2B3_P8ZNnmJD6ZGBAID-LWjr8tTBPRc2r7Zv3oQ5bBnNRv3YFh5Nw9lxfrE9Lu9kr7LQIohNZs76KaAxsLDNxEqj_uUBe/s1600/IMG_6614.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: inherit; font-weight: 700;">THE COLLAR</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The UNDER COLLAR I cut as two seperate pieces instead of one on the fold. I also cut it on the bias to help it shape along the curve of the neck.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I used wool felt for the under collar instead of the garment fabric, which allegedly is one of the marks of a true bespoke jacket.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggFOI1L_HIgBP-fI9NoGmBB9jqML3d2wUU_uR0mp0pkOCuoDh_1Rp5aBN8ZarkJQ1uJO2EsvBM44IgeYfsqsToC-qEHq2_spw6YAeFsKpLY4oDXF7wuzrKf3HaIbiTYOsWAJKPSDkCMQCj/s1600/IMG_6304.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8WdjJS6KeWo8t4bsGRsiHgfWcMNpbOtCNQEuPyBwv1C-ecxDpueQAs4Bv4d-FfDAJKGU2Fjm57Jsu7rqm3Ln70HZzWLFvpZynNNNIX8T2nLAtmQapA39zR1m8cJiVcswnQmZtbchja1Ni/s1600/IMG_6397.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB8e18hfcxM7jJBOKUGuCJ39zksutnwrwgiLVWx1rUKccCfSDzAwjo_R43zH3IWzBllVMx16DEhK7uBfevR9c7IJOrdrSDHbKtzyoh_oItlT4ZH-3TjqRxdrQv8FX86myI3YWNeA6JM95O/s1600/IMG_6413.jpg" title="" width="312" /><br />
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<div style="text-align: left;">
The seam allowance at the centre back was lapped to make it as flat as possible, and the canvas hand basted to the wool felt within the seam allowance.</div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I created a roll line as the pattern piece didn't have it marked on it. This I just sort of 'winged'.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I marked where the roll line ended on the lapel and tried to match that up on the under collar. I then curved it up to the middle of the centre back neck seam, where the collar folds over.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">First I invisibly basted the canvas and the felt along the roll line.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I then pad stitched the under collar following the curve of the roll line, with narrow stitches and lines on and below the roll line (and in corners of collar) and wider lines and stitches above roll line. </span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1K3WluB5wlt2dQmgVSH9u97UlK6SH3pXeiTcOD2c4DGzhEfzEj2mXNmkVmFuPL_Zr6DmoGspsi0MHXpDILxSEXUD-2G8dKS9SdbOZfc7HAFuEaALS3jm5jbSPJ7BoNrY0LojeygsrxrS/s1600/IMG_6419.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_BJG6C2pHFdeeogxnwCl5PM9prMIYOgK81C1mQdoFlaZg3FIsNjwqyHg6D2d9F0ugGRpPidLQOk-_xf4ZXcTE8geqBsLZPtJiApysJPsK3W8Sl424frPWyF-EvPTTHlP7jjCJO-USeiu/s1600/IMG_6424.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTR0S2UgR2E3JJkv6jVXSBB0KARRzlGhMxj-tJS7TqvBmiDatnwOOHnui8CLGGBHjdyO-roFvczOamXLCBzg9G_8f5DguzPwiRE71nauOzCupNACfNWu3NPD8oEVKl-qZgLMJsANyOq8-7/s1600/IMG_6425.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I removed the seam allowances of the under collar, and cut the canvas just slightly shorter so that it wouldn't poke out and be visible. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I then pinned it to a sewing ham and gave it a really good steam, without letting the iron touch the actual fabric or canvas. The steam helps set the roll line, but you don't want a sharp crease.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I then left it overnight to dry.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuRjhFoCKB1mxOD1gA8jvSxrt-9Kijmxa1sADZC0KmtppLt7X1Pl2HE98_5rzOqjkrn1srMDk5_kE9HfpbwWeNtHku35dmH5o7q1y1uMnf4WQCY2_CAooCfvLbzlzIVaTRn6k_1wpcYpX8/s1600/IMG_6433.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWfzNx2KBWocrE3dZ_06VPAhtWAad7UGkYDfvAACZaOenTqGwhP9jC4YspTuXY2laUPh1avRTeQpTDXCnFL7aqWeEUxlBsXgQ0vIcAz-BdWYquNJNcEmVoFdvurxOBSCelfztYYTYBZsx4/s1600/IMG_7282.PNG" title="" width="312" /></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Once the under collar had dried I pinned it along the seam-line of the neck, lapping the neck seam allowance. I hand basted it into place, lining up the roll line on the collar with the roll line on the lapels and when I was happy that everthing was in the right place, I fell stitched it along theneck by hand.</span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyohF9cAt59_2VdV9K8mbhTmMOQWZgxLE7OzZ1kJOGnOt7yN2WjHbU5YctW-ENq8QCL8VFNuAuohUKIqkHmmLgNR30XoVHoLuKea7hvYUSkPZ-CfhNE6WZbM4s48RIv_SzbaSTmNpcav_Q/s1600/IMG_6630.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRKYERdoGsQVjd_RkhyBMO2k0a4mk-dlp0HQ3yI_1VyuqqvJN7oQX4Pp2MkAxOa9SGajUg0RiwMH1r1MmwZJnFOBftMbJrtGJ98HV0wc6t-xZHlTJt_yKxXOtiOTACdLdjCHjROm0P1P4/s1600/IMG_6635.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizn97GadmEXQLyZupStYFBfCaL1MuI7QXtkto3K4p_315W4vANVT3jEcmsZZEaipjhxf_nm16eQYixeS9nLf6zdlGTFTCpJ6fowfQ6O4GvFf9fVo0_QQmlACNlWk_-kMtSv0nnJY5UXrEU/s1600/IMG_6639.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: inherit; font-weight: 700;">UPPER COLLAR</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I pressed under the top and bottom seam allowances of the upper collar piece, and then basted it by hand to the under collar. I started along the collar edge (the top edge) beginning in the middle and hanging over the under collar ever so slightly so that the seam line is not visible when the collar is turned down.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Once positioned correctly I attached to the under collar using small fell stitches.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjTGiUOH_Ro8OSyxHzRchvSC2Js9r2BB_pw8P_xwUEfSpiDnTl9KjYqeBj09KtjtlThoJvDEolWKD6LQajdOluKyDNOAGJIIpS2IvGE8mAJNrgYEGY_n8ua7B-5KkEMlgdameSzOuvDBIJ/s1600/IMG_6699.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiieNyu8tyUOn4gJydKjLuQ8_NZZGXGpDSn_q3SkNrNUpzFkDF6xCeBl1Chcfh0KTuAfqhgh7ZCEUMuwhYf4T3g8_pjdUqDyfQ8uNJyZ8rRRs3_8vAYcn3DI-A8A2jkQkTwspMl6YfUv16f/s1600/IMG_6705.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWFKwEvczMwzC664AuMvLwb1YIdgp-yYB9nHW66OB_BcL2we2YBWJ3Nhycg3LDVapGlBsOdA7GTaQBV24wnPqIGRxWSXKnLSZ6X8aUiLAwy_B2r7lw6yaHtzgPT6pn9b1bpl1_WnU1CCpe/s1600/IMG_6708.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Next I basted the neck edge of the upper collar to the neck and gorge line (where collar meets lapel) and then used a slip stitch to attach.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Finally the seam allowance at the sides of the upper collar are folded over to the under collar and hand stitched down with a fell stitch.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">This is allegedly a sign of a true bespoke tailored jacket, where there is no seam at the side collar, but a neat clean fold and the edge visible underneath.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivY3GDo0gli2nn2UaUW7lR24pAyVpGeQxZO_CPSMAWr2ArhROqIBCyJoSquqA0g8Q5XlKVEw5iXb2cahEOkPz-GkJOZ1Kb8su_Jf3TxPVWFoifkNFgTleDshhLI-7lu96TfvoFox_M-Clh/s1600/IMG_6714.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4N0ANBjxrHezGeeYtPgvSfdFe8RO5AbwG25lC7EndzLV7IpZNB92Qb074WJkxG7emM5SQOXrYr5LiEEZhTl8WWhkxdSsY9S7LxZqQglDcHWbrxByS5z0TUeLUUcNQHOLTVoQrI5tXalnY/s1600/IMG_6736.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Next I pressed the seam allowance under for the NECK FACING and slip stitched it to the seam line. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Sewing the collar and facings by hand means that the facings and collar are anchored to the neckline right where they need to be, and results in a cleaner attachment to such a bulky area that can easily get twisted or bunched when completing this area on the machine.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhugWyh8G9ZRywbHIV_JWLmRMQbmPuF-P1FeeFYDGUY37pbz9j4aQvAP5BDBtvDiV_okVJj9JPPHYuEKiZYGMQYvykbBvlfhX4Zz618s4jGQhX1s008tP6Rg6eVPooIyhQ5XnOeQcFRH0su/s1600/IMG_6709.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">This is by FAR the neatest collar I have ever made. The control you have by doing it by hand is LEVELS above what I have been able to previously achieve on the sewing machine.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Yes it adds a bit more time, though not as much as you think.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><b>Machine Vs Handstitching LAPELS</b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I always find the pattern instructions for lapels/collars/facings super confusing and inevitably mess something up.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Pieces end up fighting each other and fabric gets slightly pulled or puckered and doesn't sit quite right. I know I've often sat in front of my machine with the garment inside out thinking 'well I sure hope this works!'</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Doing it by hand is much more intuitive because you can see where things need to go, and you can place them precisely. There is no estimating or hoping it works out when everything is inside out and half attached.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">You can also control the slight roll of the upper collar so that seam lines along collar edge aren't visible. Even for future jackets where I don't do the full tailored methods, I think I will still sew the collar on by hand because it's relatively quick and the difference is so noticeable!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: inherit; font-weight: 700;">SLEEVES</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I used hair canvas for the sleeve hems, which I hand stitched on with silk thread. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The sleeve pattern comes with vents, which I extended to make them 11.5cm from the hem to the top of the vent.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I then did a mitred hem for that extra touch and to minimise bulk.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipDuSUHrd00xYM5uyS3ayFiR-KIFt_m0dtgulCVYV4FZmFhomMsE423YcfNXgQ9lmfMScHfZ33jaKaVd7BhdIpC-OCrJU5IXYmEFGoSaao2zlRvT-cVv0_afPLtKY8b8h5EcoLlTD0rH7K/s1600/IMG_7278.PNG" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi4JzAWsxCucQZdg9NaATSIpfTRn8mvQ-or5TFgwoIZlwY4hWMY862ffENpmS5FNEweIbpJBwjiP2edF09887OUJElRiKQ75WOaAJ6zuTVMr42VUoSdw2bzhpKQuJrZSPvtL8d0XX8AQwK/s1600/A510E204-D683-4325-8F77-F44A7249C78B.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSFD9EuCHXUwhcZ4VHQAGcTz3xHK0I-wNeKzrefjCujIWlMGGP-N6QXOWWKiNaAaN30l8tkJeyl34FgRL2d-e_eZ6VIjzrAdhHQC7TbyEJzKbqp5Ju7QfaWtKaARjnGJvvAZnE66hlySfA/s1600/704FD3EE-3B16-4227-BAC8-DDB83717043C.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPo95RY1N8QId9N8wUV9n2YgJpJT-2Hh3IprDc07B0CgH6eXr_EwS1zZ7Z6cEZ6WZwHYO_NAGmfnlr95rrYhij6Cdcukw4CD5eN7bAAcv536jX1opy2tJBe3kArSeaCk-0oXlIuSoIomt2/s1600/8FF1415B-7497-4AE4-A641-261321A0A69D.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9QgJDRWUB1Viz0uMwIYmMVnu2d5Dbu6AwsqTSR2F-tBsxadBRIm2ZXZydHV4lFXr168ADtkvMARL62_neK-JJCpbk1k4Gu_a1emRmir5eJsNEdM-lOWRhCyZoV0vkYOY7h8gG10aon1pY/s1600/IMG_7275.PNG" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi24Se48n-SK0UIzm_8gyAoTc95XNW6b5fFB1yzO5uCWiFZbouJ96xAAVP5-v7TVY_w498saGZ8ocyfhcwKKZWhG-8dd5wpkQgwil_876OoJWe4dRc81gmOLm0Kn9Z3lF1rsu-L1q3d0cWF/s1600/IMG_7277.PNG" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRmGBeyFt05mycH_zO6-9kKUspy7HnLH-4J3ea55aMIHFyIfmkE_95Dx7l7KnfExp27txKYUOYbkZFtNUkDNsBH36SL_6AQ7-ihm70B3rOHa4YEiWQiFrQJC9PKpp-Cv99hzBerW-MQ7rI/s1600/0E0E54BB-D778-4E9C-A072-648C65DE7887.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I hand basted two rows of thread along the sleeve head for gathering. I alternated the stitch placement to ensure they would gather as evenly as possible.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-MUEbnSHSPw0aZ8x1OWMArPQPzpTzrBBwd2qu45y2LbiWmjii2-s61AFbujCIXyYD4BHyRA_-uMShTE30_GTZDOhXvcPQ1ARf72NuEuDa6ruqbdXVrbzHitpgrbMTG4EgUVaunIcjKyqa/s1600/0FFF7DD9-9FFD-47A3-B664-7B25D37F3176.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I placed the sleeve cap on my sewing ham and steamed it to shrink the fabric and even out the gathers. I then pinned it to the armhole using lots of pins to make sure it was evenly positioned.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ9bEbDGD_IwtC7b3N3vpz2jhBmyUaMM5gTpzNvbfkw_MmO2H0rAMHqOcDe9RLPhdoWVXGKH5PHcB-G8-5NbYp4fcJRadWfOYzXYDnry6HkKj2cE7bdKpV1HRncsqIMZuUk6cE_tZtSehM/s1600/IMG_6641.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpPzwMELmaDM0x5ISO7uL2ZCZZ3AvVD9wfeR7tBr47CIee8Sqjeequ9jV4mcQQvKtvVUlrvTWXg-tnJu8IN6sje0rMiGwmsxZns0e2eghFKCG1fVpKSoOJhCsQj_OEUfFjOayO0psYitH_/s1600/IMG_6644.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I hand basted along the seam-line, and when I was sure there was no puckering i stitched down the seam on the machine.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I stitched a second row of stitches at the underarm ONLY, about 3mm parallel to the original and then trimmed close to the stitches.</span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<b>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">SLEEVE HEADS</span></b><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I cut 2 pieces of quilters wadding/batting (mine was organic cotton) at 5 x 23cm and then folded one long end down 1.5cm. I lined up the folded edge with the sleeve cap seam-line and slip stitched the fold to the seam line. The sleeve head buffers the gathered fabric from the cap and gives a smooth rounded shape to the sleeve cap.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I then hand stitched in shoulder pads.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJt8xMLyDz5jm6pnPutqaHSLyXzWsaaasAuboh722EdiDPPlJ_NJzR_9zbY6HLTgbBUxCaxVO-vzPP9G_Po4Avy7HiyZhKokfb5TWRPW5i5dr91GIw-PRFSqH2tYEoBOm134kGCzC8Jn3o/s1600/IMG_6649.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><br />
<img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0X1sf8On7edJJbJAdFNTsckk3SvgGAonzB5FV97gqiyZ9W7Wm1vK-O1aWr96wWzvhhPUXDlb7nX4F0U_vCbzW7mEwG5CkCVFm2lzDqfpfwfwvO-rLVlSWvc6Vw8kPIg4VynP5bI0D29NB/s1600/IMG_6650.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJfHvDPpYK0jC6kUdfYOnIPmOr-OtkbQmmGzfLqWwrFlIXOstAD57DA_l6cXsVSzpMld8-CUqve_-UXTOnvpxAAinYsTw-d5ZmjBfOvVVbz82jrUmfTQv_IrKngiRNQjTHOQdYG09xW895/s1600/IMG_6657.jpg" title="" width="312" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13tIgeCSIb1IpG9R0varhRLWcNfHdxpCsHOyclREiKGdhR1lilJaJ62n9hwD3GOyrQCmtBdlNhX4lqXf6NF0HdHBXorr-coYJwasUAb0Vpz4ei_JvGfSj1Dy5H68D206HvdxfPprEj-lf/s1600/IMG_6661.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: 14px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13tIgeCSIb1IpG9R0varhRLWcNfHdxpCsHOyclREiKGdhR1lilJaJ62n9hwD3GOyrQCmtBdlNhX4lqXf6NF0HdHBXorr-coYJwasUAb0Vpz4ei_JvGfSj1Dy5H68D206HvdxfPprEj-lf/s1600/IMG_6661.jpg" title="" width="312" /></a><br />
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I am so excited by the difference a sleeve head makes! It gives that beautiful, soft and rounded head that makes a sleeve look so much more polished and 'professional'. I'll never do another suit jacket without it!</div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: inherit; font-weight: 700;">HEM</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I ended up making my hem 3cm, because that's where it naturally seemed to lie with the facings but normally I would do (and recommend) a 4cm hem.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I cut out a strip of canvas 3.5cm wider than the hem (3cm hem + 3 = 6.5cm) and positioned it just below the hem fold line (around 1cm). Having the canvas extend into the hem softens the edge a little and gives support.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigtrlTeA6fWkrPUTAioBrtRMB1Sxug1hXKc2vhrNPX-cXtnxpCF2YrMVmL4QiGQlztCSOu9cc8YfCM0lHqP9LR0eNZtAdECk9sngr52fKkP8fIG_HHXCeWnNzKPMRo3ihwLZU8cU6EMxbK/s1600/IMG_6685.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgynDBtdr-4cxeXDtJk7oBbs79fTEFeNtR3_tyOIRnq8H-hBGMcAYFtztJDjaccXJj_HyCXAAAdRneWiEeZVTF-U3hh93JT_B4HYef1zni2EBFnQEjz3dwnW12BGDeXKo4Po6qNfbhyphenhyphentuUs/s1600/IMG_6688.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I then blind stitched the upper edge of the canvas, and permanently and invisibly basted the bottom of the canvas along the hem line crease.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I then folded up the hem along the pressed edge and permanently basted it to the canvas with uneven stitches so as to not detect a pattern on the right side.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSK3tLjblhHJsCLTBt5-jEaqYwGRPJhIfTclonrpPX-B-5dSVOM3ncKBQSy1K9JUfaiw94xCvomzpAZ_TZSAz1oTlluuHYoM4aAtZH3enra1DZueUUWaCLleSNMGQ-XXOLjtDCj0Pi9KMB/s1600/IMG_6686.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgODizznT5HD3bH41LdT3JI98eN3bD2mHRUUbSQIM5KDRXvHiCUkBoxq4s1BoqqPcz7Rfd7RolIGStF0pbkuRBkAjF3u6OXN2qf4Fut5o5KITrwe6Jdt9ryGjXe3E2QvURwH4sedBxf2a-X/s1600/IMG_6694.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I catch stitched the edge of the canvas to the facing canvas, and then fell stitched the facing hem to the jacket hem.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">FINALLY I hand stitched the edge of the facings to the garment in preparation for attaching the lining.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvAE6AKcNnwu_eC8cwGuE7sY4qCgto1BqN2sackVUi5NZog0-waJs5VBBzvAo5mXoimipWS_LbbXh4Ro_fr2moATZHjsWcrLaK3RVCJ3Ze4Z-G8cB6H-tqxLqDebzn0H-KJt6jBr3KPiAK/s1600/IMG_6754.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmYLOLQVftw0zuhWkWOV1n46d0vXup8fHE2mEqunHzG3AewPYGeJ-Vam8YC7kt5Rp7XXjrDPAsYqK4lz4d7eQ98BtU_jRLeTtQ9wBM8DHO2Rz4LdUS5Zfa-wzQeDM3WgqT4LPXgndzkUC-/s1600/IMG_6757.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span></div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: inherit; font-weight: 700;">LINING</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I added an extra 1.5cm at the side seams of the lining body, grading it down to nothing about 10cm down from the arm hole. I also added 1.5cm at the underarm sections of the sleeve lining pieces, grading it down to nothing at the notch. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">This adds a little wearing ease, and provides extra room for the sleeve heads and shoulder pads which take up volume.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL3j0ugsNhwSrjVSsGhdXq6ie22GpqvhGhE2W6UI5y0afkoYDEFRVAtumurhhgzwq_tkHRZz_K-pSOCIF5fkeOu6ugluWmrhcra-PCuU3Hkk2l5YwkFbpCT2ej3MPEWpEqrRBQpQ5M4yCX/s1600/IMG_6794.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><br />
<img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_p852CIds4Xanduh8yYLkRgEJ3ZyvE6c6zpoRpMl1VhqI0JlevRzLo3U-1gmy0zKHkLw5V7AdG6sBOKZMdOlNra5Bl2IeOk3ZkyR-qrYUd-ThMgZxK1NJyZpsevxjVe_eW2xnc09lvfmv/s1600/IMG_6793.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtr3M1gjsGasmmQYoqO1SsT4b-SstdWj2C958t-8L58tH-36m3bzmFnHc8CDKIKmKFmvLkZZVEhCyTgHmefRt93sHHeDUwP1L41MmysvRc_cIZQJOhyphenhyphen2X4MH8M5otXXHtTIhXmOu1f4oLN/s1600/IMG_6792.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I stitched all the vertical sections and darts in the jacket left front and jacket right front linings and hand stitched them individually to the jacket shell.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I used slip stitches around the facing edge and then secured them along the side seam of the garment, the shoulders and the armhole with permanent basting stitches.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBn_G4jNMJ91P4UvdkiW1APmcCDtBwV_SdxWvmwCZ7Qxv-OPeZ7mtnAxT-UoNgNlNWsZLOMZLabZzjss4DIYly5zhY6VSpqNskEdKYuvOAV4v6nWKg3X9V1d5vA2MZ8xbLWCV-5c0k17uq/s1600/IMG_6800.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span><br />
<img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsHwjsOOZiah8OztyWNGqKoSyOoXeK5g7qjSqWaKpQAwX42KKM17UoaqdasvDCF2QtLxxZ-1IoD4bHfpSutoxBEQgFz8TpAfVXVzYTC6jh4H5X2J18W7iUCsaaqf9Aj3SbuZQueJQqVkov/s1600/IMG_6821.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmdfMy3ljl99x2ySiL_oDcmEDvmT8UXct8t9imZZhdpsBUIA9wKGcrcsnLMRkpwOK3Tmpj8tznCbUbGec0Q9rD3NkTpMIuXPmL21acB3BHfdn4sbOml0WMh5XfWWW4WCPEV2YkcbY_COHD/s1600/IMG_6825.jpg" title="" width="312" /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I then sewed the vertical sections and darts/pleats in the lining back, basting the pleats and darts down so that they didn't distort when attaching them to the garment.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I then lapped the seams at the shoulders, and slip stitched the side seams of the lining back to the lining fronts.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I added the sleeve lining at the armholes using a double thread fell stitch, which anchors the lining to the sleeve heads. Finally I stitched the lining of the sleeve hem to the hem vents.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4i5yBgTmqAfruKh4KIpkAbNrhFGjUSBPOF5kAAbXlvQvPbUw37Lcwh7GvwKzKGc__jI0YkYMeHSkOvU-QLWKkCLkmw3cn5T9AD0ORg2EwiiFlQrMgfo_w2DnK7wb8eteGs9Mj9WxWfRht/s1600/IMG_6829.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The pattern gets you to cut out the sleeve lining without vents and sew both seams down to the hem line, meaning that the sleeve vents are purely decorative and not functional. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I sewed and attached the lining like you would for a back vent so that I had the option of making the vents functional.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">In the past, the only hand sewing I've done for linings is attaching the hem to the garment.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I really loved how the lining was in harmony with the garment when sewn in by hand.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">There is no pulling or twisting of the garment due to a misshapen lining, and the lining moves as one with the jacket, rather than billowing out loose from the shell of the garment.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The lining is anchored at the arm holes, shoulders, side seams and facings, and you're able to assess the drape of each piece as you attach them, rather than at the end when it's usually too late.</span><br />
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: inherit; font-size: large; font-weight: 700;">OTHER CHANGES</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I made a bound buttonhole for the button closure on the centre front.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">I changed the jacket to one button instead of two, and slightly lowered the top buttonhole.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv9l2Wy-WPpeu3U8Zwx376ha3cH503gqKFqtqCRgFvFpjvd_FhGk4ionGW6uC-gz2xR4sxg9LV9n4sKuGR6COWhfxv3qrgJnFLt-puE7fVrk0PwGw6p9JiSxr1SiItd2SWZLzaRmiskF-a/s1600/E4B89CA1-BA30-41FC-8FBD-44812F4F67D7.jpg" title="" width="312" /><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi90WFyU_vm4WoxT-NKDmykSkVG6YtKjHjOiLhxEy78tUPbANGqiSUctMH-0lO53WCi-0y3MNn4ZghqoBouqhZpbxzZk6Sn6PogZ-ZdTp36PghbZKZ7GS0hi7gLANTmwsf6tNcE0DLqWBT1/s1600/0EB917F8-1E6E-4C95-817E-A05F7E5EE10C.jpg" title="" width="312" /></span></div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: inherit; font-size: large; font-weight: 700;">FINAL THOUGHTS</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">My goodness, this was a lot of fun and I'm so glad I finally pushed myself to try tailoring!</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333;" /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">This jacket took a lot longer to make then previous jackets that weren't made without these techniques; most of this jacket was sewn by hand!</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">But I can tell you that I absolutely enjoyed the engineering and the discipline of making a bespoke jacket, and though it's my first and there are some things that need improving, I'm an absolute evangelist for tailoring now!</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">Yes it took longer, but the joy that it gives me and the difference in the outcome makes it absolutely worth it!</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">For all the <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/11/my-first-tailored-blazer-burda-6875.html">FINISHED PHOTOS of the blazer, you can check out my blog post here!</a></span><br />
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<a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/11/my-first-tailored-blazer-burda-6875.html"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Tailored Jacket Construction - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLoB_reMaavwKfit55y2DEDU7J3ct2jNPiRgE90UpPAYNwyYgnplJmpA3K1H-Ikk8MB4x2OXDjhzQY3Iu9jiRnEaqlsQuGYN9E-9Z5dmKnbeY2ZC1KsuG928TjjtIR3qbaKay906okfP3s/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+34+of+53.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-43015792286116335522019-11-13T16:44:00.000+11:002019-11-13T16:44:49.579+11:00My First TAILORED Blazer - Burda 6875<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGIvoyAlfCtGIS3ZZrdYhru_kDFJCJvtp9p8-kd0fBhUeU3IMzNgRjACiU_cGJQyhQ68H6BtDyRKtFDzfyjoVBU9EaRD03N0ZwxMSk3z3W4tyQ9_S8hctaZdFbMOrP95Co02jF810B3sdy/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+32+of+53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - First Tailored Blazer - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGIvoyAlfCtGIS3ZZrdYhru_kDFJCJvtp9p8-kd0fBhUeU3IMzNgRjACiU_cGJQyhQ68H6BtDyRKtFDzfyjoVBU9EaRD03N0ZwxMSk3z3W4tyQ9_S8hctaZdFbMOrP95Co02jF810B3sdy/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+32+of+53.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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I am so excited to share with you, my FIRST ever, TAILORED BLAZER!!!! ALL THE EMOTIONS!<br />
<br />
For many years I've fantasised about making a tailored blazer.<br />
A blazer that included canvas interfacing, pad stitching, roll-lines and is mainly sewn by hand.<br />
<br />
I've always been fascinated by the engineering of such garments and intimidated by their apparent complexity but I decided I was ready to take the plunge and challenge myself to make a proper, bespoke blazer; and HERE IT IS!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgitm6Wy5nhRAX_IvELgoQ1lppTuio7i6B4bm89jWyAgIzNNElCuZOqoDnd81eoSDgYzwhnNBvvu8kNyz0_eQQkAOxza0Zlv-lE4OT71eRTsrumymp72C_9AhlHzPnAf-L_ZJB1LFsLytBv/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+46+of+53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - First Tailored Blazer - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgitm6Wy5nhRAX_IvELgoQ1lppTuio7i6B4bm89jWyAgIzNNElCuZOqoDnd81eoSDgYzwhnNBvvu8kNyz0_eQQkAOxza0Zlv-lE4OT71eRTsrumymp72C_9AhlHzPnAf-L_ZJB1LFsLytBv/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+46+of+53.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">THIS BLAZER includes:</span><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>Canvas (soft hair cloth) interfacing</li>
<li>Pad stitched lapels and under collar</li>
<li>Bound button holes</li>
<li>Surgeon sleeves (vented sleeves) with mitred corners</li>
<li>Sleeve heads and shoulder pads</li>
<li>Silk organza back stay</li>
<li>Double welted pockets</li>
<li>Twill tape along roll line and facing edges</li>
<li>Liberty of London pocket lining</li>
<li>Silk lining, each piece sewn in by hand</li>
<li>Blind stitched and canvased hems</li>
<li>Wool felt under collar</li>
<li>Upper and under collar sewn to neck and gorge line by hand</li>
<li>Vintage buttons</li>
<li>All hand sewing completed with silk thread</li>
</ol>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>The Fabric</b></span><br />
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The most beautiful Italian double wool crepe from <a href="https://www.moodfabrics.com/">Mood Fabrics</a>.<br />
The weight and drape of this fabric work so well with this pattern, and the thick texture hides hand stitching well.<br />
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It is lined with a 19mm silk satin from <a href="https://www.homecrafttextiles.com.au/">Home Craft Textiles</a>, which makes wearing the jacket feel luxurious and super comfortable.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaB28Puvry0a3OByRAr3AP42cLiPVm1q6BgHQT15ull30SAHoLDN0FDhCft9hDy3l1-4U-itmdyi1O45nstlzJADKq2rc70-5G_mfXEeHGOTEoUILvOg7fG4vj9TQ3TCzTNOBoBq7zKiYf/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+22+of+53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - First Tailored Blazer - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaB28Puvry0a3OByRAr3AP42cLiPVm1q6BgHQT15ull30SAHoLDN0FDhCft9hDy3l1-4U-itmdyi1O45nstlzJADKq2rc70-5G_mfXEeHGOTEoUILvOg7fG4vj9TQ3TCzTNOBoBq7zKiYf/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+22+of+53.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>The Pattern</b></span><br />
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For the JACKET I used Burda 6875 in View A<br />
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THE SKIRT is self-drafted with a faux button placket, fully lined and a blind stitched hem. The waistband of the skirt is interfaced with silk organza (attached by hand) and closed with an invisible zipper down the centre back.<br />
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The CAMI is another <a href="https://just-patterns.com/shop/kate-bias-top">Kate Bias Top by Just Patterns</a> in a silk satin from Home Craft Textiles. I used silk organza as interfacing, instead of stay tape and I under-stitched the lining with a pick stitch by hand.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwp-qNt632KY_seTmStVHDAo9_3XKtQvPU87l7qSueLM5FbYumyLjqW4pEgS2VIyTFFL3LzXWA7ZwXRTpGtlZgMWO4rjc5C6yBhO7wjheawmt73_LMl9YvE4qJNNqifEqvUiefOTjyVb8v/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+29+of+53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - First Tailored Blazer - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwp-qNt632KY_seTmStVHDAo9_3XKtQvPU87l7qSueLM5FbYumyLjqW4pEgS2VIyTFFL3LzXWA7ZwXRTpGtlZgMWO4rjc5C6yBhO7wjheawmt73_LMl9YvE4qJNNqifEqvUiefOTjyVb8v/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+29+of+53.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2WZrmcxaaErTibDCFMBoDjhz1o5aWPykwCze0wRy7fs2X8V6jvLKyUdXvdkKJJ1aP_IofbQxNq2LPg79eCH-QR9x5HJzgocx0tiqnUWqdai-75J0MTkoTsPpkv7xPA87R2EtCGd9LXoD4/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+31+of+53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - First Tailored Blazer - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2WZrmcxaaErTibDCFMBoDjhz1o5aWPykwCze0wRy7fs2X8V6jvLKyUdXvdkKJJ1aP_IofbQxNq2LPg79eCH-QR9x5HJzgocx0tiqnUWqdai-75J0MTkoTsPpkv7xPA87R2EtCGd9LXoD4/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+31+of+53.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Changes</span></b><br />
<br />
The construction of this jacket was very different to the original pattern, considering it was tailored and mostly hand sewn, but as for changes to the actual pattern, I did the following:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Lowered the top button and removed the second to make it a one button closure</li>
<li>Made a bound button hole instead of a machine button hole</li>
<li>Lengthened the sleeve vents to 11.5cm</li>
<li>Removed the centre back vent for a European style</li>
<li>Made a 2cm sway back adjustment</li>
<li>increased the width of the hip at the side seams and back princess seams by 4cm total.</li>
<li>Added 3cm to the width of the lining armhole to accommodate the shoulder pad and sleeve heads.</li>
<li>Vented the sleeve lining hems so surgeon sleeves could be functional</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUuBKOPBv41om0yJLLt3lb3XK-0Ff-MvrW03AqcIKMj3G1RkedwkGs0N7TSqE6fuBRBhoZ-N5sWpO-LJhNsAl5TJ7VemqoejOslUF5GSR_xwr0TCYgRmJpu6LMjDg1E8ghyISTvSMlJ8N2/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+38+of+53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - First Tailored Blazer - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUuBKOPBv41om0yJLLt3lb3XK-0Ff-MvrW03AqcIKMj3G1RkedwkGs0N7TSqE6fuBRBhoZ-N5sWpO-LJhNsAl5TJ7VemqoejOslUF5GSR_xwr0TCYgRmJpu6LMjDg1E8ghyISTvSMlJ8N2/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+38+of+53.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfp-wQ4YylmK9RpKyKmApdKeAYDL04Z5rD2s4RGD4uqXgYRr8EzVfOq74jl3WlhND-iAKG_xLBD_8oTmlZxr78xPVlj3kGtFrTnMb6pizettu0VOB5M9vo9ZDpoWN1YjR4ZPxIh7ohgSDK/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+49+of+53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - First Tailored Blazer - Burda 6875" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfp-wQ4YylmK9RpKyKmApdKeAYDL04Z5rD2s4RGD4uqXgYRr8EzVfOq74jl3WlhND-iAKG_xLBD_8oTmlZxr78xPVlj3kGtFrTnMb6pizettu0VOB5M9vo9ZDpoWN1YjR4ZPxIh7ohgSDK/s1600/Pink+Tailored+Suit+-+49+of+53.jpg" title="" width="624" /></a></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Pad Stitching</span></b></div>
<div>
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<div>
Pad stitching is the art of sewing together the two layers of fabric, the garment and the canvas interfacing, to act as one. </div>
<div>
It is done using small hand stitches that run along and parallel to the roll lines of the collar and lapel. When done correctly these stitches are almost invisible on the right side of the garment.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
When stitching, the fabric and canvas is rolled over the index finger to encourage a curve in the fabric. Smaller stitches are made at lapel corners and at the roll line to set the roll line and to make corners of lapels and collars turn slightly to the body, rather than sticking out.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
This is my first time pad-stitching and the results are so effective that it has completely won me over. No more stick-out corners, or twisted lapels. The lapel and collar curve to the body and refuse to fold anywhere but along the roll lines.<br />
<br />
The under collar is made of wool felt and cut with out seam allowances. The under and upper collars are sewn by hand and attached to the garment with a fell stitch. This gives such wonderful control, and is apparently the mark of a true bespoke jacket.</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Tailoring</span></b></div>
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I spent countless hours sleuthing the internet for any bits of information I could find on pad stitching and tailoring. If it's on the web, I've likely seen it by now. I also purchased the book <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Tailoring-Classic-Sewing-Perfect-Jacket/dp/1589236092/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=dp_ob_neva_mobile">'Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket"</a> which is an excellent resource and very picture heavy.<br />
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Below are a few progress pics of jacket, which I documented in my <a href="https://www.instagram.com/juliabobbin/?hl=en">Instagram stories</a>.<br />
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You can see the whole process and a lot more photos on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/juliabobbin/?hl=en">my instagram highlights</a> saved under 'Tailored Jacket'.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
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This jacket took countless hours and a lot of patience. I took my time to do a toile before I started sewing, and to practise making the welt pockets and bound buttonholes.<br />
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I originally set myself the challenge of making a tailored jacket to further my learning and to see just how much of an impact the engineering had on the final product. What I didn't expect is just how much I would enjoy and fall in love with it! Since posting this I have made and completed my SECOND tailored blazer (coming soon) and I already have plans for my next.<br />
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This was a project of love and I am so thrilled to learn these news skills. They have absolutely heightened my enjoyment of the final garment and makes me excited to learn more!<br />
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<br />Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-7510166116848636092019-10-01T20:45:00.003+10:002019-10-25T12:17:24.001+11:00Silk Cami - Kate Bias Top by Just Patterns<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48820459116/in/dateposted-public/" title="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48820459116_cf3e2d33f1_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48820459506/in/dateposted-public/" title="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48820459506_78c3cb82a3_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48820617272/in/dateposted-public/" title="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48820617272_3221bb43b7_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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There has come a point in my life where I have realised that my dress sense is akin to that of a magpie. If it's bright and shiny, I want it on my body.<br />
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I'm ok with this.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern</span></b><br />
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Introducing my latest bright and shiny, the <a href="https://just-patterns.com/shop/kate-bias-top">Kate Bias Top by Just Patterns</a><br />
This is so beautifully cut and for some crazy reason, the pattern is only $3AUD. So actually, what are you waiting for.<br />
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This is my second time making this pattern and it's as good as I remember.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48820100908/in/dateposted-public/" title="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48820100908_b8a06e1cc3_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Fabric</span></b><br />
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Luscious silk satin in a beautiful purple hue and 19mm weight, which I purchased from <a href="https://www.homecrafttextiles.com.au/">Home Craft Textiles.</a><br />
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I will never get over the feel and look of silk satin cut on the bias. It's just everything that is beautiful and wonderful about fabric and it soaks up colour like nothing else.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48820616082/in/dateposted-public/" title="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48820616082_c911ac4d8a_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48820459691/in/dateposted-public/" title="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48820459691_693ae4c466_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Details</span></b><br />
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This bias top is free of darts, is cut on the bias and fully lined.<br />
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It is held at the shoulders with bias cut spaghetti straps and hemmed with a narrow hem.<br />
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It has a lovely soft V shaped neckline and is figure flattering but not form fitting.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Wearing with</span></b><br />
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And hey! My whole outfit is me-made! That's happening more and more these days and I find that so encouraging and exciting!<br />
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I've paired my silk cami with this self drafted sequinned skirt:<br />
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<div style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;">
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BtPtQ3bH0sj/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2019-01-30T04:33:06+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Jan 29, 2019 at 8:33pm PST</time></div>
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And my silk organza trench coat that I made using Simplicity 8554<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BqygEPlnI0H/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="12" style="background: #fff; border-radius: 3px; border: 0; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0 , 0 , 0 , 0.5) , 0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0 , 0 , 0 , 0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: 99.375%;">
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BqygEPlnI0H/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="background: #FFFFFF; line-height: 0; padding: 0 0; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; width: 100%;" target="_blank"><svg height="50px" version="1.1" viewbox="0 0 60 60" width="50px" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g fill-rule="evenodd" fill="none" stroke-width="1" stroke="none"><g fill="#000000" transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></a></div>
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<div style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;">
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BqygEPlnI0H/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2018-11-30T03:17:01+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Nov 29, 2018 at 7:17pm PST</time></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
<br />
A quick easy make, that looks and feels fancy and chic. This is my third silk cami and it will not be my last!<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48820458636/in/dateposted-public/" title="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48820458636_b4835d431d_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48820099593/in/dateposted-public/" title="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48820099593_727c141c4a_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48820617492/in/dateposted-public/" title="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Kate Bias Top - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48820617492_9517441d46_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-48437163688442507172019-09-24T11:17:00.000+10:002019-09-24T11:17:02.057+10:00Pattern Hack DRESS - Adrienne meets Rita!<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753429143/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753429143_3969e820aa_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753753996/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753753996_43b5cdde60_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
I had a hack attack ...<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern(S)</span></b><br />
<br />
It'll surprise no one to learn that I love the <a href="https://charmpatterns.bygertie.com/shop/rita-blouse/">Rita Blouse by Charm Patterns</a>, seeing as I've made it THREE times, and then hacked it into a dress TWICE.<br />
<br />
But then I saw the <a href="https://www.fridaypatterncompany.com/patterns/adrienne-blouse-pdf">Adrienne blouse by Friday Pattern Company</a> and the hamsters started running circles in my head again!<br />
<br />
Meet the Rita Blouse MEETS Adrienne Blouse MEETS dress hack!<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753752971/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753752971_162039fdef_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753428423/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753428423_649c9369aa_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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The BODICE is <a href="https://charmpatterns.bygertie.com/shop/rita-blouse/">The Rita Blouse</a>, the SLEEVES are the from <a href="https://www.fridaypatterncompany.com/patterns/adrienne-blouse-pdf">The Adrienne Blouse</a> and the SKIRT is a self drafted skirt with a flounce at the hem.</div>
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<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753428678/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753428678_a3dc49002b_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753428843/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753428843_de529916d2_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Fabric</span></b></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
This beautiful floral silk from <a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/collections/new-additions">Tessuti Fabrics</a> was enough to tempt me away from my solid colours.</div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
It's a beautiful fabric that I purchased and made this skirt with back in 2014 (yep).</div>
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<div style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;">
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/s3sBnQj_Xr/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2014-09-13T03:11:17+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Sep 12, 2014 at 8:11pm PDT</time></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I liked the fabric so much I panic purchased another two metres and I finally decided to stop staring at it and actually use it.<br />
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The bodice and skirt is underlined with a light (and white) linen for extra body, and the sleeves and flounce are just the single layer of silk.</div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753429038/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753429038_71ba6d15b3_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753943697/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753943697_d89e456aaa_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>My previous Rita Blouses and Dress Mashups</b></span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BsOla0inKjY/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2019-01-04T21:33:56+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Jan 4, 2019 at 1:33pm PST</time></div>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BxZknc4gK8L/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2019-05-13T10:35:32+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">May 13, 2019 at 3:35am PDT</time></div>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BrJxVpvnd7j/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2018-12-09T04:10:29+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Dec 8, 2018 at 8:10pm PST</time></div>
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</blockquote>
<script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Details</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The Rita blouse has an ELASTICISED neckline and sleeve cuffs, so it was easy to substitute the Adrienne sleeve pattern, which also has elasticised sleeves and neck edging.</div>
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The BODICE is gathered under the bust, and then shaped with princess seams below the bust to the hem.</div>
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The Dress is closed with an INVISIBLE ZIPPER on the side seam. </div>
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I took the zipper all the way up to the arm pit to try and maximise the opening for when putting on the dress. The underbust seam always has to be man-handled to get it past my bust when putting the dress on.</div>
<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753943927/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753943927_5f18859f51_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753429628/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753429628_0e8113a01a_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753754551/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753754551_ccb89b137b_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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It's not often I wear a print, so when I do I go HARD.</div>
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This was a quick and straight forward make, and I'm glad I finally put this stunning fabric to good use; just in time for a Melbourne Spring,</div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753429918/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753429918_97440b2968_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753944107/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753944107_269a7631c8_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753944637/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753944637_5f81a40180_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48753944712/in/dateposted-public/" title="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup"><img alt="Adrienne/Rita/Dress Mashup" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753944712_fc878b559d_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-72144428580432502002019-09-15T20:43:00.002+10:002019-10-24T22:53:00.866+11:00DIY Red Bombshell Dress<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48735068068/in/dateposted-public/" title="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48735068068_52004f794f_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48735068948/in/dateposted-public/" title="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48735068948_76eb3fb015_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48735397696/in/dateposted-public/" title="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48735397696_354559ab26_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
I did one of those things I've been wanting to do for a long time.<br />
<br />
I bought a dress (online! On sale! cheap! polyester!) and tried my hand at copying it and making my own version.<br />
I loved the drape of the neckline, and the classic silhouette. It is such a sassy dress, and I upped the drama by making it in red. As you do.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Fabric</span></b><br />
<br />
I purchased a lolly-red, cotton sateen from <a href="https://gjsdiscountfabrics.com.au/">GJ's Discount Fabrics</a>.<br />
The original purchased dress (black) had the look and subtle stretch of a cotton sateen and I wanted to mimic the fabric as close as possible to achieve the same fit.<br />
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</div>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48735397486/in/dateposted-public/" title="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48735397486_bc1e23c225_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48742618616/in/dateposted-public/" style="text-align: start;" title="IMG_4693"><img alt="IMG_4693" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48742618616_febb056a23_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Details</span></b><br />
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The bodice is fully faced (lined) with the same fabric. The bodice front is actually one big mirrored piece that folds over itself at the neckline.<br />
<br />
I cut the bodice on the bias, and added spaghetti straps at the shoulders.<br />
The bodice is shaped with two big pleats on either side of the bust which creates the cowl shape.<br />
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The skirt finishes just below the knee with a thigh high split.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Xi7eWhmDK_IFFN92VkQckp7-elo0J1toXd1Ov5fm2z1fjvB3HXy7pZ1TuUF8u0YCojY4R5CbzVSAiP5UxpM1NjoeTtLQcIU3M-N53vK3Eoohm0RZa-ThM_LgK6qX9tt-tGUU2d8d16KD/s1600/http---static.theiconic.com.au-p-chancery-1110-517478-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1250" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Xi7eWhmDK_IFFN92VkQckp7-elo0J1toXd1Ov5fm2z1fjvB3HXy7pZ1TuUF8u0YCojY4R5CbzVSAiP5UxpM1NjoeTtLQcIU3M-N53vK3Eoohm0RZa-ThM_LgK6qX9tt-tGUU2d8d16KD/s640/http---static.theiconic.com.au-p-chancery-1110-517478-5.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The original dress by Chancery in blue. Image from www.theiconic.com.au</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48735068213/in/dateposted-public/" title="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48735068213_f0a46c318a_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48735397846/in/dateposted-public/" title="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48735397846_e7165e9843_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48735397041/in/dateposted-public/" title="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48735397041_7095578421_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
<br />
I love how this turned out, and I'm shocked how straight forward it was!<br />
Makes me look differently at some of my old favourites in my closet that are on their last legs. You could trace them or pull them apart to make pattern pieces and reincarnate something you love.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48735068513/in/dateposted-public/" title="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48735068513_3746df5004_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48735398126/in/dateposted-public/" title="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Salsa Dress - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48735398126_c3b9e60ee8_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48742289658/in/dateposted-public/" style="text-align: start;" title="IMG_4665"><img alt="IMG_4665" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48742289658_c2b082c6eb_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
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Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-58253539998302794022019-07-31T09:46:00.002+10:002019-07-31T09:46:28.960+10:00Misty Cami by 'Sew Altered Style' - The HACK-A-THON Blog Tour<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48402634691/in/dateposted-public/" title="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48402634691_27427a005b_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48411851191/in/dateposted-public/" style="text-align: start;" title="IMG_4401"><img alt="IMG_4401" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48411851191_a8785c051f_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
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NEW indie pattern company ALERT!<br />
<br />
The talented <a href="https://www.instagram.com/macsmakespace/">Mac</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/creating.katie/">Katie</a> are the creatives behind the new pattern company '<a href="https://shopsewalteredstyle.com/collections/frontpage/products/misty-top-dress">Sew Altered Style</a>' and they are kicking off their first pattern release with a 'Hack-A-Thon' blogger tour!<br />
The concept is to take their new pattern, make a change (hack) big or small and have a bit of fun!<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48402778062/in/dateposted-public/" title="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48402778062_a097028fb0_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern</span></b><br />
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It's the <a href="https://shopsewalteredstyle.com/collections/frontpage/products/misty-top-dress">Misty Cami </a>and the first pattern released by <a href="https://shopsewalteredstyle.com/collections/frontpage/products/misty-top-dress">Sew Altered Style</a>.<br />
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This cami comes with four different views, which is made up of two different strap versions, two different back heights and the option of camisole or dress length.<br />
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The pattern ranges from sizes 0-30 and in addition, you also select between two cup size options, A/B or C/D. If you fall outside those sizes don't worry, the pattern comes with instructions on how to do a 'full bust adjustment'.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48402778732/in/dateposted-public/" title="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48402778732_6beb695bde_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48402635566/in/dateposted-public/" title="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48402635566_3ff7922675_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Sizing and View</span></b><br />
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I MADE View A (low back camisole) in a size 10 with the A/B cup(!) option.<br />
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For reference, my bra size varies from anywhere between D-EE depending on the brand and, like, how much cheese I've eaten.<br />
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The instructions get you to measure the width of your breasts at the widest point, and then the width of the upper breast. The variation in length determines what cup size you need, and I'm not sure why but the difference between the two measurements for me was small.<br />
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With the size 10 cut on the bias, the smaller bust option fit well, and I love a loose drape in a camisole. The bust darts sit a little low (which doesn't bother me), but this was a tester pattern and it has since been corrected on the official pattern.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48402780542/in/dateposted-public/" title="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48402780542_8d0a2c44ed_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48402635866/in/dateposted-public/" title="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48402635866_6980d5ebde_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48411999447/in/dateposted-public/" style="text-align: start;" title="IMG_4349 (1)"><img alt="IMG_4349 (1)" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48411999447_f3876194be_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Fabric</span></b><br />
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I used a stunning, saturated, chocolate silk satin that almost literally looks like melted chocolate.<br />
This beautiful fabric was purchased from the wonderful people of <a href="https://www.instagram.com/theclothshopivanhoe/?hl=en">The Cloth Shop in Ivanhoe</a><br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48412007477/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_4434 (1)"><img alt="IMG_4434 (1)" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48412007477_72263bd1c1_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48411996182/in/dateposted-public/" style="text-align: start;" title="IMG_4421"><img alt="IMG_4421" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48411996182_085f9e73a1_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Details + Changes</span></b><br />
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This flattering, loose fitting pattern calls for light weight, drapey woven fabrics with the direction of the grain line following the selvage of the fabric. Because I was making my cami out of silk, I decided to go a little extra and CUT ALL MY PIECES ON THE BIAS.<br />
The neckline and the straps sit so well when cut on this angle, and I love how it makes the silk drape.<br />
<br />
Instead of the regular hem and to accomodate the bias cut of the silk, I decided to finish the cami with a NARROW HEM.<br />
<br />
I eliminated the FRONT CENTRE SEAM. The pattern gives you the option of a centre seam in the front, or to cut the front piece on the fold.<br />
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I also chose not to interface the facing pieces. When it comes to camisoles made of silk, I like both pieces of fabric to behave and drape the same, and I find the under-stitching on the neckline is enough to give structure and shape in a bias cut.<br />
<br />
In addition to cutting my pieces on the bias, my PATTERN HACK was to change the shoulder straps to thin, BIAS CUT TIE STRAPS.<br />
Not only does it look great, but it means you can adjust the length of your straps as you wear it, rather than in the construction stages of the garment.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48402637896/in/dateposted-public/" title="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48402637896_3fee1b960a_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48402636021/in/dateposted-public/" title="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48402636021_8dd6e93168_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48402780137/in/dateposted-public/" title="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48402780137_17b88e6dce_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
<br />
It's incredibly satisfying to make something beautiful and clean and to be able to finish it in one sitting.<br />
A camisole is such a classic wardrobe staple that can be paired with almost anything and for any occasion.<br />
<br />
I love the fit and cut of this beautiful pattern, (which is 20% off with code MISTY20 until August 4) and I'm very excited to see what else <a href="https://shopsewalteredstyle.com/collections/frontpage/products/misty-top-dress">Sew Altered Style</a> has for us in the future!<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48402778347/in/dateposted-public/" title="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48402778347_2aee06e2ab_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48402782017/in/dateposted-public/" title="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48402782017_9341f259f7_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48402782287/in/dateposted-public/" title="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48402782287_2005abd3bb_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48402635396/in/dateposted-public/" title="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Misty Cami - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48402635396_a83e13504c_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
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<!-- LightWidget WIDGET --><script src="https://cdn.lightwidget.com/widgets/lightwidget.js"></script><iframe allowtransparency="true" class="lightwidget-widget" scrolling="no" src="https://cdn.lightwidget.com/widgets/2f555a37dc0b541aacb6ed2a0834e8d3.html" style="border: 0; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></iframe>Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-3823197173482849632019-07-13T15:42:00.000+10:002019-07-13T15:42:57.866+10:00DIY Copy Cat - BALMAIN Sequinned JACKET and Faux Wrap SKIRT<div style="text-align: center;">
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I don't know when, I don't know how, but somehow I've become obsessed with making jackets. And what could bring home that realisation more, than a SEQUINNED jacket. I ask you.</div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Introducing my latest make, a Balmain inspired, Versace buttoned sequinned blazer dress:</div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264468656/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264468656_cee8555445_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264536487/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264536487_a335c113de_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264542552/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264542552_feb0e7d329_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern</span></b><br />
<br />
<b>JACKET:</b><br />
<br />
To make this look I used Burda 6380, View B in a size 12.<br />
<br />
This double-breasted vest pattern comes in two length variations, with the option to add a welt pocket and contrasting lapel.<br />
<br />
This pattern doesn't come with sleeves, so I used the sleeve pattern from Burda 6845, <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/06/pink-winter-coat-burda-6845.html">which I recently used to make my long suit style winter coat.</a><br />
<br />
The sleeve pattern pieces paired perfectly and had matching notches and markings.<br />
<br />
<b>SKIRT:</b><br />
<br />
Self drafted, with a waistband, faux button closure and pocket flaps.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264539382/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264539382_876659a23f_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264461726/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264461726_6986a33ce2_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264467896/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264467896_89f59315f9_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264540452/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264540452_2431e8f7dd_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Fabric</span></b><br />
<br />
<b>JACKET:</b><br />
<br />
I found a beautiful sequinned fabric from an Etsy store called <a href="https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/551638435/sequin-fabric-by-the-yard-telas-por?ref=yr_purchases">Lots of Fabrics</a> . This is the second time I have purchased from this store and the quality is excellent.<br />
The fabric has a slight stretch to it and the sequins are all sewn on, rather than glued.<br />
<br />
I using a black sateen on the lapel for a contrast, and lined the jacket in a black poly satin.<br />
<br />
<b>SKIRT:</b><br />
<br />
A beautiful, soft Japanese cotton sateen from <a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/">Tessuti Fabrics</a>.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264535897/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264535897_314c29d265_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264535312/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264535312_f871eab937_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264468411/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264468411_e9d32d602c_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264466426/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264466426_1d27725ce0_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Copy Cat Challenge</span></b><br />
<br />
Together with the talented superstar <a href="https://www.instagram.com/faithstjules/?hl=en">Faith</a> and wedding dress extraordinaire <a href="https://www.instagram.com/kellydslater/?hl=en">Kelly</a> , we decided to do a celebrity copy cat look.<br />
<br />
For this inspiration we decided to choose one of our favourite Olivia Palermo looks. Olivia has a great personal style, so choosing one was hard!<br />
<br />
I decided on her Balmain jacket and skirt that she wore in January 2019 to the Balmain Haute Couture show in Paris during Haute Couture Fashion Week.<br />
<br />
You can see the full look in my instagram post below:<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bz1oQVkAkj4/" data-instgrm-version="12" style="background: #fff; border-radius: 3px; border: 0; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0 , 0 , 0 , 0.5) , 0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0 , 0 , 0 , 0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: 99.375%;">
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</a><br />
<div style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;">
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bz1oQVkAkj4/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2019-07-13T01:08:51+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Jul 12, 2019 at 6:08pm PDT</time></div>
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</blockquote>
<script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Details + Changes</span></b><br />
<br />
<b>THE JACKET:</b><br />
<br />
I love THIN LAPELS on this pattern, which I made in a cotton sateen to contrast, as I thought the doubled up sequin lapel could end up looking lumpy, and would likely get lost.<br />
<br />
I also eliminated the WELT for the same reasons.<br />
<br />
I added SLEEVES from Burda 6845 and fitted the sleeve heads with SHOULDER PADS<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264537507/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264537507_283b3c349c_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264467226/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264467226_cdb8ce50d6_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
To avoid drag lines around my hips and butt, I added a SEPARATING ZIPPER to close the jacket.<br />
<br />
I was nervous about adding buttonholes on a sequinned fabric (could get messy real quick) but more importantly, the zipper balanced the stress of a fitted skirt evenly over my curvy lower body, where buttons would have gaped and caused drag lines.<br />
<br />
The black zipper blends with the sequins, and it makes wearing the blazer as a dress more comfortable. The buttons were then sewn on top, with a SNAP BUTTON added just underneath the top closing button to hold in place.<br />
<br />
I also REMOVED THE BACK WALKING VENT as I planned to wear this as a blazer dress.<br />
<br />
<b>THE SKIRT:</b><br />
<br />
I made a MOCK WRAP at the front to mimic the original Balmain skirt, which I held in place with vintage versace buttons.<br />
The skirt is closed with an INVISIBLE ZIPPER down the centre back seam.<br />
<br />
I added POCKET FLAPS on the skirt front and lined them with a contrasting silk fabric.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264465981/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264465981_55ddecd088_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264463711/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264463711_f0a4df5460_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264465761/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264465761_a4eb7ce0af_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Notions + Tools</span></b><br />
<br />
<b>NOTIONS:</b><br />
<br />
6 x 22mm Versace Medusa Head Buttons in matte gold and matte silver from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/au/shop/VintageButtonsNBeads?ref=yr_purchases">Vintage Buttons N Beads</a><br />
1 x Separating zipper<br />
1 x Invisible zipper (skirt)<br />
1 x Snap button<br />
1 pair of shoulder pads<br />
<br />
<b>TOOLS:</b><br />
<br />
Janome DC2101<br />
Walking Foot/Even Feed Foot<br />
Stretch Needle<br />
Clapper<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264537072/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264537072_e42e151fa6_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264463396/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264463396_4da4efe1b6_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264537752/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264537752_ca8c197d6e_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
<br />
Well that was fun!<br />
I'm a sucker for all things shiny and fancy, and this outfit ticked all those boxes!<br />
The original Balmain jacket retailed for $4500USD and the skirt for $785USD. Just another reminder of how wonderful it is to be able to sew your own clothes!<br />
<br />
I'm also pleased to report that I have already worn this outfit out and it was an instant mood booster. I love how a good outfit can do that!<br />
<br />
Thanks to Faith and Kelly for a fun challenge!<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264540077/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264540077_92ff5aa04a_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264541792/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264541792_f70802110c_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264466066/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264466066_04ffd0853f_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48264460171/in/dateposted-public/" title="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look"><img alt="DIY Olivia Palermo/Balmain Look" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48264460171_b1f2942c7c_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-1469548008110930302019-06-20T11:54:00.000+10:002019-06-20T11:54:51.361+10:00Pink Winter Coat - Burda 6845<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091667247/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091667247_ac13bd8f5f_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091665072/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091665072_f6175a484e_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091663357/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091663357_e66c6ca4ae_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091668352/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091668352_02707b25f8_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<br />
There's something about making coats, isn't there?<br />
<br />
They are such a labour of love, get so much use, and make you feel like you've really made something clever!<br />
<br />
Introducing my latest make, my 2019 winter coat.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091576006/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091576006_f65f3bdc28_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091571701/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091571701_9cf8c89e75_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091665337/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091665337_4c84944fbc_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern</span></b><br />
<br />
I used <a href="https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/brands/burda-style/burda-style-pattern-6845-jackets-coats-vests/">Burda 6845</a> in View A which is a slim-lined coat with a flap pockets, a lapel and a rear walking slit.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Fabric</span></b><br />
<br />
The outside of my coat is a beautiful fabric from <a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/">Tessuti Fabrics</a> made up of 50% wool and 50% mohair, with a weight of 570gsm. It is so soft and such a lovely pink and has such incredible warmth; a must for a winter coat!<br />
<br />
I lined the coat with a silk dupion that I've had in my stash since the beginning of time. I love how it features different blocks of colour which compliment nicely with the coat fabric.<br />
<br />
And did I carefully match up those squares of colour? Why yes, yes I did. Thanks for asking.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091664932/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091664932_9674ff3348_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091666962/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091666962_ecb22f9411_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091665937/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091665937_832fd2e603_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Notions</span></b><br />
<br />
Buttons from Spotlight<br />
Whisper-weft interfacing<br />
Guterman thread no. 473<br />
Uncovered shoulder pads doubled up.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Details</span></b><br />
<br />
I love how the LINING HAS A PLEAT at the centre back waist as well as at the base of the neck. It allows for extra movement when you're wearing your coat so that the lining doesn't rip or pull.<br />
<br />
THE DRAFTING of BurdaStyle patterns is always so beautiful. Where they might lack in pattern instructions, they make up for in pattern details.<br />
The princess seams flatter and shape the body, and the two piece sleeves naturally curve at the elbow and shape the arm.<br />
<br />
I love the FLAP POCKETS which sit just at the right height, which I lined with liberty of london fabric for a little extra something.<br />
<br />
I'm in love with the LENGTH OF THIS COAT. I had been day-dreaming for a while about a long coat, and this one hits the ankle at just the right point on my 5'4" frame.<br />
<br />
I added thick, uncovered SHOULDER PADS to the coat and I love the balance and proportion it gives the finished look. Because of the structure and length of this coat, it absolutely needed a strong shoulder to balance the look.<br />
<br />
The centre back of the coat features a WALKING VENT which is practical and polished.<br />
<br />
The width and shaping of the COLLAR AND LAPELS is just right; not too bulky and with lovely sharp angles. I also added liberty fabric to the collar band for a little secret contrast.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091668172/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091668172_f7b0f2d62a_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091573421/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091573421_043ed6cb03_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091570731/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091570731_db3c3b22e0_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091572826/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091572826_868226832d_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091574581/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091574581_e3d5e5afe0_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Buttonholes</span></b><br />
<br />
One of the nicest techniques to do add to a jacket is bound buttonholes. It's what elevates a look from off the shelf to couture, and it's something you hardly see on a jacket anymore.<br />
<br />
A bound buttonhole is the process of adding two 'lips' to make a place for your button to go through, rather than a slit wrapped tightly in thread. It definitely takes more time and requires a fair bit of concentration, but the end result is lovely and incredibly satisfying! It's such a lovely way to treat yourself and your coat!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2012/12/tutorial-bound-button-holes-and-facings.html">You can click here to follow my tutorial on how to make and face a bound buttonhole.</a><br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091608313/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091608313_8062eefe68_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091665527/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091665527_674acdb035_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Changes</span></b><br />
<br />
Before I even looked at patterns, I knew I wanted to make a midi length, oversized suit style coat that could be both formal, or dressed down with jeans and a tee.<br />
<br />
This pattern comes with three centrefront front buttonholes as closures. I wanted to mimic more of a suit jacket, where the buttons started lower down. So I REMOVED THE TOP BUTTONHOLE, and slightly modified the angle of the lapel so that it sloped towards the new top buttonhole (originally the middle buttonhole).<br />
<br />
I also removed the PLACKET ON THE SLEEVES as I felt the coat had enough detail already. The coating fabric is quite thick, and I didn't want to add extra bulk at the cuffs, or run the risk of it looking messy.<br />
<br />
I interfaced the hems of the bodice and sleeves for extra structure and support.<br />
<br />
I lined the pockets and pocket flaps with liberty fabric for a little extra detail, and hand tacked the pocket bags to the coat so that they wouldn't fold or move around.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091608648/in/dateposted-public/" style="text-align: center;" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091608648_e9fc1c0229_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091668067/in/dateposted-public/" style="text-align: center;" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091668067_1938be3549_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091610093/in/dateposted-public/" style="text-align: center;" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091610093_b2e6ee72b5_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091665232/in/dateposted-public/" style="text-align: center;" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091665232_32f1ac1477_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
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<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Look Out For</span></b><br />
<br />
I found step 30, which instructs you to attach the lining to the back vent quite confusing. In the end I pinned it in place and hand stitched it so I had more control and to ensure the lining didn't pull and distort the drape of the vent.<br />
<br />
I also hand stitched the vent hems along the centre back to keep them in place before attaching the lining.<br />
<br />
The instructions for adding the welt pocket and flap is also a little confusing.<br />
I highly recommend you cut out one muslin pocket and practise on that before trying it in your proper fabric.<br />
The pockets are time consuming and the success relies on precision and patience, so it is worth taking that extra time to establish the techniques if you haven't done one of these pockets before.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Tips For Bulky Seams</span></b><br />
<br />
Tailors Clapper, where have you been all my LIFE?!!!<br />
<br />
I love top stitching, and it's a great way to keep seams flat and neat. But for this coat I really wanted a crisp look without top stitching and I so I asked the internet Gods how to achieve this; they came through.<br />
<br />
If you are wanting to get the cleanest, flattest seams then you absolutely have to invest in a tailors clapper. <br />
It honestly made a huge difference to just steam ironing and when you're using thick fabric like this 570gsm coating it's a must.<br />
<br />
When steam ironing your seams, you replace the iron immediately with the clapper and press it there for around 5 seconds. The wood absorbs the moisture from the steam and traps the heat into the fabric, rather than releasing the steam and heat into the air.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091665867/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091665867_54822657cc_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/48091666222/in/dateposted-public/" title="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Wool + Mohair Winter Coat by Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48091666222_4354b33949_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b></div>
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I'm not going to lie, thanks to this lining I've had 'Joseph and his amazing technicolour dream coat' stuck in my head on repeat. I may never be able to squash that ear worm and that's ok, because this coat makes it worth it.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I wanted a long coat, I wanted a warm coat, and I wanted one that would mimic a suit jacket. This coat has ticked all those boxes and I am thrilled that it was successful considering all the time I put into it.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
It's another reminder that you never regret taking the time with techniques and fit.</div>
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Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-42142428426304996362019-05-26T10:30:00.000+10:002019-05-26T10:30:50.184+10:00Leather Jacket #3 - BurdaStyle #108B<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
Before I started sewing, the number of leather garments that I owned was a big fat ZERO.<br />
<br />
Now I own two leather skirts, have plans for a pair of leather pants and have just finished making my THIRD leather jacket. <br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>The Pattern</b></span><br />
<br />
It's my second time around, with <a href="https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/biker-style-peplum-jacket-122015">BurdaStyle - Biker Style Peplum Jacket #108B</a><br />
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This pattern is so well drafted, has the perfect proportions for my body and is a wonderful pattern for sewing with leather as it has no darts and just princess seams.<br />
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This is a downloadable pattern from Burdastyle's website, so take note this pattern DOES NOT include seam allowances and the instructions that accompany the PDF download are very minimal.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927002187/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927002187_bab15e2f0f_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927002847/in/dateposted-public/" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927002847_0f88a5db12_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927002847/in/dateposted-public/" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><br /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927016261/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927016261_0662d8dd74_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Fabric</span></b><br />
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A stunning brown from <a href="https://www.leffler.com.au/">Leffler's Leather</a>. It's a sheep skin nappa, with a weight of 0.6-0.8 which gives such great shape to this jacket.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2016/12/the-leather-jacket-burdastyle-108b.html">I've made this jacket before in a black leather</a> which was slightly finer so the black jacket drapes a little differently.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927008156/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927008156_44d2b16c44_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927002562/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927002562_34101ab166_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927003437/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927003437_de7502668c_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Lining</span></b><br />
<br />
I kept looking for the 'right' lining for this jacket, and everything I found seemed to be missing the mark somehow.<br />
Then one day, while sorting through my silk scraps from previous projects I was struck with a sudden idea!<br />
I could use the left over silks and combine them together to make a beautiful lining, that was both resourceful and a lovely nod to my past projects!<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927006598/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927006598_6bc878b5cd_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927016141/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927016141_a144c335b1_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927014623/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927014623_5ae7c34f58_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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JACKET BACK - I used a green silk satin from <a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/">Tessuti </a>that was left over from my <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/04/the-evie-bias-skirt-tessuti-patterns.html">Evie Bias Skirt </a>pattern also by Tessuti Fabrics.<br />
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JACKET FRONT is lined with orange silk satin from <a href="https://www.instagram.com/theclothshopivanhoe/?hl=en">The Cloth Shop</a>, which I used for my <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/05/sadie-slip-dress-tessuti-patterns.html">Sadi Slip dress</a> (pattern by Tessuti Fabrics).<br />
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SLEEVES are lined with a blue silk remnant that I've had in my cupboard from the beginning of time.<br />
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I love how these patch together and add a feature to the jacket! It's economical, minimises waste, and looks so luscious!<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927010517/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927010517_a2192b6b46_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927003627/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927003627_ed71447440_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927013518/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927013518_5df64a0457_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Details</span></b><br />
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The zippers on this jacket give it an edgy look, with one at each of the sleeve hems and a separating zipper at the side front of the bodice.<br />
<br />
I had to shorten the centre zipper to fit the jacket but couldn't reattach the nickel zipper stops. After a lot of thought, I ended up sewing small little loops of leather onto the zipper tape to act as the stops and I love how clean it makes it look!<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927003077/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927003077_040ac5bf26_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927008511/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927008511_7d4192589f_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927015736/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927015736_1883c274cb_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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The peplum hem gives this piece great proportion and shape, without too much flounce.<br />
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I love the short collar along the neckline, which really completes the look.<br />
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The style of this jacket means you can change up the look by having the jacket done all the way up, half up with the lapels folded back, or completely unzipped for a relaxed look.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927005808/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927005808_ac7bbf123e_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927002457/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927002457_c6fa2d3c3e_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927006098/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927006098_28727017d6_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Changes</b></span><br />
<br />
The pattern recommends woven fabrics for version B with leather detailing on the shoulders and yoke. I omitted the extra shoulder pieces, which are appliquéd and made the whole jacket in leather.<br />
<br />
As with my other leather jackets, I added shoulder pads to give balance and proportion and I love how strong the shoulders look with it.<br />
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I didn't add any press studs because I like the sleekness of the finished look with just the zippers.<br />
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I added bias strips to the inside hems of the bodice and sleeves so that I had something to hand stitch the lining onto. Hand stitching directly onto leather is hard work and even with a thimble is very slow going. The little gold bias strips that were added to make hand stitching easier, also give the finished project that little bit of 'extra'.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927002332/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927002332_b62d01328d_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927003347/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927003347_8d585c1a58_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47927007048/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Brown Leather Jacket" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47927007048_8fca205742_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Tips for sewing with Leather</span></b><br />
<br />
If you've decided to give leather a go and are unsure about how much to buy, MY ADVICE is to take your pattern pieces with you to the store and lay them out on the leather hides.<br />
This way you can see exactly how many you need to buy.<br />
Leather is expensive and each hide is different, so this really helps you get exactly what you need for your project.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2018/02/the-leather-jacket-style-arc-eddie.html">CHECK OUT this post on my second leather jacket</a> which has a very detailed list (about half way down blog post) of SEWING TIPS for working with leather.<br />
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You can also check out my other leather garments below:<br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BnX1uBehYUK/" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none; word-wrap: break-word;" target="_blank">#sewphotohop Day 6 - SEASONAL FAVOURITE ✋ I know us Melbournians have a bit of a rep for being a little over sensitive about winter weather, but for reals you guys it’s cold, ok? Like I think Winterfell might actually be a south-east suburb here somewhere. And there’s a guy that works at my local pub who looks an awful lot like John Snow, so. In any case, my leather jacket(s!) got a workout this winter. In fact they may be my most worn me-mades ever. Pictured here in my tan leather jacket with the prettiest silk lining. It’s also a great jacket for transitioning into spring and goes with so many outfits. WIN! - - - #winteriscoming #sewin #sew #sewing #leatherjacket #jacket #melbourne</a></div>
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A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/juliabobbin/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px;" target="_blank"> Julia Bobbin</a> (@juliabobbin) on <time datetime="2018-09-06T05:12:33+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Sep 5, 2018 at 10:12pm PDT</time></div>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BwhGGW8Ay5f/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2019-04-21T12:11:24+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Apr 21, 2019 at 5:11am PDT</time></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
<br />
I am stoked with how this jacket turned out and I have already gotten so much wear out of it!<br />
<br />
The colour is versatile with the contents of my wardrobe, the shape is timeless and flattering, and every time I open my jacket I get a thrill of satisfaction when I see the colourful lining.<br />
<br />
This is my second successful leather jacket with this pattern and I get a feeling it won't be my last :)<br />
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<script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-3055658587537448992019-05-15T20:13:00.000+10:002019-10-24T21:30:45.488+11:00HARRY POTTER PJ'S! - Carolyn Pyjamas by Closet Case Patterns<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47802373982/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Harry Potter PJ's"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Harry Potter PJ's" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47802373982_5baf662de5_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47065059044/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Harry Potter PJ's"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Harry Potter PJ's" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47065059044_12f267d59d_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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Nothing says 'fashion' like a pair of home-made pyjamas. amiright.<br />
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BUT these ones are comfy, easy to make and cute as hell in a Harry Potter(!) print, so they're basically my uniform now.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern</span></b><br />
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The Carolyn pyjamas are a wonderful, <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/carolyn-pajama-sewing-pattern">detailed pattern from Closet Case Patterns</a> that features a shirt with two sleeve length options and bottoms that can be either pants or shorts.<br />
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I chose to make just the pants of this pattern as I rarely wear a whole pyjama set.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>The Fabric</b></span><br />
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The cutest 'Harry Potter' printed cotton in a quilting cotton. I purchased this from Spotlight in one of those 'I-don't-need-this-at-all-but-I-want-it' moments. It wasn't too long after that I realised they'd be perfect for a pair of PJ bottoms.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Details</span></b><br />
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I made the pants which are a straight-leg cut and have the option of a cuff at the hem, which I chose to omit.<br />
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It comes with an elasticised waistband, pockets and a faux fly front.<br />
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This quilting fabric is pretty stiff, and so I ended up letting out the side seams by about a centimetre to make them more comfortable.<br />
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I didn't make a toile first, because I figured they'd be loungewear and a little loose so it wasn't so important. The pattern sewed up a dream and the pattern instructions were well thought out and explained, as everything is from Closet Case Patterns.<br />
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In hindsight, I SHOULD HAVE done a 'full-butt-adjustment' or gone up a size, as the back centre waistband dipped down into a 'V' shape in the way that pants do when you've got a little extra 'stuffing' in there. But they are still comfy and I love them!<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47802378782/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Harry Potter PJ's"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Harry Potter PJ's" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47802378782_593de3f3f7_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47065062434/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Harry Potter PJ's"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Harry Potter PJ's" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47065062434_06a8b47902_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
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It's actually sort of embarrassing just how often I've worn these pants, and not always at bed time; they are just so comfortable!<br />
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I was pleasantly surprised in the fit of this pattern, as I assumed they'd be boxy and unflattering; they're meant for sleeping in after all.<br />
I'm happy to say I was wrong! I mean, it's a Closet Case Pattern so I should have known better :)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The classic -'Tear your pants' pose, but make it fashion.</td></tr>
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<br /></div>Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-76678927852423452572019-05-13T20:06:00.002+10:002019-05-13T20:06:41.681+10:00Floral Silk - A Rita Blouse Dress Hack<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47049944404/in/dateposted-public/" title="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47049944404_988c1bef89_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/32895609237/in/dateposted-public/" title="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32895609237_66a9f84b69_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47049945744/in/dateposted-public/" title="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47049945744_03325383a8_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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This dress was actually my first make of 2019 and guys, it's a PRINT! WHO EVEN AM I THIS YEAR??!!!<br />
<br />
I love prints, I truely do, but when I put fabric under a needle, inevitably it is a solid colour.<br />
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In fact, last year I made 19 garments and only ONE of them <i>sort</i> of qualified as a print. So I'm feeling VULNERABLE right now.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern</span></b><br />
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It's the <a href="https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=rita+blouse&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8">Rita Blouse by Charm Patterns</a> hacked into a dress. I've done it before in a bright red cotton seersucker which you can see below:<br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BrJxVpvnd7j/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" style="background: #FFFFFF; line-height: 0; padding: 0 0; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; width: 100%;" target="_blank">
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BrJxVpvnd7j/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none; word-wrap: break-word;" target="_blank">Ciao a tutti! 💃🏻💃🏻 Looking a bit #italian 🇮🇹 in my DRESS HACK of the #ritablouse by @gertie18 ✔️ traced pattern to waistline markings. ✔️converted darts to princess seams on my skirt pattern which I attached to the bodice to make a dress pattern. ✔️comfortable cotton seersucker ✔️ added flounce to hemline ✔️side zipper and different pattern pieces for cup size B-DD. . THIS dress is quick and comfortable. So expect to see this in a million different colours this summer. K thanks. . . . #thelittlereddressproject #reddress #sewing #sewersofinstagram #memade #charmpatterns #hack #offtheshoulder</a></div>
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A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/juliabobbin/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px;" target="_blank"> Julia Bobbin</a> (@juliabobbin) on <time datetime="2018-12-09T04:10:29+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Dec 8, 2018 at 8:10pm PST</time></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47787417672/in/dateposted-public/" title="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47787417672_9b19e58e3b_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47787418632/in/dateposted-public/" title="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47787418632_9e081cda38_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Fabric</span></b><br />
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My sister recently got married and for her hen's (bachelorette) night, the theme was floral. I love a good theme and decided to make my own dress.<br />
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I had this beautiful, delicate silk chiffon in my stash that seemed perfect, but being chiffon it was super sheer and thin.<br />
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I decided to underline it with a cotton poplin to give it body and stop it from being see-through and it worked a treat! The poplin also helped the colour of the silk look even more vibrant.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47839531471/in/dateposted-public/" title="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47839531471_f700fd90e4_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47049944544/in/dateposted-public/" title="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47049944544_0c9e87841c_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Details</span></b><br />
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This dress is underlined but not lined. It closes with an invisible zipper down the side seam and is finished with a flounce at the hem.<br />
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The bodice is gathered under the bust and centre back yoke, and shaped with ELASTIC around the neckline.<br />
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The SLEEVES can be worn on or off the shoulders depending on the look or mood.<br />
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I added a few SOFT PLEATS to the centre front of the bodice yoke to give the neckline more of a sweetheart shape.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47049943894/in/dateposted-public/" title="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47049943894_1326004e03_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47049945404/in/dateposted-public/" title="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47049945404_502d6a54e8_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47049944884/in/dateposted-public/" title="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47049944884_f7653bbc64_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
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This dress feels light and comfortable, but has that glamorous touch that gives the garment that little 'extra'.<br />
It has already become one of my most worn me-mades and is the perfect 'day to night' transition dress.<br />
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Here's to more printed fabrics in my future!<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47049945234/in/dateposted-public/" title="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47049945234_ea8eb720b7_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/47049947974/in/dateposted-public/" title="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Floral Rita Dress Hack - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47049947974_927a4d885d_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
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Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-83924305187282222582019-05-07T10:41:00.000+10:002019-05-07T10:41:49.767+10:00Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns<div style="text-align: center;">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/46996034594/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46996034594_5ab4a6db5a_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/46996031694/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46996031694_81840c97e0_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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If there was a hierarchy of luxury fabrics, bias cut silk must sit somewhere at the top.<br />
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This new little dress ticks all the boxes:<br />
<ul>
<li>comfy</li>
<li>glam</li>
<li>easy to make</li>
</ul>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern</span></b></div>
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It's the Sadie Slip Dress by Tessuti Patterns.</div>
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This classic dress is cut on the bias for a form flattering, loose fitting style that can be both dressed up or down.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/46996029514/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46996029514_7f093f092a_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/40819121473/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40819121473_96f87f54c6_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/46996030054/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46996030054_f0f011efd4_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Fabric</span></b></div>
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This dress is made with a stunning silk satin from <a href="https://www.instagram.com/theclothshopivanhoe/?hl=en">The Cloth Shop, Ivanhoe</a></div>
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It's glossy, moves like water and is such a vibrant orange.</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Details</span></b></div>
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I enclosed the seam allowance in delicate french seams and hemmed the dress with a narrow hem.</div>
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Thin silk spaghetti straps hold the dress together at the shoulders, with a scooped neck back, and a v-neck shaped front.<br />
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I shortened this dress from it's gorgeous midi length, as I was making it as part of a 'copy-cat' celebrity look - see Rihanna challenge below.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/40819120773/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40819120773_c9eaaa1d32_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/46996030604/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46996030604_7c61cf8d6c_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/46996030914/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - Sadie Slip Dress - Tessuti Patterns" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46996030914_95f4ffee08_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Rihanna Challenge</span></b></div>
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The most fabulous <a href="https://www.instagram.com/faithstjules/">Faith St Juliette</a> and I were chatting about how much we love Rihanna and her ever changing, fierce style. We decided it would be fun to try and recreate one of her looks.</div>
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I made this dress as part of that challenge and wore it with my <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/04/simplicity-8749-mimi-g-style-linen.html">Mimi G oversized jacket, Simplicity 8749 which I blogged about here.</a></div>
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You can check out the instagram post below to see the inspiration pic:</div>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BwvGf0ygnz3/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Julia Bobbin (@juliabobbin)</a> on <time datetime="2019-04-26T22:44:15+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Apr 26, 2019 at 3:44pm PDT</time></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
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I'm so happy with how this dress turned out!<br />
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This style of dress is different to what I normally wear and throughout the making of this dress I had been full of doubts. I was convinced it wouldn't look any good on me; I pretty much never wear orange and I was worried bias cut silk might look unflattering on my curvy frame. But as it so happens with sewing, the moment the hem is done and the final stitch stitched, it all came together and I'm so pleased with the final look!<br />
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I love it dressed down with sneakers, or glammed up with heals and a coat. This dress is also super comfy and makes me feel fancy without going to too much effort; win!</div>
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Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-2839242532902958652019-05-03T11:20:00.002+10:002019-05-03T11:20:25.245+10:00Jenna Dress - By Hand London<div style="text-align: center;">
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<br />
Wait, what is this??!! Julia Bobbin back in a vintage inspired dress? WHO'S THIS?!!!<br />
<br />
I recently had the pleasure and honour of pattern testing a new dress for By Hand London and I'm so excited to finally share it with you in all it's emerald glory<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern</span></b><br />
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<a href="https://byhandlondon.com/products/jenna-dress-pdf-sewing-pattern">'The Jenna Dress'</a> from By Hand London, now available from their website!<br />
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This dress is an empire line dress with a bias cut skirt in two lengths. It features two different necklines; a low square neck or a jewel neck with optional peter-pan collar and also comes with two sleeve options: short sleeves or the prettiest little tie cuffs.<br />
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I chose Variation 1 with the square neck and tie cuffs, but all versions are interchangeable with each other.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/32817125897/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - JENNA dress - By Hand London"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - JENNA dress - By Hand London" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32817125897_ddf07bef13_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Fabric</span></b><br />
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Because of the bias cut of the skirt, this pattern works great with draped fabrics such as soft silks, lightweight cottons and rayon. However I decided to go rogue and use a structured silk organza because I am all about that transparent life and I thought it could look really striking in an unexpected textile.<br />
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I used the most stunning emerald silk organza from <a href="https://www.instagram.com/theclothshopivanhoe/?hl=en">The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe</a> and I just love how the different layers of organza create the most beautiful variations in colour.<br />
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Because of the transparency of this dress, I wore it with a purchased slip dress underneath.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Details</span></b><br />
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This dress takes me back to one of my favourite eras for fashion, the 60's.<br />
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Generally I tend to avoid empire cut dresses. They typically tend to hide my waistline and with my hour glass figure, hiding the smallest part of my body can sometimes make me look like a block.<br />
However with this skirt being bias cut, it still shapes the waistline and flatters the figure, and would be even more exaggerated in a drapey fabric.<br />
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I love the tie details on the sleeves. It's such a pretty and delicate detail to add that elevates the dress from a pretty one to a gorgeous one.<br />
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The dress closes with an invisible zipper down the centre back and has a lined bodice which I lined with the same organza fabric.<br />
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Where possible, I finished the seams with french seams and overlocked the sleeve seams.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/32817125457/in/dateposted-public/" title="Julia Bobbin - JENNA dress - By Hand London"><img alt="Julia Bobbin - JENNA dress - By Hand London" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32817125457_fc265a6190_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
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This is such a beautifully put together pattern with exceptional attention to detail in the instructions. This pattern is versatile and easily adaptable and I'm already imagining version 2 in a silk velvet!<br />
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The team at By Hand London have put a lot of love into this pattern and it shows.<br />
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Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7252155843239152686.post-8914053448219508152019-04-30T14:28:00.001+10:002019-05-08T09:16:11.813+10:00Simplicity 8749 - Mimi G Style - Linen Jacket<div style="text-align: center;">
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FACT: One can never have too many jackets.<br />
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We wear them for warmth and for comfort; to transition from inside to outside or to accommodate the fluctuation in temperatures in the one day (I'm looking at you, Melbourne).<br />
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Jackets also act as a style remedy. You could be wearing a basic look, you throw on a fancy jacket and TAH-DA! - instant style!<br />
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Here is my latest jacket and stylish addition to my wardrobe:<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Pattern</span></b><br />
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It's <a href="https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/women/sportswear/simplicity-sewing-pattern-8749-misseswomens-mimi-g-style-coat-and-pants/">Simplicity 8749 by Mimi G Style Patterns</a> in View C (the shorter length).<br />
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I love everything Mimi G wears and designs and it was only a matter of time before I tried out this pattern for myself.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/40761925753/in/dateposted-public/" style="text-align: start;" title="Simplicity 8749 - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Simplicity 8749 - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40761925753_d608c27202_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/40761935623/in/dateposted-public/" style="text-align: start;" title="Simplicity 8749 - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Simplicity 8749 - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40761935623_4af83a6443_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Fabric</span></b><br />
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I made this jacket with a heavyweight linen from <a href="https://www.thefabricstore.com.au/">The Fabric Store</a> in a cream.<br />
I lined my make with a beautiful floral rayon that I purchased from Spotlight many, many years ago.<br />
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I absolutely love to add a fun lining to a jacket, especially when the fabric on the outside of the jacket is a neutral. It's like a little burst of joy every time I open my jacket.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/40761933913/in/dateposted-public/" style="text-align: start;" title="Simplicity 8749 - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Simplicity 8749 - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40761933913_1b45cc5b62_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/40761936793/in/dateposted-public/" title="Simplicity 8749 - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Simplicity 8749 - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40761936793_4763fd61ee_b.jpg" width="624" /></a><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/32785113547/in/dateposted-public/" title="Simplicity 8749 - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Simplicity 8749 - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32785113547_1b727b321d_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Details</span></b><br />
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This fully lined jacket features lapels and flap pockets (pockets!) and is all my 90's oversized blazer dreams come true.<br />
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The pattern gives the option of two different jacket lengths, has two piece sleeves and closes with one button down the centre front.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56159443@N03/33851393408/in/dateposted-public/" style="text-align: start;" title="Simplicity 8749 - Julia Bobbin"><img alt="Simplicity 8749 - Julia Bobbin" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33851393408_6fb47f24ff_b.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Changes</span></b><br />
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I omitted the interfacing, which is a little unorthodox, but I figured the jacket had a more<br />
'relaxed' look with the linen, and didn't need the extra structure.<br />
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I made no changes to the fit (what?!!) and made the whole jacket in a straight 14.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Rihanna Challenge</span></b><br />
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My friend <a href="https://www.instagram.com/faithstjules/?hl=en">Faith</a> and I were chatting one night, bonding over our shared love of Rihanna and her ever changing style! We came up with the idea of setting ourselves a Rihanna fashion challenge where we would choose one of her looks and recreate it!<br />
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I originally made this jacket as part of my Rihanna 'copy-cat' look, which you can see below. <a href="http://www.juliabobbin.com/2019/05/sadie-slip-dress-tessuti-patterns.html">You can read the blog post about the Sadie Slip Dress by Tessuti Patterns here.</a><br />
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Click through on the instagram post to see the inspiration pic!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Final Thoughts</span></b><br />
<br />
I love how this jacket turned out! This style can work so well dressed down with jeans and a tee, or dressed up with heals and a skirt.<br />
Thanks Mimi G for another wonderful pattern!<br />
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Julia Bobbinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06259552696779501230noreply@blogger.com0